DDM Tuning Saber LED for DRL / High

[Trail-AMMO]

Wow - so these little buddies outshine the Baja Squadron R's?!

I'd be willing to bet yes.

The output in high beam is IMOP unmatched and really limits the need for anything else....

That said you might say " Well then MR Trail-AMMO why do you support a LED bar manufacturer also in your sig?"

That answer is easy and hard at the same time. But when you have spent as much time as I have deep in the woods after 2am almost always in the worst possiable weather you learn that bright is not always the best.... hence different lighting for different conditions.

Another thread another time we can discuss the Sierra Dual Amber White system that I use and why Amber light works where paint melting white doesn't.

But this thread is about DDM Sabers, and if you want instant on BRIGHT these are hard to beat.

-A

 

[Jaydub514]

Annnnnnnd holy hell these are BRIGHT!!!

Perfect for high beams! Definitely NOT ok for full power as DRLs unless you live in the middle of nowhere.

Question regarding the Orange O-ring that comes pre installed and the black one that offers a tighter fit. Are you guys loosening all three screws on the headlight plate to be able to rotate and lock these in? I'm not sure how to get access to the bottom most screw to retighten after getting the bulb to sit in with the black O-ring since the harness and the bottom of the LED bulb physically blocks that screw. The orange one fits without issue but I can feel a bit of play...I currently have the passenger side with the black ring, and the driver side with the orange and will see if I can sense any movement on that side on my early morning drive tomorrow.

And for those who also have HID low beams...where are you mounting all these ballasts/boxes/harness in the engine compartment?! Pics would be super helpful!

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Annnnnnnd holy hell these are BRIGHT!!!

Perfect for high beams! Definitely NOT ok for full power as DRLs unless you live in the middle of nowhere.

Question regarding the Orange O-ring that comes pre installed and the black one that offers a tighter fit. Are you guys loosening all three screws on the headlight plate to be able to rotate and lock these in? I'm not sure how to get access to the bottom most screw to retighten after getting the bulb to sit in with the black O-ring since the harness and the bottom of the LED bulb physically blocks that screw. The orange one fits without issue but I can feel a bit of play...I currently have the passenger side with the black ring, and the driver side with the orange and will see if I can sense any movement on that side on my early morning drive tomorrow.

And for those who also have HID low beams...where are you mounting all these ballasts/boxes/harness in the engine compartment?! Pics would be super helpful!

So to answer your o ring question, I installed the bigger back o ring and did just as you described. Backed off the screws, installed the unit and then tightened the two screws that I could access.

I tried to not back the lower screw off as much, thinking the top two could provide the needed room and the draw it back in using the lower as a pivot of sorts.

-A

 

[t3qrunner]

So to answer your o ring question, I installed the bigger back o ring and did just as you described. Backed off the screws, installed the unit and then tightened the two screws that I could access.

I tried to not back the lower screw off as much, thinking the top two could provide the needed room and the draw it back in using the lower as a pivot of sorts.

-A

+1

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Jaydub514]

Thanks guys, ended up doing exactly that- seemed to be the best way as the orange O-rings were just too loose!

 

[SteadFAST 4Runner]

Yes, use the black o-rings ... its a pain to get them to fit but I believe Trail-Ammo said to loosen the thing that holds the light in (3 screws) and then put in the lightbulb with the black o-ring and you will have no wobble.

My lights definitely have the flicker when running in DRL but its hard to notice. I still run my DRLs when I drive around.

Here is a quickie light comparison of my XT-H11 HIDs, then XT-H11 HIDs + DDM Tuning Saber LEDs, then XT-H11 HIDS + DDM Tuning Saber LEDs + 52" LED Lightbar.

The Saber LEDs really throw light out there... the 52" LED lightbar just floods light all around ... I recently took off the lightbar so I could talk on the phone with people and drive on the highway at the same time, plus with these Sabers I had the amount of light for the time being that I wanted. I will get some 4" Fuegos in the future... only LEDs out there that can really throw light are the Rigid $$$ Brand.

Sorry about the poor quality of the photos, I had my Nikon P900 and no tripod ... but the area I was located was PITCH BLACK and perfect for a shot like this ... if you see in the photos on the right side there are 2 Deer in the photo.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Yes, use the black o-rings ... its a pain to get them to fit but I believe Trail-Ammo said to loosen the thing that holds the light in (3 screws) and then put in the lightbulb with the black o-ring and you will have no wobble.

My lights definitely have the flicker when running in DRL but its hard to notice. I still run my DRLs when I drive around.

Here is a quickie light comparison of my XT-H11 HIDs, then XT-H11 HIDs + DDM Tuning Saber LEDs, then XT-H11 HIDS + DDM Tuning Saber LEDs + 52" LED Lightbar.

The Saber LEDs really throw light out there... the 52" LED lightbar just floods light all around ... I recently took off the lightbar so I could talk on the phone with people and drive on the highway at the same time, plus with these Sabers I had the amount of light for the time being that I wanted. I will get some 4" Fuegos in the future... only LEDs out there that can really throw light are the Rigid $$$ Brand.

Sorry about the poor quality of the photos, I had my Nikon P900 and no tripod ... but the area I was located was PITCH BLACK and perfect for a shot like this ... if you see in the photos on the right side there are 2 Deer in the photo.

Awesome GIF, really helps to show the comp between all the different light sources.

