DIY vs spod/switchpros

jdm-v35

Member
Just curious what most people do for their switching and relays? Switchpros looks ok but the spod touchscreen system looks good.

I was also debating if i should make my own relay box system and use the aob switches.

I dont see too many people doing their own relay setups for multiple controls. I currently have a single relay for rear lights but just did it under the dash since it is the only one now.

Will be planning to add left and right scene lights, another set of rear lights on the roof rack and eventually in grill light bar.

Would like to also control it from the RTT. Whether by bluetooth for the premade setups or a diy detachable switch box if i make my own.

Just interested to see what approach most people take for a clean install.
 
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I've been comparing the 2 for quite a while now. The SPOD system has the edge to me since it's completely plug and play and you don't need bus bars and extra wiring and work. As a techy I was really into the touchscreen system but after several reviews and videos I've seen that the touchscreen is super laggy and buggy and that has swayed me to look into other options.
 
Just curious what most people do for their switching and relays? Switchpros looks ok but the spod touchscreen system looks good.

I was also debating if i should make my own relay box system and use the aob switches.

I dont see too many people doing their own relay setups for multiple controls. I currently have a single relay for rear lights but just did it under the dash since it is the only one now.

Will be planning to add left and right scene lights, another set of rear lights on the roof rack and eventually in grill light bar.

Would like to also control it from the RTT. Whether by bluetooth for the premade setups or a diy detachable switch box if i make my own.

Just interested to see what approach most people take for a clean install.

I would look st the SPod HD Panel as opposed to the touch screen. I had the opportunity to play with both prior to buying and the HD Panel is far superior. Much more tactile and similar to a physical switch. Easier to hit the buttons while driving. It pairs with an app that gives it same/similar functionality as the touch screen

I can only speak for SPods customer service and its amazing. They 100% stand by their product
 
The main reason I like the touchscreen is I like the features and easy access to those features through the touchscreen.

the HD also costs the same price!! To me the switchpros would be better than the HD. Same features but lower(proper) pricepoint. I cant see paying 750 for a lower model when the touchscreen costs the same.

The switchpros also does bluetooth which would be good.

It seems like I could make a nice DIY setup using OEM switches for around 160-200 but of course it would lack the other features.
 
The main reason I like the touchscreen is I like the features and easy access to those features through the touchscreen.

the HD also costs the same price!! To me the switchpros would be better than the HD. Same features but lower(proper) pricepoint. I cant see paying 750 for a lower model when the touchscreen costs the same.

I liked the touchscreen myself and the cost was a factor too. In addition, I like that the power module is a sealed unit unlike the Spod.

....you don't need bus bars and extra wiring and work......

You do not HAVE to install the Bus and Terminal Bars, it just makes for a cleaner install. There's a few people writing up install stuff on it....

Here is a vertical mounting solution for the power module that Switch Pros is requiring now. See this thread:

Switch Pro 9100 Vertical Mounting Solution
 
Just saw thwre is a bussman kit from shrockworks that looks good and sinple. Sonce you brought up the spod not being sealed i took a look and the case itself doesnt even seem to be water resistant yet they wont warranty water damage.
 
[MENTION=96749]enginerd4ni[/MENTION] build thread is a must read, he uses the bussmann and designed his own AOB break out switch board. He is building me one with a proper 3D printed back plating. I have a single Shrockworks bussmann mount, it should be plenty for five light switches; I'm pretty much doing what you had in mind with the roof rack and lightsofholic work.

Just another alternative to consider, you can message Jeremy any questions you may have, and he is also a great community contributor.


Wiring post:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2379846-post52.html

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2379850-post53.html
 
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Thanks! I appreciate it and am just very torn between the 3 options at this point. All have pros and cons. But spod touch, bussman with aob switches, or switchpros 9100.

I am more leaning to bussman though as i can do secondary switches in the rtt
 
After a lot of looking around I went SwitchPros. Super simple and I didn't really have to figure anything out. I like the fact I don't have to worry about relays. Adding something to it just requires hooking it up to the rails.
 
If you want to see the nitty gritty of the work involved on a blank canvas Bussmann, but I highly recommend one that has been prewired.


DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord
DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block | Tacoma World

Thanks!! I do quite a bit of electrical so it would Be pretty simple, just tedious.

For me the comparison is this:

Spod touch:
Simple, easy, clean install but not waterproof. Love the features and touchscreen.

Switchpros:
Easy, waterproof(but i have seen them short at the plug), relatively simple but not as clean once you add buss bars.

Bussman diy:
Cheaper, simple, easily modular, easy and cheap to fix, can use aob switches. It doesnt have any cool features though. Would take time to initially make(or i can buy the shrockworks prewired).
 
