Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

What's the difference in performance between the non-IMS vs IMS shocks/struts? Daily driver 95% of the time, 5% off roading on sand/gravel. Not really rock crawling. Trying to figure out if the $500 difference justifies the performance difference. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks
 
What's the difference in performance between the non-IMS vs IMS shocks/struts? Daily driver 95% of the time, 5% off roading on sand/gravel. Not really rock crawling. Trying to figure out if the $500 difference justifies the performance difference. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks
The IMS has bigger pistons and more oil inside, so it can stay at cooler temperatures for much longer than the twin tubes can. The fully threaded body on the front struts also dissipates heat faster, as they act like cooling fins. This makes them ideal for high speed offroad use, wherever the suspension will see a lot of cycling. With standard daily travel, you wouldn't see much benefit from them, but if you like to go fast offroad, these truly shine in that environment.

Plus the feature of full height adjustability in the front is great for people who aren't sure if they'll want to change the height up front at some point after adding additional weight to the truck.
 
Hey Mike, what would you say is too high of a temp for the shocks? Haven't had any issues with fade but like seeing how hard I can push these twintubes.
 
Hey Mike, what would you say is too high of a temp for the shocks? Haven't had any issues with fade but like seeing how hard I can push these twintubes.
That's a question I've never been asked before! I don't think there's a scale for it really.

I know the shocks are tough as nails and can take corrugations for a full day of driving in the Australian outback, so they'd be pretty toasty after that!!
 
That's a question I've never been asked before! I don't think there's a scale for it really.

I know the shocks are tough as nails and can take corrugations for a full day of driving in the Australian outback, so they'd be pretty toasty after that!!

If I find out for you and toast my shocks, will I get a free IMS for my service :DDD
 
I have been trying to figure out if my coils are normal.. 302's that seem to have a different paint job, one is slightly taller, and they look completely different when looking at a side shot. Anyone have a similar story to share?
 

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As many people have said before, can't thank Mike enough for the customer service he provided in this purchase process. I have looked up and down at a ton of different combinations of shocks/coils from multiple suspension brands, and I finally ordered my stuff today.

Mike spoke with me on the phone today for way longer than I'm sure he wanted to and walked me through every detail for my setup.

Just placed the order for my twin tube 302/700 in the front and 505/701 in the rear to go with my 275s. So stoked.

thanks Mike! :banana:
 
Can anyone tell me the difference in the GS59-701 rear shocks vs the 705 ? I understand the 705 has a softer valving for unloaded, but is there a noticeable difference ? Thanks. I’ve been through at least a 100 of these pages. Will be ordering a full setup this week while the discount is still going on ! Thanks !!
 
Can anyone tell me the difference in the GS59-701 rear shocks vs the 705 ? I understand the 705 has a softer valving for unloaded, but is there a noticeable difference ? Thanks. I’ve been through at least a 100 of these pages. Will be ordering a full setup this week while the discount is still going on ! Thanks !!

Ha - I was just going to ask the same question. I am sure it was covered in there somewhere, but my eyes are already blurry.
705's - softer - ideal for an empty vehicle with no constant weight
701's - "normal valving", this is what was designed for this vehicle with any loads

The 705's have softer slow speed compression valving, making it feel softer on small bumps and cracks in the road, etc. These would allow for more body roll on a vehicle with a roof rack or any constant weight.

The 701's were what was first designed for this vehicle platform. They're not as soft in slow speed compression.

High speed and rebound valving is basically the same between the 2 shocks, so offroad, you wouldn't notice much difference except for body roll of the 705's.

Now a vehicle with KDSS really doesn't have body roll hardly at all, so that's something else to consider.
 
Thanks Mike - great info as usual.

ETA - one more question on springs. I am running RCI steel skids (set of 3 plus the extra crossmember) and some sliders. Based on the weights I am thinking the 302 springs should net a little over 2 inches and 505 rear would be 1.25 or so. Is that about right? Thanks.
 
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705's - softer - ideal for an empty vehicle with no constant weight
701's - "normal valving", this is what was designed for this vehicle with any loads

The 705's have softer slow speed compression valving, making it feel softer on small bumps and cracks in the road, etc. These would allow for more body roll on a vehicle with a roof rack or any constant weight.

The 701's were what was first designed for this vehicle platform. They're not as soft in slow speed compression.

High speed and rebound valving is basically the same between the 2 shocks, so offroad, you wouldn't notice much difference except for body roll of the 705's.

Now a vehicle with KDSS really doesn't have body roll hardly at all, so that's something else to consider.
Thanks mike !
 
Thanks Mike - great info as usual.

ETA - one more question on springs. I am running RCI steel skids (set of 3 plus the extra crossmember) and some sliders. Based on the weights I am thinking the 302 springs should net a little over 2 inches and 505 rear would be 1.25 or so. Is that about right? Thanks.
That shouldn't drop the front too much because the weight is below and rearward of the front. It's not as bad as a bumper that adds leverage out past the front end. I'd say 2.25" on the front is what you'll end up with, maybe a fraction more.

Rear will still be 1.5"
 
That shouldn't drop the front too much because the weight is below and rearward of the front. It's not as bad as a bumper that adds leverage out past the front end. I'd say 2.25" on the front is what you'll end up with, maybe a fraction more.

Rear will still be 1.5"

Thanks again Mike. Order inbound shortly.
 
What kind of rake is everyone getting from 300/599 setups and 302/505 setups ? I was looking at Doing 302/599 for a leveled look. But I’m afraid if I load anything in the back at all if will sag? I will still be running 265’s so I don’t want it to look stupid either.
 
What kind of rake is everyone getting from 300/599 setups and 302/505 setups ? I was looking at Doing 302/599 for a leveled look. But I’m afraid if I load anything in the back at all if will sag? I will still be running 265’s so I don’t want it to look stupid either.

Here’s my 302/505. That’s straight after install. It’s settled a bit since then.

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After a bit of use:

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Still has a rake. Probably 1.5” or so if I had to guess.
 
Here is my Dobsinsons 302/505 setup w/ Dobinsons UCAs. Vehicle has around 3k miles on it since suspension went in so its settled. FX Pros with 285 AT3W's. Happy with the look!

I will say I was hoping for a bit softer ride which this did not achieve. Maybe 300's would ride better in front?

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What kind of rake is everyone getting from 300/599 setups and 302/505 setups ? I was looking at Doing 302/599 for a leveled look. But I’m afraid if I load anything in the back at all if will sag? I will still be running 265’s so I don’t want it to look stupid either.
Factory rake is 2"

If you lift the front only by 2", it's dead level, then adding 1" to the rear leaves 1" of rake.

302/599 will be about 1/2" of rake. ~200lbs of cargo weight will squat it that 1/2" then you'll be entering negative rake territory if you add more weight than that. The front would look very tall if you did 2.5" with 265's.
 

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