Dagnabit -- License plate light screws

chester4Run

New member
Something to add to the list for new 4Runner owners -- change your license plate light screws to stainless (4 screws).

Mine were badly corroded and when I went to replace a bulb I had extract one of them the hard way. I pushed too hard with extraction bit and snapped off the plastic tab it fastens too up inside. Now I get to replace that whole plastic piece, so it looks like I need to disassemble the tail gate.

Those factory screws were all badly corroded to the point that the heads were completely or nearly gone.
 
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The screws from the dealership are usually low quality, which is a funny place to skimp. My father has been a used car manager for many years and I always found it funny how every time I buy a new (see "used") car, the first thing out of his mouth is, "Go to Lowe's and get stainless screws." They really do work.
 
Ace Hardware had a nice selection of plate bolts in all sizes and materials in their nut/bolt/washer section. It's in one of the little pull out trays.
 
I believe the OP is referring to the screws securing the lenses for the license plate lights. But it is also important to use stainless bolts on the actual license plate(s), along with a license plate frame that doesn't rust. If the frame isn't plastic or aluminum, it doesn't last one Ohio winter for me.
 
What size replacements?

I had similar problem when I replaced one of the light bulbs last fall. Pushed the tab up, and it's kind of out of line now.

I wanted to replace the screws, but what size? If you did, then do you recall what size screws? Did you get stainless replacements at hardware store/big box/marine supply?

Thanks.
--
Dave
2012 red Trail Edition
 
I had similar problem when I replaced one of the light bulbs last fall. Pushed the tab up, and it's kind of out of line now.

I wanted to replace the screws, but what size? If you did, then do you recall what size screws? Did you get stainless replacements at hardware store/big box/marine supply?

Thanks.
--
Dave
2012 red Trail Edition

I used stainless sheet metal screws from Ace. I don't recall the size, but it's easy to match against the screws you have. It's going into plastic, so mostly just make sure the head isn't much larger than OEM.
 
I believe the OP is referring to the screws securing the lenses for the license plate lights. But it is also important to use stainless bolts on the actual license plate(s), along with a license plate frame that doesn't rust. If the frame isn't plastic or aluminum, it doesn't last one Ohio winter for me.

Confirmed. I'm talking about the lights above the license plate, specifically the screws that hold them in. I also have stainless screws in the license plate and this silicone license plate holder. Since it has a back and is nice and soft, there is no scratching and no rattle when you close the hatch.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV5PLFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
If you can find new stainless screws for the clear bulb cover great, if not remove screws and coat with fluid film or the like to prevent corrosion and decay. I should pull my bulb cover screws and practice what I preach. :) I had this issue on a 3rd gen and I can see my 5th gen screws getting rusty.
 
Something to add to the list for new 4Runner owners -- change your license plate light screws to stainless (4 screws).

Mine were badly corroded and when I went to replace a bulb I had extract one of them the hard way. I pushed too hard with extraction bit and snapped off the plastic tab it fastens too up inside. Now I get to replace that whole plastic piece, so it looks like I need to disassemble the tail gate.

Those factory screws were all badly corroded to the point that the heads were completely or nearly gone.

Were you able to find just the plastic clips to replace or did you have to replace the whole plastic piece? Just did the same thing yesterday...
 
Frustrated but fixed - license plate light screws - 5th Gen 4runner

keep in mind I am not the most mechanically inclined but I really wanted to fix this without going to the dealer. Based on my web searches/experiences - this might help someone.

1. I tried the 'spray with rust lubricant over multiple days' - NO LUCK
2. I tried (bought a dremel) the cut a slot for a flat screwdriver (and I mucked up the screw heads) - NO LUCK
3. I tried the 'drill it out' method even bought a new drill bit - these are from what I read 'iron screws' - I was not able to get them to drill out - NO LUCK
4. I tried the heat the screw up (and I mucked up the lens during this process) - NO LUCK
5. I ended up cutting the plastic lens out and was able to get a vice grip type wrench on the screws and they came out.

I replaced the lens with LED lens that plug into the light bulb slots.

I used #8 stainless screw self tapping screws

Keep in mind
- the screws 'tap' into plastic NOT a metal clip
- the plastic 'tabs' on the rear garnish that you screw the lens into isnt 'strong' the 'outside' screws plastic receiving ends are the weaker of the 2 points of contact
- careful dremeling as I ended up with a big of collateral damage due to lack of dremel skill and lack of patience

Hope someone finds this useful
 

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I replaced the rusted screws from the license plate light assembly with cheapo stainless from Amazon.
Size is #8 x 5/8”.
The heads on these were a bit oversized so I ground them a bit using a drill and a file.
After a couple years, even the cheapo stainless have a few minor rust spots.
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