Daytime running lights without the headlights?

redstar

New member
So I'm about to start an HID retrofit(FX-R 3.0, potted Denso ballasts, etc...) but I just found out that I'm one of the lucky few with the "special" DRL module. I'd like to seperate the headlights from the DRL's cause I don't want my HID's to be my DRL's.

From what I've seen in the FSM, all I have to do is chop the wire from pin 1 of the DRL module(D8) and extend that wire to a new set of DRL's(LED's most likely) and then wire the other end of the LED's to the + battery terminal with a fuse in-line.

I will be attaching the relevant pages from the fsm when I get home from work. Its not really working on my phone.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
So I'm about to start an HID retrofit(FX-R 3.0, potted Denso ballasts, etc...) but I just found out that I'm one of the lucky few with the "special" DRL module. I'd like to seperate the headlights from the DRL's cause I don't want my HID's to be my DRL's.

From what I've seen in the FSM, all I have to do is chop the wire from pin 1 of the DRL module(D8) and extend that wire to a new set of DRL's(LED's most likely) and then wire the other end of the LED's to the + battery terminal with a fuse in-line.

I will be attaching the relevant pages from the fsm when I get home from work. Its not really working on my phone.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Well that is mostly correct. I'll go ahead and assume you have an 01 or 02, because the 2000 model is different. When I said it was mostly correct, what I meant was that with a standard incandescent lamp, it should work fine. When you insert LED lamps in to the equation, you'll have to check. The reason is that T1 of the DRL main relay is grounding the headlamps through a resistance,(like an artificial bad ground), hence reduced output from the lamps. Some LED will work without a pure ground, some won't. Your mileage may vary. If they do work, it will be at a reduced output level. You can probably trigger a relay if you want brighter LEDs. Try it out and let us know how yours works.

Here is the EWD link

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/020hldrl.pdf

:couch2:
 
That was a quick and thorough response and you even posted the pages that I was going to post.

Will update once I'm all done.

Cheers man!
 
Insert dumb question here:
Is the Toyota DRL wiring fairly standard? Reason I ask is I have a 97 Runner from Canada originally that has daytime running lights. I've wanted to move those over to an LED as well but couldn't find a wiring schematic. Thanks!
End dumb question here.
 
Insert dumb question here:
Is the Toyota DRL wiring fairly standard? Reason I ask is I have a 97 Runner from Canada originally that has daytime running lights. I've wanted to move those over to an LED as well but couldn't find a wiring schematic. Thanks!
End dumb question here.

Well the simple answer is NO. The reason is, at least in the US models the early DRL system varied slightly. Instead of applying the ground through the DRL main relay, they used an inline resistor and simply switched it to direct ground when the headlamps came on. I don't have that EWD online, but I could scan it for you if you'd like, or I'm pretty sure [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] has it. You could easily identify your system by the pin locations on the main DRL relay.

:couch2:
 
Well the simple answer is NO. The reason is, at least in the US models the early DRL system varied slightly. Instead of applying the ground through the DRL main relay, they used an inline resistor and simply switched it to direct ground when the headlamps came on. I don't have that EWD online, but I could scan it for you if you'd like, or I'm pretty sure [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] has it. You could easily identify your system by the pin locations on the main DRL relay.

:couch2:

Thanks IBallEngineer - any help would be great. I'll check the pin location tonight.
 
Well the simple answer is NO. The reason is, at least in the US models the early DRL system varied slightly. Instead of applying the ground through the DRL main relay, they used an inline resistor and simply switched it to direct ground when the headlamps came on. I don't have that EWD online, but I could scan it for you if you'd like, or I'm pretty sure [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] has it. You could easily identify your system by the pin locations on the main DRL relay.

:couch2:

[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] My 1999 paper EWD has a Canada Headlight diagram. That's the closest I have. If you can't do any better, I'll scan it over the weekend. It may or may not match.
 
That may be what I have, I'm pretty sure I got it from you but my note says 2000. I didn't make any notation about Canada. LOL
 
So far only differences I've seen for the Canadian model is:
-thicker undercoating
-daytime running lights
-pre-wired for a zamboni attachment
Thanks for the help guys!
 
So far only differences I've seen for the Canadian model is:
-thicker undercoating
-daytime running lights
-pre-wired for a zamboni attachment
Thanks for the help guys!

How do you get the Zamboni hooked up? LOL

OK, on these diagrams you'll see the ground for the Headlamps split off toward the resistor, this is the circuit you'd hijack if you have this model. If you could access your Main DRL, check to see if the terminals match this diagram on the 2nd page.

EarlyDRL001_zps847daf6e.jpg
~original[/IMG]

EarlyDRL002_zps11b3ec26.jpg
~original[/IMG]
 
Thanks IBall - the image has been printed and will be checked out as soon as the boss says my regression testing is complete. I shall report back.
 
So I chopped the wire at pin 1 and wired it to my LED halos and it works!
But! Every time I turn on my headlights, the halos turn off! I figure if I can "trick" the DRL module into never "knowing" that the headlights turn on, then I'll have no problems. I'm just unsure what wire to cut... again. Lol

Looking at the FSM on p106, I think(quite unsure) that i should chop the red-yellow wire between the combo switch and the combination meter.

