DIY: Power Steering Flush (4th gen specific)

Figured I would post up my experience doing this today using the instructions in this thread.

1. Longest part was getting the hose off the Reservoir for me.

2. My fluid was brownish/clear and did not look that bad.

No record of it being done. 123k on the vehicle. Steering felt good before. After doing this however, steering feels firmer not looser. There is no more play in the wheel and everything feels tight.

Overall worth it to change. I used Valvoline dex from Advance auto and used just about one bottle.
 
Bumping old thread.


How did u get the hose off. I tried today but couldn't manage to do I stopped since it got darked.will try again this weekend
 
Figured I would post up my experience doing this today using the instructions in this thread.

1. Longest part was getting the hose off the Reservoir for me.

2. My fluid was brownish/clear and did not look that bad.

No record of it being done. 123k on the vehicle. Steering felt good before. After doing this however, steering feels firmer not looser. There is no more play in the wheel and everything feels tight.

Overall worth it to change. I used Valvoline dex from Advance auto and used just about one bottle.


im having the same issue lol how did you manage to get it off
 
im having the same issue lol how did you manage to get it off

Sorry to not reply faster and you probably already completed the job. However it may help someone else.

I kept the clamp in position and squeezed it with pliers while pulling. Basically shimmied it out. I felt like the reservoir was going to break off. If i was to do it again I would have sprayed a small amount of something in there to help slide it out. It would flush out anyway afterward.
 
im having the same issue lol how did you manage to get it off



I have a set of pick tools and have one with 135 deg bend that I like using to help get hoses off. I’ve rounded the end of mine off so it is not sharp and has less of a chance of poking through the hose.

I’ll dip it in some oil and start working it around the edge and then slowly work it further in trying to keep end parallel to the connection and occasionally dipping it in some more oil.

I haven’t tried it with this hose yet, but I do need to flush mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Mag 1 Pwr St Fluid???>

Had my 2006 V8 for couple of weeks...first 4runner so learning maintenance stuff here and there.

Went to the dealer today to get some crush washers and asked about what fluid they sell for power steering. The guys said all they put in the 4runners is Mag 1, which is a power steering fluid. I go to their website and they say to use that only for topping off reservoir, not for a flush. I want to do a flush per method described here. So in that case go with a Dexron 3/4 ATF i assume?

Why, i wonder, is the toyota dealer running this stuff in all their trucks? Did he think all i was going to do was top it off...i don't think i specified, i assumed he knew i was doing a flush. Regardless, he implied they run that through their shop whn doing flushes, not top-offs.
 
Had my 2006 V8 for couple of weeks...first 4runner so learning maintenance stuff here and there.

Went to the dealer today to get some crush washers and asked about what fluid they sell for power steering. The guys said all they put in the 4runners is Mag 1, which is a power steering fluid. I go to their website and they say to use that only for topping off reservoir, not for a flush. I want to do a flush per method described here. So in that case go with a Dexron 3/4 ATF i assume?

Why, i wonder, is the toyota dealer running this stuff in all their trucks? Did he think all i was going to do was top it off...i don't think i specified, i assumed he knew i was doing a flush. Regardless, he implied they run that through their shop whn doing flushes, not top-offs.

I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF - same for the tranny.
 
Reservoir clip release

Any tips in how to release the clip that holds the PS reservoir in place.
Looks pretty solid. Don't want to break anything, but want to clean it well.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
Any tips in how to release the clip that holds the PS reservoir in place.
Looks pretty solid. Don't want to break anything, but want to clean it well.
Thanks

Screw driver to pry the metal clip back a little bit.

Can't really clean the inside of the reservoir that well, I tried. Too many little pockets and shit inside. If it's really bad, maybe consider replacing it. Otherwise, rinse it out as best you can using something like Purple Power or Simple Green and follow up with some brake cleaner and let it dry real good before reinstalling.

Tap the clip back into place after reinstall with a hammer and screw driver or punch. Doesn't take much so go easy.
 
