Ditch light switch always illuminated
- Thread starter BikeDestroyer
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MattJakobs
New member
Have you switched the wires running to the accessory and the one running to the power source?
BikeDestroyer
New member
Not yet, I'll try that when I get home today. I just noticed that it was always illuminated in the garage this morning in the dark, I didn't see it yesterday when I did the switch in the daytime.
LittleCaesar
New member
Also check your wiring to ground, though as Matt said, probably the wires are switched....
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Ding ding ding! Winner!
You want the wire to your LED to be tapped off either an existing light in the dash, or the dimmer switch itself. If it's an earlier year, it's either the green or white/green wire, can't remember which it is off the top of my head.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Even though they are LED, I would install a fused relay under the hood and connect the switch in the dash's output (hot when toggled on) to trigger the relay. That's only 1 wire to have to penetrate the from the cab to the engine bay (assuming your LEDs wiring runs to the engine bay, not the cab) Power the switch from a fuse inside the cab (like the radio) that's only hot when ignition is on - unless you want to use your ditch lights when the truck is not running. This way your LEDs get full battery power and don't load up an existing circuit.
We were referring to the GREEN LED on the rocker switch. But yes, you'd want a relay for those led pods. Assuming the OP used one of those pre-made harness kit. The only source I use with a t-tap. Is to send power to my "upper independent led" on my rocker switch. And believe me, that single led bulb that lights up your rocker switch is probably drawing less then 1amp. Everything else should be be protected by a fuse and relay. Your led pods should be protected by a fuse and a relay. And the rocker switch by a fuse.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I don't mind combining a switch w/LED to an existing circuit for the purposes of powering the switch's LED and triggering a relay [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION], but yes, in a perfect world that switch would be on it's own fused circuit to make troubleshooting easier.
As I start to add switches to my cab to control relays outside the cab I am considering a single fused circuit for the switches on the inside as I have some ignition-on blank spaces in the fuse box in my cab I can tap into without overloading an existing circuit.
As I start to add switches to my cab to control relays outside the cab I am considering a single fused circuit for the switches on the inside as I have some ignition-on blank spaces in the fuse box in my cab I can tap into without overloading an existing circuit.
I know.
This is what I use. Except a 10 relay box. And not a 5. It's sitting under the seat where the OEM jack goes. All wires are pre ran. I simply connect my accessory and I'm golden. My accessories work without ignition power. Because the fuse block is wired directly to the battery. And yes, it has a breaker inline. In other words, everything is rough wired for future.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Wa...432123?hash=item33dbf2753b:g:2vQAAOSwe-FU6d9q
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
I was looking at a similar box, albeit somewhat cheaper. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/248388-extra-engine-bay-fuses-relay-install.html
Yeah same concept. A lot of people use the bussman relay box. I don't think it's that expensive. Considering it comes with fuses, relays and everything wired.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
You're probably right, it also looks pretty flash with that red snakeskin wire wrap
4x4runner2002
New member
Listen to him his wires are very pretty.
BikeDestroyer
New member
It's fixed. I had to swap 2 wires a blue wire & white wire. I do have a relay & fuse, it was all in the wiring harness for the lights. Thanks for all the input!
