Dobinsin’s Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Links - Installed

Recently I have been doing small, fairly inexpensive projects to improve the handling of my truck. As we all know, the nose dive and body roll on stock suspension is terrible....and the bump steer and wind shear are just as bad. Most any aftermarket shock and apring will fix the nose dive and will also help some with body roll, but what else can we do?

The beginning of my project list added urethane sway bar bushings and durobump bumpstops front and rear. The sway bushings indeed helped with flatter cornering. They also seemed to help with bump steer and wind shear to an extent. The truck drives perfectly straight now at highway speeds with very little input. Thats surprising considering the fact that 4runners really have to be DRIVEN in stock form. I have two more upgrades on my to do list and the first of those I got done today. Tomorrow I am installing a panhard correction bracket.

Rear Adjustable Sway Bar Links:

Why?
The sway bar is attached by a link that is bolted to the frame on each end. Two more attachment brackets with bushings are bolted to the rear axle. When a truck is lifted, the axle drops away from the frame by the lift height and leaves the sway bar ends pulled up toward the links and the links themselves are pulled at an odd angle, or maybe even bend. At these angles, the sway bar cannot provide as much function compared to the factory position. The fix is to use a longer link to return the bar to its stock orientation.

There are many options for longer links. For instance, a 2nd Gen 4runner rear sway bar link is an inch longer than the 5th gen link. Some folks have used aftermarket 2nd gen links from amazon made by Moog Industries. They are very inexpensive and will work, but the reviews are terrible. Rusting, bending, breaking etc. so I looked into Genuine Toyota 2nd gen links. They are no beefier than 5th gen links and are not adjustable. And the ones I found were $75 each. This would have worked I suppose, but at $150 for the pair, I can get beefier links that are adjustable.

Dobinson’s adjustable rear sway bar links.

These were on back order when I placed the order, but arrived at least two weeks earlier than I was expecting. Dobinsons Mike answered a couple emails pertaining to the order promptly and even changed my shipping address after I learned of an extended delivery date. It was a smooth, informed, painless purchase.

On to the good stuff....
 
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I took a few measurements before the install...

I am running the 3” version of the Old Man Emu Nitro chrged shock lift.

I measured a rear lift height of 2.5”. That is 24” from fender edge to wheel center. A stock t4r measures in at 21.5”. So ideally, you would divide the lift height by half and add that amount, 1-1/4” in my case, to the link length. This will put the sway bar position back flat like it was originally built, but theres one problem with that. The lower arm is directly under the sway link, so going too low may cause contact when stuffing a rear wheel offroad. Thats the bad news. The good news is that it adds, theoretically, 2.5” additional droop when flexing offroad. So, instead of the droop being limited by the sway bar, it will allow full shock extension.

In a nutshell, I did not add 1 1/4 “ in length. I only added 1”, as I dont want to see any contact offroad with the lower arm. I may do more adjusting once I am able to see whats going on when fully stuffed, but thats where I landed for now, and I have 2” between the lower arm and link end. The stock link is 7” from end to center of the bottom knuckle. I set mine at 8”. The install was done in about an hour, without removing the wheels or jacking the vehicle up. Easy peesy.

Tools required:
17mm 3/8 drive ratchet
17mm ratcheting box end wrench
12mm ratcheting wrench
13mm ratcheting wrench
Channel lock pliers
Measuring tape

Photos:
The Dobinsons Link
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Factory link before removal. You can see the extreme upward angle of the sway bar end and how it is pulling the link toward the axle.
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Side by side...Dobinsons Link at top

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Stock link = 7” length

i-q5DGP2F-M.jpg


Dobinsons adjusted to 8”

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It looked entirely possible for this brake cable to contact the sway bar link end on uptravel, so I bent it a out farther to the side.
i-vmzzN7D-M.jpg


Dobinsons installation complete. Not a perfectly flat bar end, but it will get a bit flatter when loaded and is much better than the position is was in with stock link.
i-xLBC3pB-M.jpg


EDIT TO UPDATE:

I had an opportunity today to fully flex the rear suspension. Fully flexed there is a good 3/4” or 1” clearance between the lower arm and link end so I will be good to go with extending the links the 1/4” additional length that I need.
i-qHvbX2h-M.jpg


i-wBNxrbM-M.jpg


i-75zzrqt-M.jpg
 
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Dang I clicked the link in your 1st post b/c I wanted to see how much those suckers cost & it took me to mazda sway bar links hahaa. Anyways, I want!! My OEM bolts on my links look super corroded. Yours come off pretty easy?

Oh:
Dobinsons Extended Rear Swaybar End Link Kit for Toyota 4Runner 2003 to 2018, FJ Cruiser SE59-529 - Dobinsons Direct

I had no issues at all. I recomment Sea Foam Deep Creep for siezed bolts though.

The site somehow creates weird links on its own accord sometimes.
 
Nice write up. I was about to say "here's another way to spend my money" but the Dobinsons site says these won't work with KDSS. I wonder why and if the KDSS system adjusts more than non-KDSS and doesn't need it.
 
Nice write up. I was about to say "here's another way to spend my money" but the Dobinsons site says these won't work with KDSS. I wonder why and if the KDSS system adjusts more than non-KDSS and doesn't need it.

I have no idea. Thatd a great question though.
 

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