I went the DIY route, originally using AOB switches and otherwise universal rocker switches.

Currently, I utilize two Feniex 4200 Mini switch controllers, one located where the OEM switches (set of 4) are in the front kick panel; the other mounted to the jack/tool kit cover in the rear.

The front is using all six outputs; the rear is using five of the six.

I have four relays mounted on the drivers fender that control OEM Fog lights, ditch lights, grille lights, and a (not yet installed) roof light bar.

In the rear, I have four relays mounted on the inside of the drivers side quarter panel (above where the fuel door sits, but accessed through the jack compartment), that control Left Scene Lights, Right Scene Lights, Rear Scene Lights, and Ground Lights. The rear cargo lights are powered directly off the 4200 Mini as it can support 3.5A per output.

Front Outputs
Fog Lights
Ditch Lights
Grille Lights
Side Scene Lights
Rear Scene Lights
Ground Lights

Rear Outputs
Cargo Lights
Ground Lights
Left Scene Lights
Right Scene Lights
Rear Scene Lights

The relays in the rear that are dual controlled have their trigger inputs dioded to prevent back feeding power; and one switch from the front (side scene) triggers two relays at the rear (left and right). The rear scene lights relay is also triggered by placing the vehicle in to reverse (total of 8 lights in reverse).

The front controller is powered with key on power and the rear has constant power. If I had to list two gripes about the Feniex 4200 Mini; they would be the inability to turn off the "beep" when pressing buttons and the fact that the backlight is only in green (and not able to be dimmed). Also, if you were reading carefully enough to notice that the roof light bar doesn't have a switch, that's correct. It's triggered via a splitter off the OEM high beam signal harness.

I'll post some pictures tonight
 
I went with the Shrockworks as well, there were just to many factory spots to not take advantage of using factory oem switches. Wasn't as bad as i thought it was to get accessories wired. plus I love the breaker option to be able to disengage all power to the unit.
 
I don't have many switched accessories. For my ARB I have CH4x4 switches fit for the OEM dash spots (one was a custom made OEM matching front locker switch, the other was one of the already made compressor switches). I then use them to control my own relays in a waterproof box I've made that is mounted in the engine bay. Inside the box I use screw terminal PCB based relay modules. They're dirt cheap, pretty reliable, and easy to wire with screw terminal connectors. I prefer them to the standard 12v bosch style relays only because of how easy they are to wire in with screw terminals instead of making up a bunch of crimped ends.

A 4 channel relay PCB like this costs about $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K7ZLYL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
51gN4YpbfGL.jpg


I don't have any personal experience with SPOD or other similar pre-made solutions. I imagine they are probably a good option if you don't mind the additional cost for a plug and play solution.
 
Personally, I would go with the Switch Pros 9100. While I haven't physically had my hands on the SPod, I have installed a few Switch Pros for guys and I like what I have seen. While I do prefer the look of the OEM switches, the ease of adding accessories and the no hassle of the solid state makes this one an easy choice for me. The slim profile of the switch panel and the addition of bluetooth (from the 8100 to the 9100 model SP) is what made me prefer this over the SPod Bantam. I have done quite a few of the Bussman blocks also, and that would be my first choice if going DIY. Be sure to keep an extra relay or two on hand just in case, as I have not seen the "slim" 87a relays as readily available at the parts store.
 
thanks for all the great ideas. it definitely brings in a lot of factors and things to think about. I do aggree that the modularity of plug and play units would be easier. as well as only havingt 4 open spaces for AOB switches in the trd orp dash. That would mean I am limited to my current plans.

Just many factors to consider as well as possible additions in the future.
 
I was running a home made distribution system that used AOB switches. I would say, it wasnt hard and was an interesting and fun experience. I'm now running apollointech system along with switches that are mounted onto a 3D printed mount. Much more cleaner and tactile vs the OEM switch location and AOB switches.


Will be mounted a volt meter to the OEM Toyota SOS button location.
65c38473a40f6f7a1961ca48189494e0.jpg
2b91b059e998b80b6d0653cf0ad6c88b.jpg


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
This is a great thread guys! Wish I knew all this info before I started my project and bought something.

I wanted the convenience of using the OEM blank switch locations AND having an additional switch panel but I did not want to use the blank area below the A/C controls since I have an amateur radio there.

I researched the:
Schrockworks Bussman
Switch pros 9100
sPod Bantam
eBay Bussman knockoff
DIY methods

The Bussman was ok but no switch button panel.

I liked the switch pros button panel but that unit could not accommodate using AOB switches in the blanks.