On a side note, maybe we should start or add to a LED bar thread what to expect from bars.... it's important to understand just because you have a 40" or 52" bar that doesn't mean it's any brighter than as we can see in your GIF 2 small LED's with a driver and a focused beam...

lumuns or brightness doesn't always equal distance based on the type of reflector or projector used... most bars are still using flower cup style reflectors that disperse light out to the sides and not focused out in distance. You also need to take into consideration if they are 3, 5 or even 10W diaods. And lastly when to use each type of light... maybe another thread needs to be started

-A

 

[SteadFAST 4Runner]

Awesome GIF, really helps to show the comp between all the different light sources.

On a side note, maybe we should start or add to a LED bar thread what to expect from bars.... it's important to understand just because you have a 40" or 52" bar that doesn't mean it's any brighter than as we can see in your GIF 2 small LED's with a driver and a focused beam...

lumuns or brightness doesn't always equal distance based on the type of reflector or projector used... most bars are still using flower cup style reflectors that disperse light out to the sides and not focused out in distance. You also need to take into consideration if they are 3, 5 or even 10W diaods. And lastly when to use each type of light... maybe another thread needs to be started

-A

Your absolutely right about the LED Lightbars and another comprehensive thread about that. I took off my roof mounted LED lightbar because the wind noise it made on the highway wasnt worth the amount of light it put out. Its a 52" curved Philips CREE 5D LED Spot/Flood.

 

[XswampX]

Great thread. Interested in this upgrade for sure. Let me see if I can summarize:

1. Unreal good/bright/instant on high beams.
2. DRL still work (from same high beam bulb) at a reduced but still very bright DRL.
3. DRLs have some semi-noticeable flicker (any feedback from DDM on this?).
4. DRLs and all accompanying flicker are eliminated with a simple fuse pin bend which leaves ALL lighting normal and auto headlights.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Great thread. Interested in this upgrade for sure. Let me see if I can summarize:

1. Unreal good/bright/instant on high beams.
2. DRL still work (from same high beam bulb) at a reduced but still very bright DRL.
3. DRLs have some semi-noticeable flicker (any feedback from DDM on this?).
4. DRLs and all accompanying flicker are eliminated with a simple fuse pin bend which leaves ALL lighting normal and auto headlights.

I'll answer what I can to the above:

1- YES
2- YES
3- YES, I have not discussed it with DDM but could send them an email. Hasn't bothered me enough to do so.
4- Not sure, this is the first time I've heard of this mod.

 

[Saker]

I'll answer what I can to the above:

4- Not sure, this is the first time I've heard of this mod.

Look at this.... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1978748-post53.html

 

[DLH87]

[*]DRLs have some semi-noticeable flicker (any feedback from DDM on this?).

I just purchased the same lights over the weekend and after the install had the same flicker/hyperpulsing. I had emailed DDM previously and they said to get an LED decoder in case of any flickering. Well, I went into the retail store and the guy behind the counter said I shouldn't need one so I left without the decoders. I've emailed DDM to see if the decoders will fix the problem. I'll let you know when I get a response back.

 

[XswampX]

I just purchased the same lights over the weekend and after the install had the same flicker/hyperpulsing.
...
I'll let you know when I get a response back.

Thanks much.

Also, anyone, do fans run full time under DRL mode?

 

[SteadFAST 4Runner]

Great thread. Interested in this upgrade for sure. Let me see if I can summarize:

1. Unreal good/bright/instant on high beams.
2. DRLs have some semi-noticeable flicker (any feedback from DDM on this?).

1. YES!!!!
3. See video for flicker example... I still run mine in DRL ... to the naked eye its barely noticeable... cameras pick it up and if you see thru the corner of your eye you will see it.
Here is a video of how the flicker looks to a camera.
http://vid134.photobucket.com/albums/q108/mr_offroad/LED Flicker.mp4

 

[DLH87]

Thanks much.

DDM customer service confirmed via email the decoders would fix the issue.

DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting

 

[Jaydub514]

These 'decoders' will likely cause the LEDs to run in full power mode while in the DRL setting...just to let you guys know. This is also how other brands operate as a 'solution' to the flickering at half power when these LEDs are used for DRLs.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Look at this.... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1978748-post53.html

Did to realize that's what they meant by eliminate all flicker and keep function.... cause that doesn't keep the function of the DRL it eliminates it correct?

The flicker is only in DRL mode, and as others have said barely noticeable to the "direct eye"

-A

 

[DLH87]

The flicker is only in DRL mode, and as others have said barely noticeable to the "direct eye"

I guess I'm just being anal about it. I can see it and, though barely noticeable, it's driving me a little crazy.

These 'decoders' will likely cause the LEDs to run in full power mode while in the DRL setting...just to let you guys know. This is also how other brands operate as a 'solution' to the flickering at half power when these LEDs are used for DRLs.

Hopefully the decoder will fix the solution and not run the DRL at full power. I confirmed before buying the lights and am confirming again before I order them.

 

[Saker]

Did to realize that's what they meant by eliminate all flicker and keep function.... cause that doesn't keep the function of the DRL it eliminates it correct?
-A

Yes, eliminates the DRL.

 

[XswampX]

I guess I'm just being anal about it. I can see it and, though barely noticeable, it's driving me a little crazy.

A flickering on any kind, across a broad range of brightness levels and broad range of frequencies can be very noticeable and distracting. What some might call barely noticable will equally drive someone else nuts. I don't think wanting non flickering DRLs is in the least but anal...