Dash/heat/windows dead

Myrunr2010

Myrunr2010

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This morning, right as I was getting ready to park my vehicle to go in and vote, I noticed that my battery light came on. While I was waiting in line I started thinking how could I tell if it was battery or alternator related. I have a scan gauge, so the plan was to switch it to VLT when I got back in the car and see how much the alternator was pushing out. I replaced the alternator ~2 years ago due to a bad voltage regulator.

When I got into the car (97 manual 3.4), I noticed that I had no gauges on the dash (clock still worked though). None of them came on or moved (well, I can’t tell the gas one). Also can’t roll down my front 4 windows (back window still rolls down), or turn on the heat (front or rear). The scan gauge was dark for the first little bit of my drive in to work, and then it came on. I usually have it set to MPG, but it wasn’t showing anything for that. It would give me VLT, which was showing 11.9, it gave me RPMs but not MPH.

I’m thinking I have a fuse burnt out at a minimum, which I believe would cause all of the dash to be out, and potentially the alternator going again? Or could a fuse cause bad readings on the alternator?

Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
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Myrunr2010 said:
This morning, right as I was getting ready to park my vehicle to go in and vote, I noticed that my battery light came on. While I was waiting in line I started thinking how could I tell if it was battery or alternator related. I have a scan gauge, so the plan was to switch it to VLT when I got back in the car and see how much the alternator was pushing out. I replaced the alternator ~2 years ago due to a bad voltage regulator.

When I got into the car (97 manual 3.4), I noticed that I had no gauges on the dash (clock still worked though). None of them came on or moved (well, I can’t tell the gas one). Also can’t roll down my front 4 windows (back window still rolls down), or turn on the heat (front or rear). The scan gauge was dark for the first little bit of my drive in to work, and then it came on. I usually have it set to MPG, but it wasn’t showing anything for that. It would give me VLT, which was showing 11.9, it gave me RPMs but not MPH.

I’m thinking I have a fuse burnt out at a minimum, which I believe would cause all of the dash to be out, and potentially the alternator going again? Or could a fuse cause bad readings on the alternator?

Thoughts? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Except for the windows, it points to the 10A gauge fuse. But heck, you most likely have a connection issue. Just start "checking" fuses with a meter or lamp.
 
Myrunr2010 said:
Connection issue?

Would that be one of the fuses under the dash or under the hood?
Click to expand...

Sadly there is no silver bullet I can give you here. This requires diagnostic work, not just a google search. But if it's any help, I'd start at the battery and work toward the engine bay fuse block. The two problems you described don't share common power sources unless you go all the way to the battery. My opinion, and that is all it is at this point, is that the windows are unrelated to the charging issue.
 
IBallEngineer said:
Sadly there is no silver bullet I can give you here. This requires diagnostic work, not just a google search. But if it's any help, I'd start at the battery and work toward the engine bay fuse block. The two problems you described don't share common power sources unless you go all the way to the battery. My opinion, and that is all it is at this point, is that the windows are unrelated to the charging issue.
Click to expand...

I think the immediate issue is the charging system. I can deal without rpm/mph if need be, but I don't wanna kill my battery.

....I hate diagnosing electrical issues...
 
IBallEngineer said:
Except for the windows, it points to the 10A gauge fuse. But heck, you most likely have a connection issue. Just start "checking" fuses with a meter or lamp.
Click to expand...

Windows uses GAUGE to tell if the truck is on. So yeah, GAUGE fuse.

GAUGE is also one of the direct connections to the plug on the alternator, so it could well have caused that ALT light, too. The alternator needs GAUGE power to excite, does not excite, so does not produce juice, light comes on. So yeah, GAUGE fuse, one stop shopping for all that ails you.

If you run up the rpms, the alt. may well self-excite and the light will go out. That would just confirm the diagnosis.

PS. Don't just LOOK at the fuse. Swap in a new one or, better, one that you know works and put the new one there.
 
Last edited:
TheDurk said:
Windows uses GAUGE to tell if the truck is on. So yeah, GAUGE fuse.

GAUGE is also one of the direct connections to the plug on the alternator, so it could well have caused that ALT light, too. The alternator needs GAUGE power to excite, does not excite, so does not produce juice, light comes on. So yeah, GAUGE fuse, one stop shopping.
Click to expand...

Replaced GUAGE fuse and it all works again now. Must have a short in my aux lights though because as soon as I put it in reverse again it blew the fuse.
 
Well good to see my instinct was correct on the 10A gauge fuse, but I guess at 6:30 AM I didn't look at how that fuse was tied in to the body ECU. The window EWD doesn't show it being involved, and that was all my 5 minute diagnosis allowed for! Luckily Ol' trusty, I mean Ol' Rusty was here to back me up!

:thumb:
 
IBallEngineer said:
Well good to see my instinct was correct on the 10A gauge fuse, but I guess at 6:30 AM I didn't look at how that fuse was tied in to the body ECU. The window EWD doesn't show it being involved, and that was all my 5 minute diagnosis allowed for! Luckily Ol' trusty, I mean Ol' Rusty was here to back me up!

:thumb:
Click to expand...

Former Rusty!
 
I appreciate yalls help! Wouldn't have really known where to start. Now I've just got to start tracing my aux light wiring to figure out where the issue is, and maybe figure out a way to prevent it in the future!
 
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