The 8 switch Bantam could be daisy chained with 3 more units for up to 32 accessories with one touch screen and could use AOB buttons for 1 or 32 remote switches! BUT it is in the price gouging range!

eBay knockoffs were the same as the Shrockworks Bussman

The DIY was out because I’m too busy with other stuff than to design something even though I’m quite capable.

I chose the sPod Bantam with touchscreen but had a hard time due to its excessive and over priced cost! I agree with the others that the touch screen is quirky but it’s works. I have yet to find a suitable location that I like. The engine compartment switch is small and has all the overload protectors without the need for relays and fuses. Very current technology. It appears to have all electrical protection circuits water proofed and board is water resistant. The screw connections are protected but neither water proof or resistant.

I recommend it, but put up with a less than state of the art touch screen or get the push button panel and limit your switches to 8.
 
So I priced everything out for a DIY using AOB switches and here is how it would play out vs the other options including estimated install/assembly time:

complete DIY starting with blank cheap relay box: $250-275 + 4-6 hours of wiring.
Pros: cheaper, can wire any way I want, easy maintenance of bosch relays etc.
Cons: lots of DIY time, not as clean install, no bluetooth, limited to 6 devices.

DIY Using Shrockworks Bussman and prewired kit: $300-350 + 2-3 hours of wiring.
Pros: cheaper, can wire any way I want, easy maintenance of bosch relays etc., save some time vs from scratch, bussman is better than univeral relay box.
Cons: lots of DIY time, not as clean install, no bluetooth limited to 5 devices.

Spod Touch: 750 + 1 hr wiring
Pros: very easy install, very modular, clean and nice looking install and controls, bluetooth
Cons: Price, could get water damaged.


Switchpros: 600-700(with mounting) + 2 hrs labor
Pros: very easy install, very modular, clean and nice looking install and controls, bluetooth
Cons: Price, could get water damaged, not as clean as spod due to all the wiring, not as modular as spod.



Overall, I think DIY is cheapest option but not as clean and limited modularity, Switchpros falls in between DIY and Spod for combination of price, features, ease and cleanliness of install. Spod is the most expensive option but easy and clean install and more modular in the long term.

I dont have the immediate need for it yet since I am waiting on the roof rack and lights etc, but I think that I will end up going the spod touch route since it would be a long term investment for me. I don't like buying new cars, so I would plan to keep the 4runner for 20 years most likely or as long as it does not fall apart.
 
So I priced everything out for a DIY using AOB switches and here is how it would play out vs the other options including estimated install/assembly time:

complete DIY starting with blank cheap relay box: $250-275 + 4-6 hours of wiring.
Pros: cheaper, can wire any way I want, easy maintenance of bosch relays etc.
Cons: lots of DIY time, not as clean install, no bluetooth, limited to 6 devices.

DIY Using Shrockworks Bussman and prewired kit: $300-350 + 2-3 hours of wiring.
Pros: cheaper, can wire any way I want, easy maintenance of bosch relays etc., save some time vs from scratch, bussman is better than univeral relay box.
Cons: lots of DIY time, not as clean install, no bluetooth limited to 5 devices.

Spod Touch: 750 + 1 hr wiring
Pros: very easy install, very modular, clean and nice looking install and controls, bluetooth
Cons: Price, could get water damaged.


Switchpros: 600-700(with mounting) + 2 hrs labor
Pros: very easy install, very modular, clean and nice looking install and controls, bluetooth
Cons: Price, could get water damaged, not as clean as spod due to all the wiring, not as modular as spod.



Overall, I think DIY is cheapest option but not as clean and limited modularity, Switchpros falls in between DIY and Spod for combination of price, features, ease and cleanliness of install. Spod is the most expensive option but easy and clean install and more modular in the long term.

I dont have the immediate need for it yet since I am waiting on the roof rack and lights etc, but I think that I will end up going the spod touch route since it would be a long term investment for me. I don't like buying new cars, so I would plan to keep the 4runner for 20 years most likely or as long as it does not fall apart.

Nice write up Sir! While the sPod Bantam is incredibly expensive, I am very very pleased with it. I take way too much time installing everything but in the long run, the system is excellent.

The bigger sPod switching system does not appear waterproof, but the SPod Bantam has a different design. The only thing partially exposed are the 8 positive and 8 negative connections for the accessories and the 10 optional connections for 8 AOB switches, the low voltage override, and a hot switching circuit.

I paid $845 less a 5% discount, however, there was a group buy here a few weeks back that resulted in a fairly nice discount. Might keep watching to see if that pops up again.

I mounted the Bantam on a Stainless PowerTray that makes this a professional looking install.
 

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