CV joint housing

[woodster22]

I have a 2004 Runner and I'm replacing the right drive axle but cannot get the CV joint housing free from the differential. I've read that both prying and hammering with a brass drift are options, but I wan't to make sure I won't do any damage to the differential. Also, the manual reccommends draining the differential fluid, but I can't do that due to a practically welded shut drain plug. I wanted to make sure that there wasn't a vacuum being created by not being able to drain it? Any suggestions or experience?

 

[762x51]

There is more than likely not a vacume, sometimes CV's are a pain in the ass. If you look on the new CV you will see a C clip retaining device. Right now that is what you are fighting trying to get it out. I like to use a prybar and "pop" the cv out. Basically instead of putting a constant pressure on the bar, try and pop it. Its kinda hard to explain, let me know if that makes sense.

 

[woodster22]

Yeah, I see what you're saying. I knew that there was a retaining ring to battle but I wasn't sure how much I needed to force it. I'm taking home a bigger pry bar tonight and I'll give it a pop. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Dogs-N-Trucks]

MMMMMMMM bigger pry bar. :biggrin2: I'll be doing this job very soon, I will make sure my 4 footer is within reach. The "popping" suggestion seems to work more of the time than the constant pressure approach, think impact gun versus wrench on nut. I usually start with lighter persuasion and ramp up the effort till the immovable object moves just so I ain't ripping **** up right off the bat.

 

[wakedude]

Just did this job last weekend

I ran into the same trouble you are experiencing last weekend when I replaced both of my front CV axels. For me, I was able to get the housing out by using a crow bar wedged between the axel housing and the case and then hitting the crow bar in the direction away from the case with a dead blow hammer a few times. This worked for me on both sides. As for the stuck drain plug, try heating the case and nut with a torch and then using some ice to cool off just the nut before torquing on it. That should help unseize the nut. You don't need to drain the oil to get the job done, but I would recommend it if you can. You need to at least be able to get the filler plug open because you will lose gear oil when you pull the CV Axel out.

Are you replacing just the boots or are you replacing the full axel? I was surprised to find that I could buy a complete brand new axel with lifetime warranty at O'Reilly AutoParts for $70 when the boot kit from Toyota was $40. For the additional $30 you can save yourself a ton of time and work.

 

[woodster22]

I was able to pry the housing loose last night. I thought about heating the drain plug, so I'll give that a try. Yeah, I went with a whole new axle. Replacing the boot seemed like too much trouble and you're right about it not being much cheaper. Did you have any problems getting the new axles into the differential? I was wondering if the metal snap ring gave much resistence.

 

[settytb]

Hope my write up can help... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html just trying to share some of my knowledge and pain

 

[settytb]

I did have some problems getting it in....but once i went really big on the hammer...think 10 lb sledge...then light on the hits it went in really easy. The smaller hammer just wasn't cutting it. So go big on the hammer and soft on the hits. And you need a long pry bar like 36 inches or so. It makes it WAY easier. I went to harbor freight and got one for like 15 bucks, after an hour of trying to get it in. Made all the difference in the world. Good luck!

 

[wakedude]

I was able to pry the housing loose last night. I thought about heating the drain plug, so I'll give that a try. Yeah, I went with a whole new axle. Replacing the boot seemed like too much trouble and you're right about it not being much cheaper. Did you have any problems getting the new axles into the differential? I was wondering if the metal snap ring gave much resistence.

Just make sure the opening of the snap ring is facing down. I was able to get it to snap in with a rubber dead blow mallet without too much trouble.