CV Boot pulling back?

[Schamattack]

Hello guys, need your opinion. I noticed doing a visual check on the truck today my passenger CV axle boot looks like this:

Seems the small clamp on the larger inside boot isn't holding. I can take it and move it back and forth. It seems to stay in this position when driving. I have 2 long drives coming up across state in the next two following weekends and would like to get your guys opinions if it safe to drive on. I just dont have time to take this in or replace myself before I leave this Friday. I dont hear any odd noises from it besides a clunking noise going over bumps (Sway bar bushing I believe). I dont see any wet grease around it either.

 

[metramm]

You should be fine with driving on it the way that it is. Both of mine were torn and I did a 1500+ mile round trip without any issues. (I changed both axles out when I got home).

Check to see if there is still grease in the boot. If there is, you should be fine for a while until it starts to click. That is usually when people recommend to change them out.

Mine were not clicking at any point when I was driving, but after we pulled the axles out, it was clear that they were shot and were clicking in our hands when moving the knuckle around.

There are guides here that show you how to replace the CV axles as well. It wasn't too difficult to do.

Good luck!

 

[TowMeOut]

Both of mine were puking grease after a very modest lift. I wrapped the ends over top of the clamps with a bit of the self-vulcanizing silicone tape (rescue tape or the stuff from Harbor Freight). Then I added a zip tie or two for good measure. This was almost a year ago and it's still holding strong....

 

[Schamattack]

Both of mine were puking grease after a very modest lift. I wrapped the ends over top of the clamps with a bit of the self-vulcanizing silicone tape (rescue tape or the stuff from Harbor Freight). Then I added a zip tie or two for good measure. This was almost a year ago and it's still holding strong....

Do you think duct tape will work? Its all I got laying around :/

 

[TowMeOut]

200mph tape....why not. It's basically a temporary fix to keep some of the dirt out and remaining grease in. I actually bought some new clamps and planned to just remove the old, install the new. The closer I looked though I believe adding the clamps would just cut throught the old rubber.

I plan to just nurse what's there until I decide to do more lift or they start clicking, whichever comes first.

 

[Schamattack]

It def looks wet inside like greasy but I cant really tell how much is left. This is just pulling back on the part that is loose.

 

[blackoutt]

replace the clamps with marine style stainless steel worm drive clamps. Clean the shaft really well, and tighten! Marine style is important because they have rounded edges and don't cut into the boot. There's a thread somewhere about the CV boot mod, pulling the boot down on lifted t4r's and using these clamps, with correct sizes and part numbers from mcmaster.

 

[jdc62]

Had a similar issue with my driver side CV joint this past summer. I removed the old band and replaced with a new one using this tool.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4623-Joint-Banding-Cutter/dp/B00063XX5U You might be able to find one at an auto parts store. The tool allows you to tighten the clamp using a socket wrench and also cuts off the exec after folding the loose end of the band.

I was able to get a replacement band at a local auto parts store for less than two dollars but you can also order one from Amazon. The job only took about 15 minutes and the result was factory quality. I also injected some CV joint grease using a dental syringe to replace some of the grease I had lost.

 

[BackOff]

I just cheezed it and set the band clamp, from Orilieys, on top of the OEM band and cinched it down, has held for the last year, no more leaking.

Can sand the edges of any band clamp, to round them a bit, so as not to cut the boot...if you pull the OEM band as others have done.