Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

[Crikeymike]

Hey Mike,

I’m interested in your UCA, here’s my set up:
Wheels: 18x9, 0mm offset, 5”back spacing
Tires: 285/65r18


Would your UCA work for this set up?

Thanks!

Hey man. Are you already running those wheels and tires now? If they work with the UCA's you've got, then you'll definitely be fine with Dobinsons. These UCA's have a lot of clearance from the tire, as the ball joint cup is less than 1/2" from the edge of the ball joint, not nearly as far as an OE UCA with that thicker part of stamped steel, so this gives more tire clearance.

I still have yet to see anyone have a tire clearance issue with the Dobinsons UCA's and their tires, but most know that to run a wider tire you need a better offset wheel. It's wider tires on stock wheels that can lead to the most clearance issues.

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] So I'm trying to see if my possible set up is on the right track. I'm currently running 5100's front and rear with stock coils and I'm looking to purchase front and rear bumpers very soon. I know I need to upgrade my coils before doing so. After reading through this thread I'm thinking of going with 314's in front and 329's in the rear. I have a 2016/non kdss, I haven't seen to many people with this exact set-up so I'm wondering if I'm on the right track and what else I may need or if you have any other suggestions. Thanks

Hey bud. That could be right, but I'd need to know the weight of the bumper and anything else that goes along with them to check for the best coil options.

And also to know what lift height you're shooting for when it's all said and done.

 

[Crikeymike]

Has anyone run these rear shock guards on their twintube set up?

2010-2019 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner - Lower Shock Guard - Pair – Rago Fabrication

Trying to reduce the amount of rocks flinging at the shock body. Pretty beat now and rusty

There was someone on the forum running those with the Dobinsons rear shocks, but I have no idea now who it was. They're compatible I'm sure. My only issue with them is the $150 price tag, plus they don't go up the body of the shock very far. They're prone to the same stone damage as the shocks, so you're essentially saving the finish of the shocks but beating up the finish of the shock guards. I think the shock guards are a good idea for those who might hit the shock mount very often.

$150 for shock guards or $230 for a pair of new shocks if you ever needed them? I'd probably save the money.

Someone else was going to build "shock mud flaps" that would mount off the lower control arm, but again, I can't remember who that was either. haha
rear shoks damaged by stones off front wheels | IH8MUD Forum

 

[SpeedyKevin]

There was someone on the forum running those with the Dobinsons rear shocks, but I have no idea now who it was. They're compatible I'm sure. My only issue with them is the $150 price tag, plus they don't go up the body of the shock very far. They're prone to the same stone damage as the shocks, so you're essentially saving the finish of the shocks but beating up the finish of the shock guards. I think the shock guards are a good idea for those who might hit the shock mount very often.

$150 for shock guards or $230 for a pair of new shocks if you ever needed them? I'd probably save the money.

Someone else was going to build "shock mud flaps" that would mount off the lower control arm, but again, I can't remember who that was either. haha
rear shoks damaged by stones off front wheels | IH8MUD Forum

Just wanted to get the most life out of them haha. Surface rust shouldnt affect durability I think. May just use rubber floor matting zipped tied to the top guard.

 

[ERMBPA]

Hey bud. That could be right, but I'd need to know the weight of the bumper and anything else that goes along with them to check for the best coil options.

And also to know what lift height you're shooting for when it's all said and done.

Hey Mike thanks for the quick reply! Top of my list is C4Fab for both front and rear. Front would be 140+ winch and rear would be 235+tire and rotos.
I'm looking for about 2.5-2.75 up front and retain rake in the rear. I do pull a pop-up camper in the summer and a small utility trailer from time to time as well. Not all is going on at once, rear will come first then front probably next in the spring. So I'd be without load in the front for a little while.

 

[DanYaj]

Hey man. Are you already running those wheels and tires now? If they work with the UCA's you've got, then you'll definitely be fine with Dobinsons. These UCA's have a lot of clearance from the tire, as the ball joint cup is less than 1/2" from the edge of the ball joint, not nearly as far as an OE UCA with that thicker part of stamped steel, so this gives more tire clearance.

I still have yet to see anyone have a tire clearance issue with the Dobinsons UCA's and their tires, but most know that to run a wider tire you need a better offset wheel. It's wider tires on stock wheels that can lead to the most clearance issues.

