Do I have to replace the transmission filter?

FD7683

Member
Hey guys, small question (love this forum!)

Would it be ok and skip out on changing the ATF filter? I heard its just a mesh filter. I plan to flush out the transmission fluid using Timmy the Toolman's method where I drain the fluid, and put the correct amount - then flush a quart, and add a quart back.

Now, thing is I don't want to change the ATF filter just because of the pain to scrape off the old gasket. My transmission shifts a bit hard in the morning, but i'm pretty sure its expected in a cold transmission (and engine). It shifts fine when warm. Should I drop the pan, and change the filter then perform the flush - or just go straight ahead and flush the tranny without touching the pan. Tranny has an unknown history of the last ATF change, but it's overdue since i've had the truck since 2012. Bought it with 150k, and now has 220k (its overdue by 2 drain and fill fluid services). The color of the fluid is still red (which is still fresh, so it's been changed before). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

(I already posted this photo in another forum).





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2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Package V6
 

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Nope

It's a metal screen, unless there is debris clogging the screen you just leave it alone. I would suggest to get an oil sample and send it to Blackstone for analysis.
 
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I replied in your other thread but basically, change the filter. It's not that much work and the filter can become plugged up over time and starve the pump which will ruin the tranny.
 
Hey guys, small question (love this forum!)

Would it be ok and skip out on changing the ATF filter? I heard its just a mesh filter. I plan to flush out the transmission fluid using Timmy the Toolman's method where I drain the fluid, and put the correct amount - then flush a quart, and add a quart back.

Now, thing is I don't want to change the ATF filter just because of the pain to scrape off the old gasket. My transmission shifts a bit hard in the morning, but i'm pretty sure its expected in a cold transmission (and engine). It shifts fine when warm. Should I drop the pan, and change the filter then perform the flush - or just go straight ahead and flush the tranny without touching the pan. Tranny has an unknown history of the last ATF change, but it's overdue since i've had the truck since 2012. Bought it with 150k, and now has 220k (its overdue by 2 drain and fill fluid services). The color of the fluid is still red (which is still fresh, so it's been changed before). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

(I already posted this photo in another forum).





________________________________

2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Package V6
Change the filter then use this transmission pan gasket when you go back together: Amazon.com: Fel-Pro TOS 18685 Automatic Transmission Gasket: Automotive
 
This was a dumb question :nono: I'll definitely change the filter as well. As said, do it once - do it right. On the 4x4, does the pan drop straight down, or do i have to remove the subframe?






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2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Package V6
 
This was a dumb question :nono: I'll definitely change the filter as well. As said, do it once - do it right. On the 4x4, does the pan drop straight down, or do i have to remove the subframe?






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2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Package V6
The pan drops straight down, but the transmission dip stick must be removed and the transmission dipstick tube must be separated
 
The pan drops straight down, but the transmission dip stick must be removed and the transmission dipstick tube must be separated

Well, sort of. I highly recommend getting the sway bar out of the way and THEN it can drop straight down.

Because of the unknown service history, I'd go ahead and drop the pan and replace the filter. Make sure to get the right filter for your year and trim model. There are some differences with the filters.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tuGazNhuEtM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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It should be noted that you can simply undue the anti-sway bar links at either end and pivot the anti-sway bar out of the way. Also I just did this job on my truck and bought a new Filter as per Tims (mtbtim) suggestion, my tube halves where seized together so vice grips twisted them loose and they got a new o-ring. You don't need a pan gasket, I just used permatex ULTRA grey, used it on many Mitsubishi turbocharged cars many times, 4R 3rd members, oil pans, trans pans, manual transmission halves, transfer case haves, snowmobile 2 stroke case halves, oil filter housings, never a leak 5-10 years later, the stuff works well, not sure why some suggested permatex "right stuff" it's to runny, and don't use the aviation stuff as that is meant to come apart often for servicing/inspection. Pull the pan Tims video is excellent for a walk through of the process.
 
Do you have to !

600k mi on two 340F's, 96Red 374k dropped pan @125k screen/magnets good 1st last time,
01 219k she's a virgin, when I do shift kit we'll see.

Nothing wrong doing this preventitive maint, I'm sure results vary. Other things I'd rather do than pull either pan, I change fluid more than needed.
 

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