Dimmer Switch Help

Generaljdog

New member
First off, I did many searches to research this problem and did find some good information that helped me troubleshoot the problem and identify where I made mistakes. However, I still can't totally resolve my issue.

I installed a new HU in my 2001 4Runner. Actually it was a swap, as I didn't like the first one and returned it for a new Kenwood. Anyway, I did the DA thing with the Crutchfield wiring harness and connected the two orange wires. tail lights went out, as well as the dash light gauge cluster and the lights by the AC controls. I figured out my problem by reading the forum, i.e. the Orange wires, got that corrected, replaced the Tail 10A fuse under the hood and the tail lights started working.

As of now, my gauge cluster is out as well as the AC control lights. When I turn the lights on, the clock dims, so I know that the turn signal switch seems to be working. The dimmer switch, no matter what I do, does not do anything, i.e. yes, I've turned it on and off. My gear indicator lights work, the 4x4 lights work, all of the other accessory lights work, including cruise, check engine, etc. Just the gauge cluster and AC lights are out.

I did read that someone had a similar problem and it was the dimmer switch. Person said to either replace the dimmer switch or bypass it. I guess that's my next item to check. Wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and if they have some suggestions.
 
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Thanks for the reply. Yea, I did that as well. I unplugged the radio and too the wiring harness off. I even went as far as hooking up the factory head unit and amp just to take everything aftermarket out of the equation. Strange thing though, when I hooked up the factory stereo, It worked, but there was a faint buzzing heard through the speakers. Make me wonder if I had a bad ground somewhere, but I didn't touch any other cables while doing the stereo.

I did however replace my fuel filter yesterday as well. Took the Fuel filter relay out below the steering column, but again, that's the only thing I touched there. I keep wondering if maybe I pinched a wire under there or something when I buttoned it back up, but I would think that would have been pretty hard as everything is pretty tight under there.
 
Rheostat

O.k. Called Crutchfield. They told me I likely need to be looking at the Rheostat dimmer switch. Any ideas on how I can remove the existing one and either replace or bypass it?
 
burnt dimmer

I am having the same problem. what did you do to fix the issue? this is the most annoying problem i have ever had with a car
 
First off, I did many searches to research this problem and did find some good information that helped me troubleshoot the problem and identify where I made mistakes. However, I still can't totally resolve my issue.

I installed a new HU in my 2001 4Runner. Actually it was a swap, as I didn't like the first one and returned it for a new Kenwood. Anyway, I did the DA thing with the Crutchfield wiring harness and connected the two orange wires. tail lights went out, as well as the dash light gauge cluster and the lights by the AC controls. I figured out my problem by reading the forum, i.e. the Orange wires, got that corrected, replaced the Tail 10A fuse under the hood and the tail lights started working.

As of now, my gauge cluster is out as well as the AC control lights. When I turn the lights on, the clock dims, so I know that the turn signal switch seems to be working. The dimmer switch, no matter what I do, does not do anything, i.e. yes, I've turned it on and off. My gear indicator lights work, the 4x4 lights work, all of the other accessory lights work, including cruise, check engine, etc. Just the gauge cluster and AC lights are out.

I did read that someone had a similar problem and it was the dimmer switch. Person said to either replace the dimmer switch or bypass it. I guess that's my next item to check. Wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and if they have some suggestions.

Where did you tap into the dimmer switch? I'm asking because there are two switched 12 volts that you could possibly use there.

When I did my latest project I also used the dimmer circuit and initially tapped into one of the swithed circuits of the dimmer control, thinking there was only one possible source. What happened was as soon as I turn the knob to gradually achieve full gauge cluster brightness, it also gradually dims the dash on indicators on my switches 'til it's out. It would do the same thing if I turn the knob the other way. It was either the dash cluster was bright or my panel of swithes.

Turns out, like I mentioned, there's another wire behind the dimmer switch that I could use to tap into and it works, the dimmer switch still controls the brightness level of the gauge, and I got my switches going only they aren't dimmerable.
 

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