Mike, Thanks! Just doing the rough math I think it'll clear as the tires a bit smaller than 285/70/17. No I do not have these tires/wheel installed right now. I just bought a 2/1inch lift and will buy UCA and tires/wheels next. Any deals for the 4th of July coming up?

 

[Crikeymike]

Hey Mike thanks for the quick reply! Top of my list is C4Fab for both front and rear. Front would be 140+ winch and rear would be 235+tire and rotos.
I'm looking for about 2.5-2.75 up front and retain rake in the rear. I do pull a pop-up camper in the summer and a small utility trailer from time to time as well. Not all is going on at once, rear will come first then front probably next in the spring. So I'd be without load in the front for a little while.

OK, 314's will be ok up front.

329's with a full rear bumper and regular towing would work out fine. It's a little on the heavier side for that amount of weight, so it would just lift a little more. Expect about 2.5" in the rear with those and the rear bumper.

 

[Crikeymike]

Mike, Thanks! Just doing the rough math I think it'll clear as the tires a bit smaller than 285/70/17. No I do not have these tires/wheel installed right now. I just bought a 2/1inch lift and will buy UCA and tires/wheels next. Any deals for the 4th of July coming up?

No plans on a sale for UCA's anytime soon. Can't keep them in stock enough as it is.

 

[ERMBPA]

OK, 314's will be ok up front.

329's with a full rear bumper and regular towing would work out fine. It's a little on the heavier side for that amount of weight, so it would just lift a little more. Expect about 2.5" in the rear with those and the rear bumper.

Excellent! Thanks for all the info! So it sounds like I'll be getting about 2.5 out of each, does that mean I'll still have a bit of Rake left over to account for towing ? would you recommend UCA's with this lift or is this under the cut-off?

 

[Crikeymike]

Excellent! Thanks for all the info! So it sounds like I'll be getting about 2.5 out of each, does that mean I'll still have a bit of Rake left over to account for towing ? would you recommend UCA's with this lift or is this under the cut-off?

You'll technically be under the cutoff and be able to get a factory alignment, but more caster would be ideal with new UCA's. Something to save for and add when you can. New UCA's will also help get the full range of wheel travel.

 

[FishNerd]

Hi Mike,

Looking for an overall 3in lift i currently have around 400lbs up front (sliders, front bumper, winch) and about 100-150lbs in the rear.

will this combo work:

Front
C59-302
GS59-574

Rear
C59-675V
GS59-701

Thank you!

 

[Crikeymike]

Hi Mike,

Looking for an overall 3in lift i currently have around 400lbs up front (sliders, front bumper, winch) and about 100-150lbs in the rear.

will this combo work:

Front
C59-302
GS59-574

Rear
C59-675V
GS59-701

Thank you!

Might need a little more spring than that up front. What actual bumper, winch and skids do you have? Might need 350 or 352 front coils as you might be over 250lbs up there

 

[FishNerd]

Might need a little more spring than that up front. What actual bumper, winch and skids do you have? Might need 350 or 352 front coils as you might be over 250lbs up there

I have a C4 low pro (75lbs) Warn Zeon 10s (80lbs) and Artec Belly Pan (roughly 60lbs up front) = 215lbs font, My original calc I was including my sliders and trans skids= another 200ish lbs

the other question is more on the rear the C59-675V looks like a 3in coil, is that compatible with the GS59-701 its extended travel but only looks to be 2.5in?

Thank you so much!

 

[Sea_ledford]

Up front I have C59-314 / GS59-700 and an SSO slimline bumper and warn EVO10s winch, I think the weight difference over stock is about 120 lbs. I've had it all installed for about six months now, and I'm still sitting at a 3" lift. I was at 3.5 before installing the bumper and winch.

I was hoping for 2-2.5, so I wouldn't have to go with an after market UCA, but I haven't been able to get caster into spec as is. An upgraded UCA isn't a huge deal, but is there anything else I need to be concerned with at 3"? CV angle still good at 3"? I'm unsure how to measure that.

Trying to figure out if throwing more money at stuff to fix it will be more or less expensive/complicated than just swapping out springs.

