Do my shocks/struts/rack need replacing? Two pics

[duke808]

2000 4R with 96k.

I had my car in for an inspection a couple weeks ago. they took these pictures and attached them on the email inspection report. said I should replace my tie rod ends and replace rack and pinion. I can change oil and brakes but don't know jack beyond that. the car is somewhat bouncy too on fwy going 80 over big bumps.

from these photos, do (whatever these are) look worn to where I need to replace? they also mentioned ball joints needing replacing down the line. what should I replace for SAFETY purposes? I don't really care about anything else as long as it's safe. not trying to drop 2 grand on suspension or have the best handling ride. thanks!!

 

[RedSled]

I would do the BJs first, for safety, and then the bushings.

 

[duke808]

I would do the BJs first, for safety, and then the bushings.

just so I know, anybody know a good price range for ball joints? with labor? won't attempt those on my own!

 

[duke808]

PS this is it, got her 4 weeks ago now. happy first month together :eyebrows:

 

[stir_fry_boy]

2000 4R with 96k.

I had my car in for an inspection a couple weeks ago. they took these pictures and attached them on the email inspection report. said I should replace my tie rod ends and replace rack and pinion. I can change oil and brakes but don't know jack beyond that. the car is somewhat bouncy too on fwy going 80 over big bumps.

from these photos, do (whatever these are) look worn to where I need to replace? they also mentioned ball joints needing replacing down the line. what should I replace for SAFETY purposes? I don't really care about anything else as long as it's safe. not trying to drop 2 grand on suspension or have the best handling ride. thanks!!

The first picture are the sway bar link bushings. Those go bad frequently. They are 2$ at the dealer. That's not the tie rod end.

Second picture doesn't help much as far as diagnosing the rack. Usually they leak from the boots covering the inner tie rod end. You can't see that from your picture.

From the second picture you can see the lower ball joint but not much of it.

Definitely do your lower ball joints for safety. Only OEM. People have had issues with other brands, they don't last

 

[UnderFire]

Lower ball joints for safety, bushings because they're like 40$ in parts

 

[gamefreakgc]

Do your front and rear while you are at it. The fronts have the 4 washer-type bushings and one large "D" shaped bushing. I just took the whole sway bar off (the large metal bar attached in the first pic), makes it easier. Rears are the same but some models the sway bar does not come out. Will take out a whole lot of body roll that you are experiencing.

 

[ATX-Runner]

Looks like the shop told you one thing and showed you another. Like what was said by stir_fry_boy, First pic is sway bar end links. For the second pic, If they are telling you to replace the rack because of a what looks to be worn bushing don't go back there. There is a bushing kit you can get at wheelers off road and plenty of how to threads here. I also agree with replacing the LBJ's.

 

[duke808]

thanks for all the replies! I will go ahead and try to get the lbj's done for now. I'll probably take it to evan's tires or something, not to that shop. they wanted $750 for idle air control replacement..... I think I'll try and do that myself. they also wanted to replace my valve cover gasket because "we think it might be leaking, but we don't know for sure." :dizzy:

 

[TinBucket]

Any reason to do toyota bushings vs the urethane ones found on amazon?
Mine look about 10x worse than ops.

Also, given it's "bouncy" it probably does need shocks. but that's not something can capture on photo

 

[Rock_Rat]

Yup, LBJ's and a radiator flush. I would recommend Toyota Red (that's all the dealers will use on these) if it doesn't already have it in there. You might consider installing a tranny cooler as preventive mtx and/or replacing your radiator. It's probably good but it is old. It's a small investment to save your transmission.

The only reason for OEM is they're proven to last a long time. Poly's are good too but have a tendency to squeak. Matter of preference. You can never go wrong with OEM.

Can't believe that rig only has 96K on it. Amazing. Take good care of it and it will last you a long time.

 

[Rock_Rat]

thanks for all the replies! I will go ahead and try to get the lbj's done for now. I'll probably take it to evan's tires or something, not to that shop. they wanted $750 for idle air control replacement..... I think I'll try and do that myself. they also wanted to replace my valve cover gasket because "we think it might be leaking, but we don't know for sure." :dizzy:

Honestly, if you have some basic mechanical ability and common tools you can do the LBJ's and the valve covers yourself. Tons of DIY threads and videos on here.

 

[duke808]

Yup, LBJ's and a radiator flush. I would recommend Toyota Red (that's all the dealers will use on these) if it doesn't already have it in there. You might consider installing a tranny cooler as preventive mtx and/or replacing your radiator. It's probably good but it is old. It's a small investment to save your transmission.

The only reason for OEM is they're proven to last a long time. Poly's are good too but have a tendency to squeak. Matter of preference. You can never go wrong with OEM.

Can't believe that rig only has 96K on it. Amazing. Take good care of it and it will last you a long time.

ya I'm shocked! i had to jump on it right when I saw it. so I did. the guy had 3 or 4 others lined up but I knew another like this wouldn't come up. I'm going to take it in this week for LBJ. any idea how much this will cost roughly? I'll look into the DIY and see how it looks.

tempted to take it to a toyota dealer, but I'm not sure if they're as high-priced as the BMW dealer is with my car. I tend to stray away from dealers now! insane how much dealers mark everything up! I have heard about the pink milkshake looking tranny fluid too (I think) so maybe I should have them check that. the first owner maintained this thing flawlessly at the toyota dealer up until 60k. from there till 94 I'm not sure.

