cylinder # 1 missfire gremlin

curt4x4

New member
2000 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 w/ 3.4L
I've got a mean gremlin that i've been chasing under the hood for a month or so. wondering if anyone who enjoys diagnosing someone else's problems for free wanted to chime in.

Timing belt & WP replaced 12K miles ago. Heads replaced 6K miles ago after a gasket leak. Was running good since. Going up a slight grade on interstate (70mph) when the intake/exhaust note suddenly changed and there was a noticeable lose of power.
Check engine light comes on and off during driving, but condition stays the same.
Below 2,500 RPM it is very sluggish. Once to 3K it picks up power but I think it is just getting back into its power band.
I’ve unplugged the battery several times to reset the computer and the codes continually come back, “cylinder 1 misfire” & “random misfire” each time.
Ran several cans of injector cleaner through it and also replaced the fuel filter. No change.
I changed cylinder 1 spark plug and also the coil pack. No change.
I replaced the cylinder 1 injector. (really thought this was the culprit after reading other posts on simmilar problems)No change.
The passenger side fuel rail pipe was free of obstructions.
Sprayed brake cleaner around most vacuum lines and intake and didn’t notice any changes in idle.
Hooked a vacuum gauge onto an intake port and at idle had a varying reading of 17 to 16 psi that would drop to 15 when the engine stumbled hard.
Piston is not steam cleaned like they were when the head gaskets went out.

I was out of ideas so i took it to the mechanic that did the head job. he checked for signal to the coil pack
swapped coils & plugs around
checked for signal to the injector
ran compression check on it- 25 psi lower than #3 & 5. wasn't sure of the cause, but didn't think that this was bad enough to cause a miss.
ran a leak down test on the cylinder- no leaks

he has not done the following yet:
checked fuel pressure
checked for proper operation of the cam and crank position sensors
but is running out of ideas himself.

any thoughts or ideas on my problem?
Thanks,
 
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Not once have you mentioned plug wires. This is a big red flag for me; new wires have solved this for many posters.
 
lower compression from a valve out of adjustment? I had that happen and had a misfire on #4. had the valve re-shimmed and it was good to go
 
# 1 has a coil pack on top of it

I know that--but it is a series circuit with the #4 plug and a high resistance wire won't do #1 any good. I'd at least ohm out the wire, 25KΩ is the max.

Also, spec is 15psi diff between cylinders, if #1 is low by 25psi and spark is weak due to a high res wire, that could be the reason a for a fail on #1 and not on #4.

What were the actual compression numbers? 145 psi is minimum. #1 must be close if it is 25 psi lower.
 
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No leak on the leak down test? That's not right either. Every motor is going to have some leakage. Posting the compression numbers may help. But I would tend to agree with J-money that it could be quite possible your valve adjustment is out of spec. Especially since you said the heads were replaced.
 
thanks for the good info guys. I've passed the valve adjustment and PW resistance ideas to the mechanic. he said #3 & 5 were around 150psi and #1 was at 135psi. may be an easy answer that i should know but how would a mal-adjusted valve reduce compression? not close at optimum time and therefore allow some volume to escape during compression stroke?
 
More likely it would not be closing completely. (not enough clearance between the cam love and top of the lifter/shim) 135-150 is with in spec (not off by more than 10%). But that's assuming 150 was your highest reading. 145 is suppose to be minimum but I believe that's when new. The more important thing is that there is no more than 10% difference between your highest and lowest compression number.
 
thanks for the good info guys. I've passed the valve adjustment and PW resistance ideas to the mechanic. he said #3 & 5 were around 150psi and #1 was at 135psi. may be an easy answer that i should know but how would a mal-adjusted valve reduce compression? not close at optimum time and therefore allow some volume to escape during compression stroke?

Shouldnt theses be closer to 200#s? 135 is low. Start with the sticky rings and try seafoam top end cleaning, then move to the valve adjustment.
 
Shouldnt theses be closer to 200#s? 135 is low. Start with the sticky rings and try seafoam top end cleaning, then move to the valve adjustment.

Agree. It's not 200, it's 174, but 135 is low, new or not.Per FSM:

Compression pressure:
1,200 kPa (12.2 kgf/cm2, 174 psi) or more
Minimum pressure: 1,000 kPa (10.2 kgf/cm2, 145 psi)
Difference between each cylinder:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 15 psi) or less

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/em5vzfe/compr/insp.pdf
 

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