cv axle shaft wont drop out!

Eacook1

New member
I have a 93 v6 4runner. I am in the middle of replacing the right front axle. All the nuts at the diff connection are off. The shaft is completely loose. Its like a puzzle though. No matter which way I try to rotate the flange on the diff verses the flange on the axle I can not get it to drop out. it is hanging up on the studs that are still in the flange on the diff side. I have tried turning the steering wheel every which way, thinking it might help but no such luck.

Is there a trick to getting this thing to drop out?

Are the studs on the flange of the differential removable? I tried to break them loose to no avail.

Evan
 
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You need to get a very long prybar and get it under the C/V housing and pry against the trans housing. Give it a hard, snapping motion to pop it loose.
 
Just to make sure we're on the same page. The two flanges are already separated and loose. The cv flange is completely off of the diff flange. It's just stuck on the ends of the studs and I can't pull it down. You think I can just pry it out? I was picking up parts at the dealer and the service guy said to pop the upper ball joint loose.
 
You have to turn on and tune in before you can drop out. :p

Pry it off or hammer the studs out with a long bar.
 
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They are indeed a PITA. I had the same issue when I dropped my IFS out. Just takes a very long pry bar, some good cussing, and a dab of elbow grease.
 
Yeah, those are a righteous PITA. I've done it with a prybar. I've also done it by using a ratchet strap around the CV and spindle to compress it enough to clear the studs, and I've done it by unbolting the upper ball joint to allow the spindle to move outboard, which has the same effect. One thing that doesn't work is laying under the truck and swearing a blue streak at it for two hours - you can't hurt it's feelings, it has no feelings. It also doesn't work to dramatically throw your hands up in the air and go drink a beer, and that almost always works. Not on this one, it'll still be a PITA when you come back.

Once you've got it out, follow up by pulling the axle shaft from the diff and replacing the studs with bolts. It makes the job 10x easier for next time, and is a good excuse to change your diff oil. :)
 
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Take those studs out! Now! When you put the new one in, replace those studs with grade 8 bolts!

C'mon man. My 13 year old son pulled it off on his own. LOL!
 
I just replaced both front axles last week without removing any studs or using a pry bar.. The trick is using a Jack stand under the rear end on the opposite side of your work. This allows the front suspension to be compressed enough to have the angle of the axle nearly perpendicular to the ground. It's all about the geometry! I did have to tap the bottom shock bolt out of the way & remove the sway bar mount from the control arm. Hope this helps!
 
:withstupid:

This is how I've always done except I put the jack under the a-arm. Same concept though. You want to get the mounting ends as far away from each other as possible. The cv joints need to be straight not angled. I have never needed to remove the studs or pry them out with excessive force.
 
:withstupid:

This is how I've always done except I put the jack under the a-arm. Same concept though. You want to get the mounting ends as far away from each other as possible. The cv joints need to be straight not angled. I have never needed to remove the studs or pry them out with excessive force.

Exactly, I was assuming there was one under there already!
 
One thing that doesn't work is laying under the truck and swearing a blue streak at it for two hours - you can't hurt it's feelings, it has no feelings. It also doesn't work to dramatically throw your hands up in the air and go drink a beer, and that almost always works.


:lmao: This describes me to a "T" on Wednesday.

The runner is still sitting in the garage waiting for me. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have a few things to try now before I pop the ball joint loose.
 
hyhura8e.jpg


Success! I just used a jack under that wheel. Had to jack it up a little, turn the wheel just right and the line up the flanges just right and it came out. Just like a puzzle. I just hope I can get the new one back in.
 
So the FSM says to use Molybdenum Disulphide lithium based grease on the outboard shaft joint where the outer shaft rides in the hub.....I only have heavy-duty wheel bearing grease or a multipurpose white lithium based grease. What do you guys think? Should I head to the store to get that exact grease?
 
Hows it riding now?

Everything seems good with the axles. I like the shocks too. Made the front feel a lot more solid and there isn't so much body roll. I haven't put it in to 4wd yet because I have a bad solenoid or switch or something and it won't engage....that's a whole other issue though.
 

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