 

[Beaumont67]

ya I'm shocked! i had to jump on it right when I saw it. so I did. the guy had 3 or 4 others lined up but I knew another like this wouldn't come up. I'm going to take it in this week for LBJ. any idea how much this will cost roughly? I'll look into the DIY and see how it looks.

tempted to take it to a toyota dealer, but I'm not sure if they're as high-priced as the BMW dealer is with my car. I tend to stray away from dealers now! insane how much dealers mark everything up! I have heard about the pink milkshake looking tranny fluid too (I think) so maybe I should have them check that. the first owner maintained this thing flawlessly at the toyota dealer up until 60k. from there till 94 I'm not sure.

duke808 - nice Limited, you got there.
- I've never replaced a steering rack, unless seals go & its leaking oil

I got my SR5 in January / my garage friend, also owns the used car lot & found me a good one.
He put on MOOG Ball Joints among doing other repairs, to pass the Provincial safety check here / all included in purchase price.
- but the MOOG BJ's, were Made in China / overpriced now

I avoid Dealerships, at all costs / find a reliable small shop you can trust.
Case in Point:
1996 Jeep XJ Cherokee: Got upper & lower ball joint kit (all 4 pieces), from Prime Choice out of Ottawa (1-866-990-3871)
- for $50.01 plus $6 shipping...next day delivery. (PS - BJ Kit was $24.21 US$)

- independent garage, installed BJ's in 4 hours labor Total parts & labor, under $400 spent / dealer wanted $1,100 including 6 hours shop time....so a $700 BJ savings, sourcing own parts & using a trusted mechanic (only one guy, wrenches my vehicles / retired from Military)

Last MOOG I bought from NAPA/UAP, was Made in China / no longer paying top dollar, for their stuff...more than pleased, with purchase.
^^ On a 3rd Gen 4Runner, I would source OEM-Toyota brand BJ's next time / my repair cost, illustrates repair cost differences.

Photo Link> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

 

[stir_fry_boy]

duke808 - nice Limited, you got there.
- I've never replaced a steering rack, unless seals go & its leaking oil

I got my SR5 in January / my garage friend, also owns the used car lot & found me a good one.
He put on MOOG Ball Joints among doing other repairs, to pass the Provincial safety check here / all included in purchase price.
- but the MOOG BJ's, were Made in China / overpriced now

I avoid Dealerships, at all costs / find a reliable small shop you can trust.
Case in Point:
1996 Jeep XJ Cherokee: Got upper & lower ball joint kit (all 4 pieces), from Prime Choice out of Ottawa (1-866-990-3871)
- for $50.01 plus $6 shipping...next day delivery.

- independent garage, installed BJ's in 4 hours labor Total parts & labour, under $400 spent / dealer wanted $1,100....so a $700 savings.

Last MOOG I bought from NAPA/UAP, was Made in China / no longer paying top dollar, for their stuff...more than pleased, with purchase.

Photo Link> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

In most cases, aftermarket Moog will last in most applications other than a T4R. However, there are lots of members who stated that after putting Moog ball joints in, they lasted 10K miles and they were shot. OEM lasts a lot longer. It's not worth the hassle or risking your life to go aftermarket on LBJs on these trucks. You don't necessarily have to have the dealership do the work, just someone you trust and know that they will only use OEM parts. Do a search if you wish.

 

[duke808]

I called up two shops today and they want around $450 + alignment. Is this fair? OEM parts.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I called up two shops today and they want around $450 + alignment. Is this fair? OEM parts.

For what exactly?

 

[LV2001BI]

Urethane frt & rear sway bar bushings

2000 4R with 96k.

I had my car in for an inspection a couple weeks ago. they took these pictures and attached them on the email inspection report. said I should replace my tie rod ends and replace rack and pinion. I can change oil and brakes but don't know jack beyond that. the car is somewhat bouncy too on fwy going 80 over big bumps.

from these photos, do (whatever these are) look worn to where I need to replace? they also mentioned ball joints needing replacing down the line. what should I replace for SAFETY purposes? I don't really care about anything else as long as it's safe. not trying to drop 2 grand on suspension or have the best handling ride. thanks!!

Before you buy either prothane or energy system urethane bushings make sure to measure your sway bars for correct diameter size that includes the threaded bolt which holds down the end link bushings. Prothane has the right size but you need to make sure the vendor from Amazon is aware the hole for the end bushing is 10mm & NOT 15mm ( front). I bought a set and had to call the vendor good thing he was willing to work with me and get prothane to mail me the correct bushings. Here is the vendor if you want to call them direct:

Eric Holdaway
Speaker Works, Inc
Ike’s Parts Place
www.usdaudio.com
http://stores.ebay.com/Ikes-Parts-Place
714-997-9880
Tell Eric the bushing is for 2000 4 runner
Here is the info from Ike's along with my order # with correct info:
Order ID 104-7911741-7613812:
1 of Prothane 18-1115 Red 26 mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit [ASIN: B00386UHWY]