Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yeah, you can adjust them to get the height you want. You could use the 314 coils which are just taller than the 302's, but by adjusting the coil seat height, you'd end up with the same result anyway.
Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad
- Thread starter Crikeymike
- Start date
808Keith
New member
That’s what I thought. Just thought I’d ask to ease my mind. [emoji1686] thank you.
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CharlesNellis
New member
Here's the stance with Bilstein 5100s all around set at 1.75 front, and Dobinsons 1.25" lift rear springs(c59 599). Also the air lift 1000 air bags for the stock springs fit in the new Dobinsons springs.
Before and after
Before and after
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@jrfordlandia
New member
Hey Mike [MENTION=148378]DobinsonsUSA[/MENTION] should I pick up longer bump stops for front and/or rear with the 302/505 lift?
Crikeymike
Senior Member
No, they're really not necessary at that height.
Chris In Milwaukee
New member
I'm orchestrating my upgrade path and lift needs to come before some other accessories (bumpers, skids, etc.). If one is expecting a 150-pound bumper in the front and a 200-pound bumper in the back, should one plan to build that suspension? I'm curious if the vehicle would be uncomfortable, or worse yet dangerous, if it was suspended for a future state without it actually being so equipped.
The front has the largest priority, obviously because it's the most difficult to work on, and I'd expect a front bumper to come along very shortly after a suspension upgrade. Rear bumper not as soon.
Rear springs appear to be easy to swap when the time comes. Front struts, not so much.
The front has the largest priority, obviously because it's the most difficult to work on, and I'd expect a front bumper to come along very shortly after a suspension upgrade. Rear bumper not as soon.
Rear springs appear to be easy to swap when the time comes. Front struts, not so much.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
When adding considerable weight (like a front or rear bumper), it's best to do the suspension at the same time, or as close to the same time, as possible. Otherwise the coils selected to suit the extra weight will end of providing extra lift and being firmer than desired, not producing the correct ride quality.
But not everyone can do it all at once, which is totally understandable, so most would buy the suspension to suit their build plans, and live with the ride until they add those parts. BUT, if it's more than a year or something until you're going to save up and buy those bumpers, it's a year of not riding as good as it's supposed to, so that's something to keep in mind.
Mutant138
Banned
Beat up the suspension as much as I could the last month/1000k. So, it should be about as settled as it's going to get.
2.5" front - 1.75" rear.
I'm happy with everything for the most part. I was worried about camping loads making the rear sag if I level it. So, I went with c59-723 which I knew would potentially give me extra rake (which it did :/). I have found the extra height to be unnecessary as the coils do a far better job then stock of managing cargo loads. :shrug:
No offset coils (kdss) upfront only in the rear. As a result, rear is level but the front has a rather noticeable lean. The difference between fender measurements is almost an inch up front. I went with c59-302.
I plan on going steel up front asap so I'll realign and live with it till then. I will likely be leveling the truck at that time.
Like the ride alot. Much improved. Can't say that brake dive is gone but it's far more acceptable. It honestly feels like how the truck should have came.
I barely scrape the skids anymore on the trails I frequent in the desert which was really my main goal. Going to rock this for a bit but excited to see how it evolves.
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2.5" front - 1.75" rear.
I'm happy with everything for the most part. I was worried about camping loads making the rear sag if I level it. So, I went with c59-723 which I knew would potentially give me extra rake (which it did :/). I have found the extra height to be unnecessary as the coils do a far better job then stock of managing cargo loads. :shrug:
No offset coils (kdss) upfront only in the rear. As a result, rear is level but the front has a rather noticeable lean. The difference between fender measurements is almost an inch up front. I went with c59-302.
I plan on going steel up front asap so I'll realign and live with it till then. I will likely be leveling the truck at that time.
Like the ride alot. Much improved. Can't say that brake dive is gone but it's far more acceptable. It honestly feels like how the truck should have came.
I barely scrape the skids anymore on the trails I frequent in the desert which was really my main goal. Going to rock this for a bit but excited to see how it evolves.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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16RedRunner
New member
Even with the C59-314 you are running your 5100's at second notch?How is the ride the truck looks great!Front:
Bilstein 5100 @ 2nd notch
Dobinson C59-314
Rear:
Bilstein 5100
Dobinson C59-325
LF = 23" RF = 23.375"
LR = 24" RR = 24.25"
baldrik78
New member
I felt like 2.5" of lift up front wasn't enough with 2" in the rear - I think it was the right call to go up a notch and get the full 3" up front. Ride is great. Maybe a bit firmer than the stock coils.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Keep in mind, he has a slimline bumper and winch up front, adding some weight.
