Great write up. Mine would not latch. Lots of salt here in Rochester which is probably why mine went. Ordered the part for $200 with free shipping and arrived in three days. Took me 15 minutes to install. I unplugged the computer module in the liftgate while I swapped out the latch. Plugged everything back in and turned ignition to "ON". Gate closed and latched but would not open so I used the key in the liftgate and turned it to lock and unlock. Works perfectly now.
I have a similar problem with the hatch - where it would NOT lock.
I've read so much about the hatch NOT opening that I have a few questions about my problem - which is the opposite.
The locking mechanism costs $450 Cdn at the dealership and not sure how much the ECU costs. Since both parts are electrical/electronic - they won't take back the units if I swop out the parts and it doesn't solve my problem.
===The problem ===
2007 4Runner, driven in typical Canadian winters with lots of salt on the roads.
My back hatch/door will not stay locked.
I would close the door as usual and the door mechanism engages. So it seems. It closes the door normally by pulling it in the last few inches. Everything seems fine - UNTIL I gently lift the door. The door then opens.
Again, the locking mechanism pulls the door shut and engages, BUT it doesn't hold it (the door) in place. In fact, I drove out from a parking lot - and the hatch popped opened.
So -I'm thinking - it's either the locking mechanism (cost=$450) and/or the ECU unit (cost = ??).
I haven't had the chance to try connecting and disconnecting the power to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) yet. It's minus 15C - so I'll wait till it warms up to try that.
If disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the ECU doesn't fix it, is there a way to determine if the problem is the locking mechanism - or - the ECU - WITHOUT having to buy the units to troubleshoot?
Does anyone have experience to tell which part is defective based on the above description?
Thanks in advance.