 

[Crikeymike]

I have a C4 low pro (75lbs) Warn Zeon 10s (80lbs) and Artec Belly Pan (roughly 60lbs up front) = 215lbs font, My original calc I was including my sliders and trans skids= another 200ish lbs

the other question is more on the rear the C59-675V looks like a 3in coil, is that compatible with the GS59-701 its extended travel but only looks to be 2.5in?

Thank you so much!

The 314 coils will work for that front weight. If you plan to add more front weight, I'd suggest the 353.

Yes the 701 shocks can be used with the 675V rear coils

 

[Crikeymike]

Up front I have C59-314 / GS59-700 and an SSO slimline bumper and warn EVO10s winch, I think the weight difference over stock is about 120 lbs. I've had it all installed for about six months now, and I'm still sitting at a 3" lift. I was at 3.5 before installing the bumper and winch.

I was hoping for 2-2.5, so I wouldn't have to go with an after market UCA, but I haven't been able to get caster into spec as is. An upgraded UCA isn't a huge deal, but is there anything else I need to be concerned with at 3"? CV angle still good at 3"? I'm unsure how to measure that.

Trying to figure out if throwing more money at stuff to fix it will be more or less expensive/complicated than just swapping out springs.

There's no way you should have that amount of lift with those parts and that weight installed.

What are your front hub to fender measurements?

Cv angle is probably fine. Post up a level photo of it so I can see.

 

[Sea_ledford]

There's no way you should have that amount of lift with those parts and that weight installed.

What are your front hub to fender measurements?

Cv angle is probably fine. Post up a level photo of it so I can see.

Just measured front hub to fender is 22.5/22.75 driver/passenger.

My pre-lift measurements were 19.5/20, fresh suspension install (no bumper or winch) was 23/24.5 (not sure I trust that 24.5, might have been a typo on the spread sheet, but this was literally after five miles of driving after the install).

After fresh bumper/winch install (Jan 7) was 22.5/23, and hasn't really dropped since then.

The ride is great! Just a little higher than I was expecting.

 

[cmilviper]

Just measured front hub to fender is 22.5/22.75 driver/passenger.

My pre-lift measurements were 19.5/20, fresh suspension install (no bumper or winch) was 23/24.5 (not sure I trust that 24.5, might have been a typo on the spread sheet, but this was literally after five miles of driving after the install).

After fresh bumper/winch install (Jan 7) was 22.5/23, and hasn't really dropped since then.

The ride is great! Just a little higher than I was expecting.

Look's good! I'd leave it as is......Still have a decent rake for trips/loads in the rear.

 

[SpeedyKevin]

Just wanted to get the most life out of them haha. Surface rust shouldnt affect durability I think. May just use rubber floor matting zipped tied to the top guard.

There was someone on the forum running those with the Dobinsons rear shocks, but I have no idea now who it was. They're compatible I'm sure. My only issue with them is the $150 price tag, plus they don't go up the body of the shock very far. They're prone to the same stone damage as the shocks, so you're essentially saving the finish of the shocks but beating up the finish of the shock guards. I think the shock guards are a good idea for those who might hit the shock mount very often.

$150 for shock guards or $230 for a pair of new shocks if you ever needed them? I'd probably save the money.

Someone else was going to build "shock mud flaps" that would mount off the lower control arm, but again, I can't remember who that was either. haha
rear shoks damaged by stones off front wheels | IH8MUD Forum

My abused 705s ahaha. Still loving em and will one day replace with the ims 701s. I don't know how folks with exposed rear shafts do it (monotubes without boots).

 

[Crikeymike]

Just measured front hub to fender is 22.5/22.75 driver/passenger.

My pre-lift measurements were 19.5/20, fresh suspension install (no bumper or winch) was 23/24.5 (not sure I trust that 24.5, might have been a typo on the spread sheet, but this was literally after five miles of driving after the install).

After fresh bumper/winch install (Jan 7) was 22.5/23, and hasn't really dropped since then.

The ride is great! Just a little higher than I was expecting.

22.5" is an average for what I'd call 2.5" of lift up front. 23" hub to fender would be 3". You're right about where I'd expect you to be, maybe a fraction taller.

Any IFS with brand new front suspension won't measure properly until the new suspension has settled which takes a few hundred miles (should be fully settled after 500 miles). Even if you take your car right now, lift it in the air and lower it back down without driving it, it will sit higher because of the way the tires "grab" the ground. Gotta always put some miles on before measuring the new height.