Diamond In The Rough - Custom Differential Cover - Izzy gets her leaky caboose fixed

Chris86

New member
Diamond in the rough

It's now a Diamond in the rough! I've completely rebuilt the differential cover on my 98' T4R. It looks great under Izzy's chassis, however, the rest of her cancerous chassis doesn't help to compliment her rear end.

A Little Background Info:
I got my T4R not too long ago. While it's been great, I can't just sit back looking at it. One day, I got under her and thought, geez there is a lot of rust on the diff cover, I should really do something about that. Out comes a flat blade screwdriver (* This is where everyone here starts to cringe* )

A few pokes and I figure ahh she looks a bit better. I can work with that. A day later, I have a look underneath and yes, as you all guessed. She is starting to slowly leak gear oil. Of course, I come to check out the forum and come to find out its a common issue on the older T4R's, my luck, and so Diamond in the rough begins.



Don't poke your rear end, don't look at it, don't think about it.....and you'll probably still have this leaking issue ;)

Pulling the Rear End:

I got started removing the rear end. While there isn't a lot of work to get it out, there is a few concern area's where you can expect to have some bolts break. For example. I snapped 1 bolt for each sway bar mount. Some of the e-brake cable support bracket bolts broke and the upper shock bolts were both seized.


Jacked up and ready to go under the knife.


This is the start of the bolts breaking. This is just to the left (Drivers Side) of the diff cover. This is one of the e-brake cable support brackets.


I took some photos for reference. Due to the condition of this e-brake cable support bracket ill have to make a replacement.


These clips will need to be removed. This right side one was quite simple. The left side was seized and took a bit of work. These clips are the ends of the e-brake cable where they join the arm that goes into the rear brakes.


My initial intentions were to disconnect the rear brake line here for simplicity. Due to the condition of the line & block, I decided against it. I ended up removing the brake line which is located a good foot above the rear end above a chassis support piece.


Here you can see the bracket, just to the left of the container that holds the brake line. If I was to do this again I would probably look at replacing all of my brake lines from this bracket to the wheels. Mine is in rough shape. Its still working but I will be replacing it down the road.


I've got the brake line running into this container. I didn't have anything to plug this hard line with. I wish I did, however, I only lost about 3/8" worth of brake fluid which wasn't too bad at all from the reservoir.


I didn't want to piss around with the ABS sensor cables located up near the upper shock mounts. Instead, I removed them from the rear axle and hung them under the chassis out of the way. This will require removing the little clips. A few per sensor.


Lower shock bolts removed and shocks taken off the shaft.


End links disconnected. I got pretty lucky that I got both upper end links unbolted.


Drive shaft disconnected as well. I like putting bolts back where they came from for organization. I also just strapped the driveshaft out of the way with a ziptie. Keep it simple.


Panhard bar bolt removed. I ended up taking the bar right out of the truck to make things easier. This allowed me to inspect the bushings.


Trailing arms removed. I only took off the truck side of the trailing arm bolts. The rear end side was removed in the shop. Leaving the arms attached to the rear end housing actually helped in moving the housing.


I was a bit concerned with getting the rear springs out of the truck since I do not have a compression tool. Turns out I jacked up the chassis high enough that after letting the rear jack down. The springs were loose and I could pop them right out. Perfect!


Just about ready to come out. Next step was to lower the rear end. I left the upper trailing arm links attached. I used these to support the rear end and allow it to come down in an orderly fashion.


TOUCH DOWN! Rear end on the ground. Things were going pretty smooth up until this point. Things continued pretty smooth after this point although heavy manual labor was in my near future.....hmmm




Rear end removed.


Work smart. We put the rear end up on a garden cart and took it to the shop.
 
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Stripping the rear end:


Up on jack stands in the shop. This is the last time the shop will be this clean until I am done. I started removing the rear sway bar, lower trailing arms and other brackets.


As I expected, the rear trailing arm bushings are just shot. Time to tackle the custom bars in the near future!


Rear axles removed. This went pretty well. If I was to do this again, I would have drained the gear oil in the truck and removed the rear axles to lighten the load.


And the axles put to the side.


Gear oil drained and the 3rd member removed. Time to poke at the diff cover to see where the soft spot(s) are.


Bingo, there's one of the soft spots. I ended up finding a couple other soft spots around the same area.


Removing the inner baffles. Notice anything wrong with this photo??

Prepping the Rear End:


Due to the tools I had on hand I decided to replace the nuts that had bolts broken off in them. I figured this would be best for a long-term solution.


Another new nut. A lot of the broken bolts happened on the brackets at or near the diff cover. Because of that. I fabricated all new brackets for the rear end.




Those above images about sum up the nasty brackets near the diff cover. Missing from the above photos is the center e-brake cable support bracket as seen in earlier photos.


All new brackets built. I'm really happy I went this route. Much easier to deal with.


Next, I started plugging the rear end to get ready for sandblasting. I figured this would be the best way to get the rear end clean. I used some scrap aluminum I had on hand to plug the axle tubes and the abs sensors. I stuffed the axle tubes and abs sensor tubes with rags that I could pull out after the blasting was complete to pull out any rouge sand that made its way in.


3rd member area was also plugged with rags. Again I used some spare metal on hand and cut out a nice cover that I bolted to protect this area.

Back from the blasters:


I didn't get any photos of the cover I built. But above you'll see the cover after it came back from the sandblasters. I also didn't take any photos of the diff cover but I welded in some scrap steel to plug the holes so that sand didn't come in. I also painted the diff cover and asked the sandblasters to avoid that area as best they could. They listened and the job was completed perfectly. I had D&D Services do the sandblasting near Merville on Vancouver Island.