Just recently picked up a 4th gen, and am doing the initial baseline maintenance. Didn't see a 4th gen specific DIY guide to flushing power steering. Anyways, I recommend doing this every 80k miles, as it makes a big difference immediately, especially if the PO filled your reservoir with power steering fluid instead of the specified ATF.


**Before starting, safely jack front wheels off the ground, and support with jack stands.

1) -
Locate the power steering reservoir underneath your hood​


fUAHnB8.jpg

So getting ready to do this with my '05 - thanks for posting. What exactly is the process for bleeding at the end?



2) -
Inspect your level and condition of fluid​

Notice, mine is disgusting, and way overdue for a change. Steering effort is very high, and I suspect this flush will make a big difference.



snprroE.jpg




3) -
Remove return line, and cap off the nub with Ziploc bag and zip tie. Insert 7/32" hose into your return line and secure with zip tie.​

It'll still leak, but it'll be much slower and easier to soak up with a towel. 7/32" hose available from any auto parts store.



Oo73wdG.jpg




4) -
Route 7/32" vacuum line through the core support and down to a milk jug on the ground​


You'll want a 6' hose, long enough to reach from the reservoir to the jug on the ground.



62N6oLg.jpg




weliSJI.jpg





5) - Now, top up your reservoir all the way to the brim with fresh ATF (DEX 2 or 3). Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not start the truck.

6) - Slowly turn the wheel from NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock once. Do not hit the full locks, as you want the flow of fluid to be continuous.

7) - Top off the reservoir, and do another Near-lock to Near-lock.

8) - Repeat this process until you have pink fluid coming out of the hose, into the milk jug. Once the exiting fluid is clean, continue until your fluid is at the proper level within the reservoir.

9) - With clean fluid in the system, and the reservoir at the proper level, hook your return line back up to the reservoir and replace the cap on the reservoir. With your truck still on the jack stands, start the truck and repeat the bleeding process of turning NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock until you have no more frothing in the reservoir. If you hear a groaning noise, just keep bleeding.




TADA! You're done! Enjoy your proper steering feel, and a vastly more healthy power steering system! Total cost = ~$20 for a gallon of ATF.

So getting ready to do this with my'05 so thanks for posting. What exactly is the process for bleeding the fluid at the end? Thanks again!
 
I can't imagine paying a shop to do this - it's so easy and fast to do. It took me longer to go to the auto parts store to get the materials.

Pro tip - One way to cut down on the mess is to buy a 4 dollar turkey baster to suck out the fluid in the reservoir before taking off the supply line. The turkey baster won't fit into the reservoir, so just cut a few inches from the 7/32 hose.

Also, to remove your low pressure line, key in mind that the reservoir clamp has to be moved WAY back as the return line nub is quite long.

Lastly, use the smallest zip tie you have for this job - only had big thick ones and they were difficult to cut when done and helped me make a mess.

Turkey Baster pictures
 
Nice little tutorial here. Thanks to OP for putting this together and others for their additional experience. I just did a flush on my 03 V8. This thread made it a cinch.

I used the tutorial given earlier in the thread to minimize spillage: Changing Power Steering Fluid - advice needed | Toyota Nation Forum

Everything went to plan except I couldn't easily attach the 3/8" ID plastic hose over the reservoir inlet without more force than I cared to apply. With rubber you might have more flex and fit it. I had a large vacuum cap handy and it stretched over the end of it fine. This basically meant I wasted a about 5 dollars on the brass adapter and cap that I was otherwise planning to use. Maybe a Camry has a slightly smaller inlet barb than our 4Runners. Incidentally, I was going to do this on my Lexus sedan, but I noticed the hose off of the reservoir on that was 5/8" so I'll have to grabs some different hardware next time I'm at the store to tackle that.

I used only a quart of fluid total in my exchange. I didn't pull the reservoir because I didn't want that hassle and mess, and frankly with such a small opening, it will be difficult to get any real cleaning done. I may do another flush after a few thousand miles and see if that helps clear it up any.
 
