Distributor Woes

[RiFF RaFF]

Hey guys. My 93 has been shutting down when the engine temp get hot (not over-heating - just hot). I think I've traced it to the distributor (no spark when it shuts down). If I let the distributor cool down to the touch she'll fire back up again, and run fine. Until it does it again.

Has anyone had this happen? Or does anyone have a distributor laying around they don't need? I'll pay for it along with shipping/handling - if reasonable.

Thanks ya'll

:sadwave:

 

[mholme]

Timely first post for me. I just went through this exact same thing on my '88 3VZE. I'd been chasing a heat related loss of spark and it turned out to be the igniter/coil bracket was not grounded well enough. I thought it was the ignition coil(slightly out of tolerance) so I replaced it and it actually ran worse and refused to restart when it died. So I cleaned up the mounting holes for the igniter/coil, one of which was stripped and causing the coil to move, bolted everything back down securely and it runs great now.

Worth a shot if you haven't already physically tested the distributor and know it's bad. Good luck.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

Timely first post for me. I just went through this exact same thing on my '88 3VZE. I'd been chasing a heat related loss of spark and it turned out to be the igniter/coil bracket was not grounded well enough. I thought it was the ignition coil(slightly out of tolerance) so I replaced it and it actually ran worse and refused to restart when it died. So I cleaned up the mounting holes for the igniter/coil, one of which was stripped and causing the coil to move, bolted everything back down securely and it runs great now.

Worth a shot if you haven't already physically tested the distributor and know it's bad. Good luck.

Thanks for the response. I'm 95% sure it's the distributor. Here's why...

When the engine cuts off it will start up with no problem after it has a chance to cool down.
When it does shut down - I can crank the engine, but no spark.
If I take the distributor cap off, and after it cools down - will start up easily.

I will do as you posted, and clean up the hold-down and bolt holes for the igniter and coil along with replacing the distributor (order one from Rock Auto) - hell buddy it can't hurt!

First will be to do as you posted above - before the new distributor arrives. If it works I'll send it back. If not - in with the new distributor.

I'll update this thread when there's a change in status.

:high5:

 

[Wazukie]

If the disty doesnt fix the problem, put a new igniter in it, it will cause the same issue

 

[RiFF RaFF]

If the disty doesnt fix the problem, put a new igniter in it, it will cause the same issue

One of the first things I tested - Igniter and Coil - both swapped out. Same results.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Change cap and rotor, probably wires too. Test the distributor according to the manual, not sure if this is 4 or 6 cylinder, here's what you would be checking for resistance if its the 4 cylinder:

Manuals are all over this site, find and download the one for your 4 runner then find the test for the distributor to see what the resistance should be. I'd also check it hot and cold to see if its different.

 

[mikesmith140]

I had intermittent issues very similar to you. The CEL codes showed it might be the signal sender from the distributor. I got a new distributor, since I couldn't buy only the electronic signal sender, and everything cleared up. I think the circuit in the signal sender, which is attached to the distributor, was overly sensitive to heat and causing my intermittent/heat related issues. All good now : )