They did a great job avoiding the cover. I also kept my old breather installed in the rear end. I knew I was putting a new breather in so I removed the cap....Ok I lied, the old cap fell off!! And so, I welded the hole shut to keep sand out.


As soon as the rear end got back in the shop I started to hit it with its first coat of POR15 to protect it from rusting. Yes, I am doing things a bit backward by not replacing the diff cover before the blasters. I will rectify this next time I do it!




The next step was to remove the old holly diff cover. This went pretty well. Lots of trapped oils to get rid of in there.


If you caught it earlier, I broke on the of studs off when removing the diff. It got me thinking, buy another stud or look for alternatives. I had a look online and did some research on the stud eliminator upgrade people have been doing. I followed suit and installed some 40mm button head cap screws as the new studs. I blue loc-tited them in and here we are.
 
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Building the new cover:

I started playing around with a new cover in CAD to get an idea of what I wanted to do.


Here is some of the simple earlier work. As you can see along the horizontal plane below the cover, that is a 9" diameter circle used to represent the center of the weldable area for where the cover is going.

The circle you are looking at it is to represent the ring gear and the height that the ring gear is exposed above the rear end housing.


I then proceeded to print off a to scale 2D drawing of the cover I wanted to make. This will end up being a great reference for me when I go to bend it. The next trick was trying to figure out how I wanted to bend the plate. I used 3/16"x4" plate. I could have just used the vice and some heat but I had access to a press.


Here is the setup for the press that was made to bend the plate. While it worked good, the only issue I had is that it did not bend the plate in as tight of a radius as I would have liked. I think I will have to redesign the bender to produce tighter radius' next time.


After working with the press and my to scale drawing of the cover I ended up with this. I didn't get a photo of just the center section piece that you have seen in the drawings. It can be seen in the uppermost photo.

I also tacked on the side pieces. I again used 3/16"x4" plate for these pieces. Everything was looking really good at this point. It was getting pretty late but I did make the triangle templates to fill in all 4 corners. I used cardboard to make the templates.


Another look at the diff cover to this point.


Triangles all added in. The cover is ready to final welding.


Lots of welding on the rear cover. I decided to go for a smooth and sexy look. I also wanted the new diff cover to be welded on with some heat. My welder wasn't enough to do this part as the rear end is pretty thick. I strapped it to my trailer and put it on my friend's bike and rode it to D&D Services again to get the welding done. Again, the job was completed perfectly. They were such stand-up guys that they got the job done while I waited in the parking lot. Excellent! That gave me the weekend to work and get the truck ready to go again.


Fresh back from the welders. Excellent job. Now to figure out where I want the new fill plug.


The new fill plug was added. I wanted to turn the nut on the lathe to produce a round bung to be welded on but I didn't have the right tools here to tackle it. I also welded on the uppermost bracket on the rear end as well as the double nut side bracket. Things are getting closer.


I also water tested the cover to make sure it was ok. I left it overnight like this and came back to no leaks. Perfect. On to the next step.

Painting and prepping the rear end for install:


Its time to paint the rear end. Inner baffles installed along with the diff. I wire wheeled the 3rd member housing which worked pretty good. I then hit it all with POR15 to finish the first coat.


Oops. Can't forget the center bracket for the e-brake cable...or can you? I did! Anyways, POR15 goes on heavy enough that it's not an issue to remove a layer and re-apply. I quickly installed the rear axles and ran some nylon string between the two e-brake cable connections on the back sides of the drums. I then offset the bracket so that when the support piece is bolted on it will locate the e-brake cable in the center of the diff.


I moved the rear end outside to catch some sun for the second coat of POR15. I also wanted the rear end to be close to Izzy for install.


The rear end is just about ready. I hit the entire thing with a POR15 top coat and got all of the parts ready for install.


Can't forget the new breather install. Looks great now!

Installing the rear end:


I really didn't want to scratch the rear end before I got it installed. I wrapped the critical areas which solved that concern.


Again, work smart. I put the rear end on this piece of plywood and moved it into position on my own. I prepped the truck by re-installing the links and getting some of the cables re-routed where they needed to be. I made sure to use anti-seize on all of the bolts.


Links connected and the rear end is sitting in the truck again.


Now you can see why I call it a diamond in the rough. Panhard bar installed and the springs were put in place as well.


It was a late night. I was on a roll and wanted to have Izzy ready for the morning light. It worked out and I just had some brake bleeding and adjusting to do in the morning.
 
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And she's back on the ground! I proceeded to take her for a quick run around the block. For anyone that's really paying attention, I didn't have stocks to put back in. I cut the old shocks out as the upper nuts were seized. It was an interesting drive around the block.

Conclusion:

Izzy was back on the road yesterday for her first drive with her new rear end. She's loving it. Today, Monday, I got some new shocks installed and also did more brake adjusting. Shes handling quite well with the new shocks.


New shocks installed. Very easy to install and I also made sure to anti-seize the upper threads.

Diamond in the rough​





Questions, Comments? Let me know. Cheers guys and girls!
 
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And she's back on the ground! I proceeded to take her for a quick run around the block. For anyone that's really paying attention, I didn't have stocks to put back in. I cut the old shocks out as the upper nuts were seized. It was an interesting drive around the block.

Conclusion:

Izzy was back on the road yesterday for her first drive with her new rear end. She's loving it. Today, Monday, I got some new shocks installed and also did more brake adjusting. Shes handling quite well with the new shocks.

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New shocks installed. Very easy to install and I also made sure to anti-seize the upper threads.

Diamond in the rough​

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Questions, Comments? Let me know. Cheers guys and girls!

My only complaint is that your photos aren't showing up! Looks like a great writeup otherwise
 

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