KDSS disables itself over 12mph if there isn’t g-load / steering wheel input / vehicle yaw.
Love it o around and there is a graphic somewhere showing the speed and input relationships.
Disable KDSS with toggle switch?
- Thread starter LT Ambrose 26
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KDSS disables itself over 12mph if there isn’t g-load / steering wheel input / vehicle yaw.
Love it o around and there is a graphic somewhere showing the speed and input relationships.
WildSockets
Member
dr_kdss on Instagram is selling a harness with a switch for $130.
Here’s DrKDSS’s system wired to my switch Pro. super impressed with every aspect of it so far.
DrKDSS sway-bar wiring disconnect. - YouTube
DrKDSS sway-bar wiring disconnect. - YouTube
Toyota just doesn’t want to deal with the liabilities of it being disabled over the 12mph. Trust me. Also I’ve tested this thing like no other. Yes both v1 from blackgate and v2 that I have not that happens all inside. That outside location is too vulnerable and I had some test trucks have seal failures. And if you go back , Jetboys wiring is the better route which v1 is not. Except I change it up a little and made it inside the cab and not using resistors so we can have the kdss light on the cluster.
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Kdss does not disable over 12mph. It never really disables. It’s always working. The kdss control harness / switch deal weather it’s the v1 I made for blackgate or my v2 is what disables the kdss so that the accumulators stay open. Which in turn allows the fluids / pistons to move.
Under 12mph from factory the accumulators are open. Over 12 it’s closed which doesn’t allow the fluid/ pistons to move.
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3445627-post16.html
Looks like KDSS is disengaged over 12mph unless steering speed is over 5 deg/sec or lateral G is greater than .2.
Works for me... multiple computers/browsers and on mobile... it's a post by Jetboy and if you scroll down to the bottom of his post you will see the charts.
I’m getting invalid link and to click browser and it sends me to some random page on the forum.
Ok what I’m saying is when you kill the power to the accumulators ( which is what the control harness I have does). The accumulators stay open. And it basically allowing for more sway. When over 12mph and kdss control harness not activated , the accumulators are closed and doesn’t allow for the sway and is basically in the stiffest mode it can be in.
Also prob the confusing is in the terminology being used.
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If you are not feeling it you are not driving it enough. Or haven’t drove it enough to know what it does or doesn’t feel like. Even if you are heavily modified. I doubt it’s as modified as mine. I have basically a race setup per day and can def feel it. Mayb it’s not working or failed. Especially if it’s the v1 control harness. Might want to check it.
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Maybe try something other than Tapatalk... I don't know.
Anyways, if you read through the chain of what I was replying to, the question came up as to how does anyone know if the system is designed to handle 'high speed'.
If you go and click the link or do your own research, you will find out that your current understanding of the valves (to the accumulators...accumulators do not get electrical power here) is overly simplified. The valves are open under some conditions above 12 mph (not all conditions). You can also feel this occasionally, like if you take an on-ramp corner slow or fast, the steering/yaw/g-sensor input will modify the system to open/close the valves and change the body roll angle automatically (without an override switch).
you can scroll through this page to see further discussion on the topic:
KDSS Long term reliability?
I can see the switch being useful under some scenarios such as high-speed washboards possibly, but otherwise it's not for me.
Also, back to the speed discussion, suspension cycling doesn't generally care about vehicle speed, it only cares about the "size" of the bump.
honda250xtitan
New member
those 2 variables to keep it "off" when above 12mph that are posted in that thread will never happen when your going above 12mph off road. the switch is a HUGE difference. its great for anything off road IMO
oh, you have twin tube foam shocks....nvm.
Lol. Commenting on something you have idea about is “smooth “ brained [emoji1787].
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I’ll keep it even more simple. Take the fuse out for the kdss. It will stay stiff as hell all the way through. Feels the same as anything over 12mph. It stays stiff and the “accumulators” stay closed and you can’t even compress that kdss shocks even under 12mph or 4 lo. Trust me I actually put a hydraulic jack under the hanging kdss shock ( no sway bar connector ) and was able to lift the whole vehicle up. That’s with the vehicle running. Turn if off and it will compress the kdss shock and vehicle lowers.
Pull the plug either outside at the kdss pump. Or pull it from inside where the kdss brain is at which interrupts the power to the valves , The accumulators stay open and the piston in the shocks can now move.
You should try it. It’s not only about high speed washboard per say. I mean 13mph is not fast at all and you can def feel how much less the cab rocks. You definitely have a better understanding of all the diagrams and what’s what. But it’s like an electrical engineer never actually stepping into a building to see the insides and what not. Can you explain to me how when I tested pulling the fuse out , that it stayed stiff all the way no matter what speed and I can’t compress the shocks I’m the kdss but as soon as I turn off the truck you can.
Also about suspension /Shocks. Especially high end shocks. Yes they depend on speed. Yes on size of bump too. But speed approaching those bumps can determine how the oil flows through the piston / shims / bleed holes. So what I’m saying is shocks are velocity sensitive. And then throw a bypass shock in there and now you can be position sensitive.
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honda250xtitan
New member
who said delete? it just switches it off for when you wanna be rowdy. turn it back on for the drive home. best of both worlds.
Of note, there is no 'pump' unless you're treating the pistons as pumps.
Simple (2-way, 2 position) solenoid valves come in two flavors, normally open and normally closed (there are exceptions such as latching).
It sounds like pulling the fuse tells the electrical brain box to default the system to command the valves closed. This is probably for 'safety' to ensure body roll/stability is maintained under a simple electrical (fuse) failure case.
Pulling the plug at the solenoid/accumulator box disconnects the solenoids from the brains and they default to their normally open state.
Driving at a 6" square curb at 10 mph might be harsher than hitting that same bump at 60 mph depending upon where you are at in the natural frequency of the system (sometimes it's easier to drive faster and things smooth out than drive slower and things go bumpity bumpity).
It would be great if someone could take their phone (with a good mount), and run some tests over the same courses (whoops, washboards, etc.) to quantify harshness (vibration/shock mostly) along with body roll etch with the system on and off for comparison.
Since it is a "HUGE" difference, can you quantify it into meaningful values for the rest of us...
I'm thinking about upgrading to monotube shocks with heim joints that have to be rebuilt every 3 months with increased NVH and extra leak joints because I want to pretend that I Baja 9999 this rig... no I'm not haha
Installed the Blackgate Customs switch a couple weeks ago, finally got to use it on some roads at Hollister Hills SVRA this past weekend. Actually forgot about it for most of my trip there (sigh) but remembered it towards the end.
For crawling it probably doesn't make a difference, but uh I had forgotten so I don't know.
For bombing down the dirt roads between fun places it was night and day. I was shocked. I had tried it around town, tried to find potholes to exercise it and couldn't tell a difference. On dirt roads (not washboarded, just rutted / etc) where we were going 25-35mph, it was almost like riding on a magic carpet.
The truck has 8112's in the front and 5160's in the rear (8100's in the garage ready to be installed when I have time). Aired down to ~20psi and it still made a huge difference.
I'm _very_ happy with it.
For crawling it probably doesn't make a difference, but uh I had forgotten so I don't know.
For bombing down the dirt roads between fun places it was night and day. I was shocked. I had tried it around town, tried to find potholes to exercise it and couldn't tell a difference. On dirt roads (not washboarded, just rutted / etc) where we were going 25-35mph, it was almost like riding on a magic carpet.
The truck has 8112's in the front and 5160's in the rear (8100's in the garage ready to be installed when I have time). Aired down to ~20psi and it still made a huge difference.
I'm _very_ happy with it.
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