I have a feeling there isn't actually a way to do this though... please tell me that my feeling is wrong!

EDIT: Oh ya! And here's a vid! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6r7D6uJjOrM
 
Last edited:
So I chopped the wire at pin 1 and wired it to my LED halos and it works!
But! Every time I turn on my headlights, the halos turn off! I figure if I can "trick" the DRL module into never "knowing" that the headlights turn on, then I'll have no problems. I'm just unsure what wire to cut... again. Lol

Looking at the FSM on p106, I think(quite unsure) that i should chop the red-yellow wire between the combo switch and the combination meter.

I have a feeling there isn't actually a way to do this though... please tell me that my feeling is wrong!

Of course there is a way, piece of cake, cup of coffee, walk in the park.

No need to trick the module, you can just utilize the DRL "relay" circuit you just hacked. The White/Green wire you chopped at pin 1 is what you need. Along with a standard Bosch Relay. Here is the sequence that will allow the DRL(Halo) circuit to stay on with the headlights, while NOT grounding T1 externally. I don't know if that would be a problem, but let's just not go there.
First you need to re-chop the wire from T1. Then...

Connect the following:

White green wire you "chopped" to terminal 86 on the Bosch Relay.
T1 wire to T87a on the Bosch Relay
Power source you used for the Halo to T85 on the Bosch Relay.
Ground side of Halo to T30 on the Bosch Relay
T87 directly to ground.

87a and 30 are connected when the relay is at rest, so ground for the Halo will be supplied by the DRL module via T1.

When you turn on the headlights, the DRL relay grounds the White/Green wire at T86. Because T85 is powered, this will activate the Bosch relay.

With the relay activated, the T30 disconnects from 87a, taking the module out of play. T30 is then connected to 87 which is grounded, supplying ground to the Halo.

Easy as pie!

:couch2:
 
Insert dumb question here:
Is the Toyota DRL wiring fairly standard? Reason I ask is I have a 97 Runner from Canada originally that has daytime running lights. I've wanted to move those over to an LED as well but couldn't find a wiring schematic. Thanks!
End dumb question here.

The DRL's were a Canada Only item 1999 and prior years. In 2000 they became standard on US cars as well. My paper '99 EWD manual has a separate Canada Headlights chapter. As I posted above, it is the same as the 2000 US diagram. I'm don't know if the '97 is the same as I have no idea how much it got tweaked from year to year while it was Canada only. Compare that 2000 diagram above to yours and see if things match up.
 
Last edited:
Of course there is a way, piece of cake, cup of coffee, walk in the park.

No need to trick the module, you can just utilize the DRL "relay" circuit you just hacked. The White/Green wire you chopped at pin 1 is what you need. Along with a standard Bosch Relay. Here is the sequence that will allow the DRL(Halo) circuit to stay on with the headlights, while NOT grounding T1 externally. I don't know if that would be a problem, but let's just not go there.
First you need to re-chop the wire from T1. Then...

Connect the following:

White green wire you "chopped" to terminal 86 on the Bosch Relay.
T1 wire to T87a on the Bosch Relay
Power source you used for the Halo to T85 on the Bosch Relay.
Ground side of Halo to T30 on the Bosch Relay
T87 directly to ground.

87a and 30 are connected when the relay is at rest, so ground for the Halo will be supplied by the DRL module via T1.

When you turn on the headlights, the DRL relay grounds the White/Green wire at T86. Because T85 is powered, this will activate the Bosch relay.

With the relay activated, the T30 disconnects from 87a, taking the module out of play. T30 is then connected to 87 which is grounded, supplying ground to the Halo.

Easy as pie!

:couch2:

Sorry if this is a dumb question but how does it shut off?
Will I still be able to shut off my DRL's with the switch I spliced into the wire at pin12?
 
Sorry if this is a dumb question but how does it shut off?
Will I still be able to shut off my DRL's with the switch I spliced into the wire at pin12?

Yes, Pin 12 is the power source for your DRL's right? If you turn it off it won't matter if you have your headlights on, they won't have power. And of course if you turn the key off, they should power down as well.
 
Okay so in trying to do the same thing that is all getting explained here and I'm really glad I found this thread. But when it comes to reading and seeing how it all goes. Its like day and night for me. Do one of you guys have a video of you actually doing this? Im a visual learner.
 
Okay so in trying to do the same thing that is all getting explained here and I'm really glad I found this thread. But when it comes to reading and seeing how it all goes. Its like day and night for me. Do one of you guys have a video of you actually doing this? Im a visual learner.

Well I don't have DRL on either of my 3rd gens, so I can't help you with the video. Why don't you tell us what year you have and tell us EXACTLY what you are trying to accomplish and we can try to help you. Unfortunately this post is over a year old and my old brain has to be retrained weekly so I'll have to look closely and try to answer your questions. However I'll be away for the next 10 days so I will recommend the east coast go to member, [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] to help you in the interim. Or wait til I get back!

:hunter:
 
I have a 2001 SR5 and I know it is old and I do apologize for how late I'm coming into this but I would like some help. I somewhat understand what you guys are saying. But I can't picture it out in my head. An that makes it hard for me to fully understand it. Even pictures would help.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,070
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top