Difference in OEM Brake shoes

O2RunnerSR5

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Ordered rear shoes from dealer over the phone for a 2001 4runner. Picked shoes up today, before they closed, and the part number reads 04495-35230. A sticker on the box reads Hilux for EU. This made me question what the dealer gave me, so I did some research. It looks like 04495-35250 is the correct part # for 01-02 4Runners. My question is, are these interchangeable, and will they work no problem, or did the dealer give me the wrong brake shoes.
I really wanted to tackle this job this weekend but want the correct parts. Thanks!
 
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Yea been plugging my Vin in online and half the searches say compatible, while the other half say incompatible. Trying to call dealers this morning to see if they have any more info
 
according to partsouq, the 35250 part is an acceptable substitute:
Just a moment...

Thanks for the link was able to bump numbers against it. Confirmed with the dealership today, after giving them my vin, ( they said they didn’t need the vin when I ordered smh) and they ordered me the wrong part. 35220 was the original part number and 35250 is its new part number for 01 4Runners. Glad I caught this before starting the project. Don’t trust, verify! Thanks everyone.
 
04495-35230 is what I used for my 1998 4runner limited. Perfect fit. Would be interesting to know the difference, if any, for a 2001.
 
@max 04495-35230 is the correct # for 96-00 4runners. I believe the -35250s are slightly larger. don't quote me. But i didn't not bother opening the box incase the dealer tried pulling some "no open box returns" crap on me.
 
Wanted to take a look today before new pads come in. Is this just 23 years (180k miles) of brake dust or bigger problem? Thanks.

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I think that looks really good especially for 180K miles. Are you sure they haven't been replaced more recently? Either way it looks normal to me.
 
I can’t remember the last time I bought OEM brakes.

I’ve been doing this for 40 years. Napa preimum brake pads and shoes is my standard.

Never lost sleep over stressing out over not buying non OEM brakes.


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Your brakes look great for 23 years old and almost 200k. They really aren't even worn out which is totally normal. For whatever reason Toyota rear drum brakes last forever. OEM brakes are probably the best, but any name brand premium brakes are going to be almost as good.
 
Your brakes look great for 23 years old and almost 200k. They really aren't even worn out which is totally normal. For whatever reason Toyota rear drum brakes last forever. OEM brakes are probably the best, but any name brand premium brakes are going to be almost as good.


There is a standard for front pads to rear pads/shoes. It’s normally 2 or 3 to 1.


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I think that looks really good especially for 180K miles. Are you sure they haven't been replaced more recently? Either way it looks normal to me.


I’ve owned it for about 8 years and none of the service records that were passed to me showed rear brakes being done. Doesn’t mean they weren’t though, good point. Was quite surprised how well the hardware looked tbh and drums were fairly easy to pull off. The inside is caked in this dust. I’ve done alot of maintenance in my life, but have never done a rear brake job, wasn’t sure if this was normal.
 
Your brakes look great for 23 years old and almost 200k. They really aren't even worn out which is totally normal. For whatever reason Toyota rear drum brakes last forever. OEM brakes are probably the best, but any name brand premium brakes are going to be almost as good.


It’s interesting they last as long as they do. My ebrake does little to nothing when pulled (11-12) clicks. Had my wife pull the brake for me while I watched the shoes, and there is very very little movement, which made me think if something else was wrong and it’s not the shoes. I pull the brake lever just about every time I park. We’ll see what happens when I get the new shoes in later this week. Fingers crossed it works afterwards


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It’s interesting they last as long as they do.

Mine looked just like that when I replaced them too.
The drum inside diameter was fine also.

Notice in the photos above that one edge of each shoe is fatter than the other edge. Mine were the same way.

I never could get the star adjuster to do its job though, so I had to adjust them as best I could so that the drum just barely slipped back on, and then I let the parking brake mechanism (or was it rear braking?) finish the adjustment.

Mostly the fronts do all the friction anyway.

BTW, what matters MOST for brakes?
Friction, right?

So the second question anyone should ask themselves about replacement shoes (or pads) is what is the friction rating of the OE pads/shoes versus their chosen friction rating.

There hasn't been a pad/shoe sold for passenger vehicles in the USA without that information stamped on the pad in about two decades, so it's there.

But what is the friction rating stamped on those shoes for the OP's shoes?
 
It’s interesting they last as long as they do. My ebrake does little to nothing when pulled (11-12) clicks. Had my wife pull the brake for me while I watched the shoes, and there is very very little movement, which made me think if something else was wrong and it’s not the shoes. I pull the brake lever just about every time I park. We’ll see what happens when I get the new shoes in later this week. Fingers crossed it works afterwards


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Go through the rear brake/e brake adjustment procedure with the new shoes.


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Those brake parts look fine, other than the worn pads. Be sure to clean everything up with brake parts cleaner before disassembling, lubricate the backing plate at the correct pivot points and either replace the drums or have them resurfaced. If they have enough meat, O'Reilly's will resurface both for around $60.
 
My brake shoes had a lot of dust and slightly uneven wear but it's common for them to still have that much life left at that milage. Shoes take longer to wear down, and they're located in the back which does less braking. I wouldn't replace them, if you get shaking you resurface the drums, the shoes don't cause that.

Toyota more often than not has multiple part numbers that work for brake shoes and pads.
 
It’s interesting they last as long as they do. My ebrake does little to nothing when pulled (11-12) clicks. Had my wife pull the brake for me while I watched the shoes, and there is very very little movement, which made me think if something else was wrong and it’s not the shoes. I pull the brake lever just about every time I park. We’ll see what happens when I get the new shoes in later this week. Fingers crossed it works afterwards
Avoid breathing that brake dust. That's why brake parts cleaner exists - to clean that stuff without blowing it into the air... Otherwise, things look good under the drums. Probably don't even need to be done.

It does sounds like something in the parking brake and auto-adjust system is not working. There are a few threads on here about how to verify all the parts are working. Pulling the e-brake is supposed to operate the ratchet (wear) adjusters as needed, so you are doing the right thing there. On my California, rust-free truck I needed to tighten the e-brake cable a tiny bit in the cab before the adjuster system started working again. In the rust belt, a number of components can freeze up and stop the adjustment system from working.

-Charlie
 
A little off topic from the original post, but I completed the job today. Took me 7 hours, but I could def do it in 3 hours now. Just wanted to post a couple things I came across and also I believe these brakes have been replaced before, looking at the hardware. Rock Rats method of preassembling the brakes is what I did and made the job of getting the new brakes on, fairly easy.

1st: Dorman kit HW17253 kind of sucks for an 01 4runner brake job. All I used out of it were the long springs, and springs located at the bottom of brakes and a couple of the cups that hold the brake to the axle. I really needed new pins but they were too small and other replacement springs were too small or too long.

2nd: my passenger side brake adjustment gear was seized. Which was kind of a pain, but removing the long spring and the spring at the bottoms of the brakes I was able to get the whole assembly off and unstick the assembly gear on my bench with vice grips and a screwdriver.

3rd: once I finished brake replacement, I tested the brakes. There was an improvement driving and braking, but ebrake was still lacking significantly.
I needed to adjust my ebrake cable in the cab. It would click 11-12 times. I removed the lock nut completely then tightened the adjuster nut until I got 7-9 clicks with normal pulling effort. I put the lock nut back on and tried torquing it to the 48 inlb per FSM, but the adjustment nut would turn with the lock nut (prob why it has you remove the console) So I just left it snug. Now the ebrake holds the 4runner in neutral on hills and in park great now!


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