The_Runner
New member
The 4Runner only has two coils you have to pay for. What’s the adjustable pan hard rod though?
Cymon
New member
You need 4 coils (as they are listed b/c that’s what they call springs in Australia). Two to go over the front struts to make the front “coil over” and two to pair with the rear shocks (replace your OEM Springs). An adjustable pan hard rod helps keep the rear axle centered. As you lift your 4runner the geometry changes and can push your rear axle out of alignment (with the OEM fixed length panhard rod. Under 2.5 inches of rear lift you may not notice a difference or need it but over that height it will help lining everything back up.
Some notes from mine that might help folks deciding whats needed/not needed on different set ups.
Went 302/505 springs with 700/701 shocks and UCAs. Stock wheels and falken 265/70r17 didnt need spacers with plenty of clearance with UCAs and no rubbing anywhere. Have the diff drop but probably wont install unless CVs start going. Only weight added is RSG sliders. Alignment was dead on and no issues. For install the passenger UCA didnt have enough space between the bushings to fit so had to grind a few millimeters, not sure if that will cause issues later. Also nut to attach abs sensor wire was missing. Other than those two issues everything was pretty easy.
Final result is 4Runner that no longer has the nose dive and sloppy sway but still very comfortable to drive. Noticeably softer than my OME'd tacoma. Drove very well on some bad roads this weekend and should be a nice set up for daily driver during the week and mild off roading on the weekends.
Went 302/505 springs with 700/701 shocks and UCAs. Stock wheels and falken 265/70r17 didnt need spacers with plenty of clearance with UCAs and no rubbing anywhere. Have the diff drop but probably wont install unless CVs start going. Only weight added is RSG sliders. Alignment was dead on and no issues. For install the passenger UCA didnt have enough space between the bushings to fit so had to grind a few millimeters, not sure if that will cause issues later. Also nut to attach abs sensor wire was missing. Other than those two issues everything was pretty easy.
Final result is 4Runner that no longer has the nose dive and sloppy sway but still very comfortable to drive. Noticeably softer than my OME'd tacoma. Drove very well on some bad roads this weekend and should be a nice set up for daily driver during the week and mild off roading on the weekends.
Attachments
I’m going with the same set up; order delayed because of choosing red coils. Same tires too.
How’s the rake? I’m on the fence about changing the rear coils to the 325s (2 - 2.25”). Just in case I add a heavier fuel tank skid. Would that look odd with 265 tires?
Thanks!
Mutant138
Banned
CURRENT SETUP:
c59-302 Front
c59-723 Rear
Decided I'm really not into the rake for several reasons. Least important but, most annoying to me is the way it looks. So, I'm going to accelerate the changes to the front end, and hold off on other armor.
Not really sure which one (everything is a compromise one way or another) but I'm going to put a steel bumper and a winch. Likely C4's hybrid.
[MENTION=148378]DobinsonsUSA[/MENTION]
I rather like the height in the rear and I would like to level the front to match the rear (also compensate for KDSS lean i still have up front).
C59-726 paired with a LT strut like the 5100? Could I keep the front springs (assuming I don't add the steel and winch) on my current setup swap out the struts for 5100's and bring it up a notch or two? What are my options here?
Thanks
c59-302 Front
c59-723 Rear
Decided I'm really not into the rake for several reasons. Least important but, most annoying to me is the way it looks. So, I'm going to accelerate the changes to the front end, and hold off on other armor.
Not really sure which one (everything is a compromise one way or another) but I'm going to put a steel bumper and a winch. Likely C4's hybrid.
[MENTION=148378]DobinsonsUSA[/MENTION]
I rather like the height in the rear and I would like to level the front to match the rear (also compensate for KDSS lean i still have up front).
C59-726 paired with a LT strut like the 5100? Could I keep the front springs (assuming I don't add the steel and winch) on my current setup swap out the struts for 5100's and bring it up a notch or two? What are my options here?
Thanks
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JP421
New member
Just put on a full steel rear bumper with all the addons. That'll level it out.
Mutant138
Banned
It's a thought. Could just sag the rear really bad causing me to swap the rear springs and then go back full circle to the same dilemma.
Also I'm going to go custom tube in the rear most likely. I'm not ready to be without my truck ATM.
16RedRunner
New member
Here's a question I have 5100's already.If I went with same setup he has but left the 5100 at 1st notch would I achieve the same look as his? I want a level look with as little rake as possible.
