Denver bearing service? Updated

Well now I’m stumped.. I finally jacked the truck up and checked for play at 12/6 & 9/3. Both sides have zero feelable play. I’m guessing I prob need to get my dial test indicator on the hub to see for sure. Maybe it’s still in the very early stages. The only time I can hear it is on a long drive on a very smooth road.
What do you think?
 
Well now I’m stumped.. I finally jacked the truck up and checked for play at 12/6 & 9/3. Both sides have zero feelable play. I’m guessing I prob need to get my dial test indicator on the hub to see for sure. Maybe it’s still in the very early stages. The only time I can hear it is on a long drive on a very smooth road.
What do you think?

There doesn’t necessarily have to be play that can be felt to have bad/noisy bearings in my experience.
 
For the guys that sell the bearing assemblies via the various Toyota forums, etc.
I would agree that the guy from Tacoma World would be the best seller and I have recommended him because as mentioned he usually has assemblies on hand ready to ship and he response/communicates quickly, the only caveat I would have with him is he only warranties his work to assemble the parts correctly but not the parts themselves from how I read his warranty, I was all ready to buy from him until I thought about that a bit more, now I'm going to be buying from NAPA, as mentioned they do sell the Koyo bearing but it just the bearing and carrier but not the hub and I don't want to have to press off my hub and press them back on the new bearings, not only do you need a 20 press but to do it correctly you also need the correct adapter plates for the press to avoid damaging the new bearing...but Napa offers a complete assembly...their Napa Solution line of parts which has a Limited Lifetime Warranty and I can get them locally and get them replaced if needed locally if needed, no shipping, etc.

I would much rather have the Koyo bearing but they are only warrantied for 12 months or 12,000 miles through Napa and I would still have to have them pressed on and no warranty at all through the guys selling on the forums

That’s a good move for those without the press and adapters to do the job correctly, but in my case, I’d still have to take the assembly apart anyway to press in the new studs, which is why I plan to just buy the Koyo bearings, then reuse my same hubs (as long as they are in good condition). I also need to replace one dust shield, which I’ve been holding off doing since the bearing needs to come off anyway to get to that.

For those that have done this before, how many additional seals are there? I know about the one that goes in the knuckle itself, but is there a seal in between the hub and bearing? I just want to make sure I buy everything in advance so I don’t have any surprises while everything is apart.
 
There doesn’t necessarily have to be play that can be felt to have bad/noisy bearings in my experience.

I just had that outcome here while troubleshooting a buzzing feel in my steering wheel during right turns at highway speeds. No audible noise, just a high freq low pitch vibration that felt like the steering wheel was buzzing.

I did the 12 and 6 o'clock test at the wheel with it jacked off the ground and there was no detectable play, wheel seemed to rotate smoothly, and stethoscope heard no noise at the inboard side of the hub while rotating the wheel...but brake pad noise may have concealed it.

I found a torn inner CV boot on the right (passenger) side and figured that was the cause. But during disassembly, I also found the outboard spindle seal (big metal base that presses into the backside of the spindle) had failed. The seal spring came out along with the CV splined end, rubber seal surface was trashed. When I unbolted the hub & bearing, there was water inside the bearing and bore, and the bearing was shot.

Both fronts were Marion assemblies installed just under 2 years ago, but given the seal failure I had no expectation of warranty...that's not his workmanship. He didn't reply to my email so I went with Blue Pit.

Lesson learned: always replace the spindle seal, even if it looks fine.
 

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