I flushed the power steering fluid on my '04 T4r today using this thread as a guide.
My ride has just over 160k on the odometer and it had never been done before. The steering seemed "tighter" & more responsive afterwards. Before, it had a sloppy feel to it-almost like the tie rod ends going bad.

Now I've decided to pull the reservoir off & give it a good cleaning because it was so dirty.

Thanks for the write up!
 
Last edited:
Just recently picked up a 4th gen, and am doing the initial baseline maintenance. Didn't see a 4th gen specific DIY guide to flushing power steering. Anyways, I recommend doing this every 80k miles, as it makes a big difference immediately, especially if the PO filled your reservoir with power steering fluid instead of the specified ATF.


**Before starting, safely jack front wheels off the ground, and support with jack stands.

1) -
Locate the power steering reservoir underneath your hood​


fUAHnB8.jpg




2) -
Inspect your level and condition of fluid​

Notice, mine is disgusting, and way overdue for a change. Steering effort is very high, and I suspect this flush will make a big difference.



snprroE.jpg




3) -
Remove return line, and cap off the nub with Ziploc bag and zip tie. Insert 7/32" hose into your return line and secure with zip tie.​

It'll still leak, but it'll be much slower and easier to soak up with a towel. 7/32" hose available from any auto parts store.



Oo73wdG.jpg




4) -
Route 7/32" vacuum line through the core support and down to a milk jug on the ground​


You'll want a 6' hose, long enough to reach from the reservoir to the jug on the ground.



62N6oLg.jpg




weliSJI.jpg





5) - Now, top up your reservoir all the way to the brim with fresh ATF (DEX 2 or 3). Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not start the truck.

6) - Slowly turn the wheel from NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock once. Do not hit the full locks, as you want the flow of fluid to be continuous.

7) - Top off the reservoir, and do another Near-lock to Near-lock.

8) - Repeat this process until you have pink fluid coming out of the hose, into the milk jug. Once the exiting fluid is clean, continue until your fluid is at the proper level within the reservoir.

9) - With clean fluid in the system, and the reservoir at the proper level, hook your return line back up to the reservoir and replace the cap on the reservoir. With your truck still on the jack stands, start the truck and repeat the bleeding process of turning NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock until you have no more frothing in the reservoir. If you hear a groaning noise, just keep bleeding.




TADA! You're done! Enjoy your proper steering feel, and a vastly more healthy power steering system! Total cost = ~$20 for a gallon of ATF.

I must have not flushed all of my old out, because I only used a quart.
 
It only takes 1 qt to replace the fluid. And at $8 a quart, thats all I use. Valvoline max life ATF is great fluid for this. So heres a tip, use 1/4” ID clear vinyl tube instead of vacuum hose. Shove it into the return hose until you feel resistance. No zip ties needed, there is no pressure in this line. You will see immediately when the ejected ATF is coming out clean.

And lastly, install a Magnefine inline 3/8” filter. This will keep the fluid clean and help prevent wearing of the rack and pump seals.
 

Attachments

  • 7D60A33E-ECFC-433D-AEA3-4B28B57AB26B.jpg
    7D60A33E-ECFC-433D-AEA3-4B28B57AB26B.jpg
    129.7 KB · Views: 528
Last edited:
It only takes 1 qt to replace the fluid. And at $8 a quart, thats all I use. Valvoline max life ATF is great fluid for this. So heres a tip, use 1/4” ID clear vinyl tube instead of vacuum hose. Shove it into the return hose until you feel resistance. You will see immediately when the ejected ATF is coming out clean.

And lastly, install a Magnefine inline 3/8” filter. This will keep the fluid clean and help prevent wearing of the rack and pump seals.


Yea it’s definitely not cheap! I appreciate the advice too I hadn’t thought about installing a filter.

I’m hoping this will fix the PS growling on cold days. If it doesn’t, was going to try that Lucas PS stuff.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top