DIY crank pulley holder question

yella

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The bolts that go through the 2x4; do they screw into the pulley, or should they just sit inside ( like the proper tool ). What grade bolt should be used and what size bolt - if they are to just stub inside. I know the bolt size and pitch that gets screwed into the pulley.


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The bolts that go through the 2x4; do they screw into the pulley, or should they just sit inside ( like the proper tool ). What grade bolt should be used and what size bolt - if they are to just stub inside. I know the bolt size and pitch that gets screwed into the pulley.


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cb9df54c0b59bef0f02ba77bfecd3e07.jpg


Here is mine.



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The bolts that go through the 2x4; do they screw into the pulley, or should they just sit inside ( like the proper tool ). What grade bolt should be used and what size bolt - if they are to just stub inside. I know the bolt size and pitch that gets screwed into the pulley.


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m8 x 1.25 should be the threaded holes in the crank pulley. I would not use threaded bolts... because if you bend them your going to have a hard time getting them out. I used to use the 2x4 with m8x1.25 long bolts and the last time I bent them... I purchased this tool and am glad I did. it's still a biach @ 217 ft/lbs

do a google search of "OTC 4754 - Universal Pulley holder" this is the tool I purchased last time I broke the 2x4, the pegs that go into the crank pulley

it's the same idea but it just uses hardened pinns
<a href="https://imgur.com/nt5JXLc"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nt5JXLcl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/3nfKPOF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3nfKPOFl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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Grade 5 - 3/8" will work just fine.
You don't want them too long.

Like the picture 19963.4lsr5 posted you only want them to stick out about 3/4"-1".
Otherwise they might bend which won't give accurate torque readings when tightening.
 
I used the starter bump method for removing my crank bolt and it worked amazing. Stupid simple and effective.

You will still need a tool to hold the crank when you install the new crank bolt though.

My brother (when my rig was still his) made a tool out of some angle iron and a plate. One large hole to allow the socket to go through and the two small holes for the bolts.

I used grade 8 (actually I think its called 10.9 in metric) M8 x 1.25 bolts. I cant remember the length but make sure you buy some that aren't too long ( buy a few different lengths if you're not sure and since every homemade tool is different). If they are too long, they will bend (even the grade 8 bolts) and can be a pain to remove. Also, make sure the tool is sitting flush against the crank (no gap).

My bolts didn't bend because they were sitting flush against the tool and the tool was flush against the pulley. I was able to torque the crank bolt to the 217 ft/lbs with no issues, even by myself.
 
I just did mine over the weekend and used M8 x 1.25 x 75mm. Grade 10.9.

I threaded them all the way in and had the tool flat against the crank (I had to remove the bolts holding that lower wiring loom so I could move it out of the way). No problem at all.

I broke it with the starter bump method, and used the tool to tighten. Honestly, it was pretty simple. I vastly over-worried on this (although that may have been why it went so smoothly).
 
A few feet of cotton clothes line rope down a spark plug hole works too. The Volvo guys have all been doing it like that for decades.

Worked for me.
 
I'm trying to remove my pulley and the 8mm x 1.25 will only thread in about 3/16 of an inch. Are you sure that's the right thread pitch?
 
I'm trying to remove my pulley and the 8mm x 1.25 will only thread in about 3/16 of an inch. Are you sure that's the right thread pitch?

Haven't a clue what thread.
If you use 3/8" they won't thread in but the will fit in perfectly.

M1mBICz.jpg
 
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They are definitely M8x1.25 threads. The holes/threads can get rough over time with rust. Try using some rust penetrant and working the bolts in and out until it goes in more. Make sure you don't cross thread it either.

They can be threaded in to the point where you see them come out of the back of the pulley.
 
skip the 2x4 or fabricating one and rent a universal pulley holder (ac, crank, both work - camshaft won't but you need one of those two if you're doing this in addition to a tb/wp job)

cost me nothing at hilo. i just found two bolts from my garage that fit and it worked with an ac pulley holder.

also, if your crank pulley is stuck on, try hitting it with a rubber mallet very lightly. should be enough to loosen it.
 
They are definitely M8x1.25 threads. The holes/threads can get rough over time with rust. Try using some rust penetrant and working the bolts in and out until it goes in more. Make sure you don't cross thread it either.

They can be threaded in to the point where you see them come out of the back of the pulley.

Threads were rusted...got it , thanks
 
How far apart are the bolts/holes, and how deep do the bolts need to go to overcome the step in the balancer?

I'm trying to figure out making this without removing the balancer and I don't have a spare one laying around to get dimensions from
 
How far apart are the bolts/holes, and how deep do the bolts need to go to overcome the step in the balancer?

I'm trying to figure out making this without removing the balancer and I don't have a spare one laying around to get dimensions from

I remember seeing someone post the dimensions in the past but you'd have to search for it.

Otherwise, design your holder like the one posted above that can adjust to the spacing of the holes so it won't matter.

Good luck
 
I remember seeing someone post the dimensions in the past but you'd have to search for it.

Otherwise, design your holder like the one posted above that can adjust to the spacing of the holes so it won't matter.

Good luck


It’s in my build and repair thread.


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