Destroyed whole front end. SAS time. Have some questions

[REVELC]

I completely rebuilt my front end for under $3k including poly bushings and a Safari Ltd steering rack... You can get a used diff and loaded spindles -bearings, rotors, calipers etc. for cheap... Wrecking years. Yeah the 7.5 is "weak" but its still stronger than a Dana 35. And putting in a lunchbox locker won't make it stronger. You will need an arb for a stronger front end.

The deal is, I am not equipped to setup gears. Its at a shop 3 hours away and I can't do it myself while I train for my new job.

I did check all the local yards and nobody has Toyota parts.

I don't think the 7.5 is weak. The spider gears in it are though, from what I've read.

I figure a lunchbox locker will be stronger than the spider gears and allow me to crawl up obstacles at slower speeds reducing the risk of high rpm breakage.

 

[the great him]

Adjust your driving style... You will just break other stuff with a locker

 

[REVELC]

Adjust your driving style... You will just break other stuff with a locker

You're right.

I'm not normally one to hammer the pedal but I was making a 60* off camber turn on a hill climb. It started slipping back and I was more concerned about a rollover.

Picking the right line seems to be the best fool proof mod. [emoji43]

 

[broken wrench]

They are both SAS kits in the end, albeit very different suspension.

[MENTION=82708]broken wrench[/MENTION]. I can't see why it would be any easier to use links over leafs either. I've done both and the leafs are easier, 4 frame attachments and 2 perches, done. Shock mounting is relatively straight forward. Links are at least 3 frame attachments and 3 axle attachments. Setting pinion angle is much more difficult. And then you have the panhard bar, adding two more critical set up points. Coilover installation is critical too, and more difficult than just shocks. Setting up the steering "could" be easier with the links, but not necessarily. The drag link angle should match the panhard bar, not always easily achieved. Assuming the installer has a high steer setup, the leafs don't require specific angles for the drag link.

To the OP, I think you are correct in your realization that you are better served to fix your IFS, at least in the short term.

KIT=4 letter word

:snacker:

Correct they are all SAS kits, but most consider it to be the leaf spring application when SAs is mentioned.

It is easier with all the prefab mounts on the market. that is what he is being steered to use is a prefab SAS kit . There are way to many options that make links easy to install and setup on the market today, all you need to do is measure,plan and money. typical of all the generic sas builds is the ride comfort sacrificed and standardized ride height. You buy and install what's mass produced and I am guilty of it also, but we have found so many issues with trucks being tweaked and sas's having to be tweaked also. we tune suspensions to the truck, like spring rate, weight and road/off road dynamics. yes, this is done for leafs as well as coils. For us using links can be set easier to address all of those issues.

He asked if he could use the coilovers and he can, by adding the mounts to frame in right location to meet lift needs oil pan clearance and so on.Is it the best design ? No, but that is not what was asked. He needs to address all of that with whom ever his fab shop is going to be.

Above all else if you can fix your ifs do it !!! then research and make a decision based on wants/needs not how fast can I get my truck back on the road because it's my only vehicle

 

[REVELC]

It is easier with all the prefab mounts on the market. that is what he is being steered to use is a prefab SAS kit . This is typical of all the generic sas builds. You buy and install what's mass produced and I am guilty of it also, but we have found so many issues with trucks being tweaked and sas's having to be tweaked also. we tune suspensions to the truck, like spring rate, weight and road/off road dynamics. yes, this is done for leafs as well as coils. For us using links can be set easier to address all of those issues.

He asked if he could use the coilovers and he can, by adding the mounts to frame in right location to meet lift needs oil pan clearance and so on.Is it the best design ? No, but that is not what was asked. He needs to address all of that with whom ever his fab shop is going to be.

Above all else if you can fix your ifs do it !!! then research and make a decision based on wants/needs not how fast can I get my truck back on the road because it's my only vehicle

Yep.

I'd want to do it right the first time and have the capability of tweaking it.

I don't want a hacked together death trap or to get bent over because I'm in a rush.

I'll fix it for now. If it breaks again I'll reconsider my options.

 

[broken wrench]

Tx mud is slippery, it will happen again. Just part of wheeling in the mud, you end up in situations that normally you wouldn't if it was dry. I have been there and doesn't matter what the tire size is. Best of luck

 

[REVELC]

Tx mud is slippery, it will happen again. Just part of wheeling in the mud, you end up in situations that normally you wouldn't if it was dry. I have been there and doesn't matter what the tire size is. Best of luck

1 Which mud isn't slippery?

2 What are you talking about?

3 I was crawling on loose iron ore rock.

4 You realize there are several types of soil in Texas, right?

 

[IBallEngineer]

1 Which mud isn't slippery?

2 What are you talking about?

3 I was crawling on loose iron ore rock.

4 You realize there are several types of soil in Texas, right?

Move out of Textas, oh wait, we have several types here too!

Never mind! :sleepy:

 

[broken wrench]

1 Which mud isn't slippery?

2 What are you talking about?

3 I was crawling on loose iron ore rock.

4 You realize there are several types of soil in Texas, right?

your pics show you in the mud, I assumed that is where you broke. My bad.

yes, I have wheeled in gumbo sticky mud and siltty stuff that cleaned of easily with tire spin. It was a joking response, but good luck with your dilemma

 

[UnderFire]

The deal is, I am not equipped to setup gears. Its at a shop 3 hours away and I can't do it myself while I train for my new job.

I did check all the local yards and nobody has Toyota parts.

I don't think the 7.5 is weak. The spider gears in it are though, from what I've read.

I figure a lunchbox locker will be stronger than the spider gears and allow me to crawl up obstacles at slower speeds reducing the risk of high rpm breakage.

Take the new diff and gearset and drop it off at the drivetrain shop, 2 or 3 days later go back and pick it up, and since they didn't have to mess with pulling or re-installing it, they'll only charge you 1-200$.

 

[REVELC]

your pics show you in the mud, I assumed that is where you broke. My bad.

yes, I have wheeled in gumbo sticky mud and siltty stuff that cleaned of easily with tire spin. It was a joking response, but good luck with your dilemma

Oh! Ha-ha.

I posted an old picture so I didn't get the "This thread is useless without pics!"

That was after the Texas Jambo this year. The park was terrible and muddy. Usually it's firm and dusty.

 

[REVELC]

Take the new diff and gearset and drop it off at the drivetrain shop, 2 or 3 days later go back and pick it up, and since they didn't have to mess with pulling or re-installing it, they'll only charge you 1-200$.

I would but I was only able to check on it before I went out of town. (And shed a few tears)

They are only charging $750 to set up both. I feel like that's a great deal.

 

[REVELC]

Slapped on some 315s. It decently needs a body lift now but the gears are perfect. More throttle response than with 4.10s and 265/75s.