Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

[ryan89p]

As long as you order teal, as of right now there are plenty coming that aren't sold so you would get a set of those. First in, best dressed.

That is of course unless the ship doesn't sink from a megatsunami or something else. No guarantees for that reason.

Hey Mike, do you expect a good amount of teal 300s coming in on this shipment as well? It looks like all colors of the 300s are currently cleaned out on your site.

Thanks!

 

[Crikeymike]

Hey Mike, do you expect a good amount of teal 300s coming in on this shipment as well? It looks like all colors of the 300s are currently cleaned out on your site.

Thanks!

There are a few sets of C59-300 in teal still available coming at the end of June, but I expect those to be sold within the next week

 

[ryan89p]

There are a few sets of C59-300 in teal still available coming at the end of June, but I expect those to be sold within the next week

1 less - order placed! Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks for all the help in this thread.

(another thanks for the little memorial day sale to save a few bucks!)

 

[Gaswain13]

Finally got to put my suspension parts on this weekend. Went with the 314 coils on 700 struts up front and 325s with 701 shocks and adjustable sway bar links in the rear. In posts many pages back now mike convinced me to go with dirt king fab UCAs. I'm a very glad I did seeing how you still can't get the dobinson ones and the dirt kings are made in USA so aint got to wait on a boat ride. Ordered the shocks and springs like the last day of the November 2020 sale and got them late February. Ordered the dirt king UCAs mid March and had them in like 4 weeks. Was able to use a friend's branick strut compressor to assemble struts so it was pretty easy. Have put maybe 30 miles on it, hopefully will get it aligned later this week. So far I'm very happy, rides so much better, doesn't feel like it's going to face plant when braking now. Stock springs didn't seem to like the bumper weight. I will report back with measurements once it settles a bit, but roughly 3"/2" like listed in spring info. Yes current lead times suck, but dobinsons products seem very high quality and mike is awesome to work with.

 

[Gaswain13]

I have more pictures but they are over max file size. Here is one I could crop enough to upload.

 

[Crikeymike]

Finally got to put my suspension parts on this weekend. Went with the 314 coils on 700 struts up front and 325s with 701 shocks and adjustable sway bar links in the rear. In posts many pages back now mike convinced me to go with dirt king fab UCAs. I'm a very glad I did seeing how you still can't get the dobinson ones and the dirt kings are made in USA so aint got to wait on a boat ride. Ordered the shocks and springs like the last day of the November 2020 sale and got them late February. Ordered the dirt king UCAs mid March and had them in like 4 weeks. Was able to use a friend's branick strut compressor to assemble struts so it was pretty easy. Have put maybe 30 miles on it, hopefully will get it aligned later this week. So far I'm very happy, rides so much better, doesn't feel like it's going to face plant when braking now. Stock springs didn't seem to like the bumper weight. I will report back with measurements once it settles a bit, but roughly 3"/2" like listed in spring info. Yes current lead times suck, but dobinsons products seem very high quality and mike is awesome to work with.

Thanks for the summary. Yeah, getting parts has been absolutely ridiculous. Now we're finding that shipping to the port of Miami or Ft Lauderdale is getting too hard, so the parts might need to be shipped to other US ports that aren't as congested then shipped down to the warehouse in Miami. This all adds so much cost and time.

Glad you got it all on, the truck looks great!!

 

[Crikeymike]

Dobinsons UCA update!! The container is on the way and due right at the end of the month, so the first week or 2 of July, all pending backorders will be shipping out and there are a lot in the container also, so we can take new orders for them as well.

4Runner UCA's by Dobinsons also suit GX470 GX460 and FJ Cruiser

 

[Crikeymike]

Many people keep asking about stock.

There are a LOT of coils coming towards the end of this month and early/mid July. All of the rear 3" LT coils are sold out except the heaviest, but they are all coming in those containers.

 

[BlueRidge77]

This is kinda in line with a question i have, is it ok to run more than the 213mm preload height? I'm running the IMS setup with 302's and 50700s and am going to add a winch and lo pro. I feel like there's a lot of rake already (505s/50705's) and this is only going to make the difference more noticeable. I'd like to bump up the preload 6-10mm(on the shock) or so to compensate. I also have KDSS fwiw. The Dobinsons manual is pretty clear that 213mm is the number and it shouldn't be messed with. This whole thing is kinda funny because i was asking a while back about going lower than 213, now i want more, lol.

Since you have 505s in the rear, what is your hub to fender measurement? (Lean? Shims?) Also, what is the 302 hub to fender in the front? You have it set at 213mm?

I just installed my 302s and 505s on Thursday. I’ll post comprehensive info after everything is said and done and tweaked. But curious how long to wait for things to settle.

My rear was at 21.75” pre-lift so only .25” less than Dobinsons “baseline”. I assumed I would see 1.75” lift in the end which is fine. Maybe 2” on the absolute high side. Well, I’m sitting at 24” now. That’s 2” of lift over baseline which is .50” over spec. (2.25” of net lift for me which is too much.) From what I’ve read on various threads, I shouldn’t expect that much settlement. That’s too much variance in my opinion.

I’ve done some driving on rough gravel roads along with some interstate… it hasn’t been long though so I’ll keep checking. I had zero KDSS lean in the back pre lift. But reading the risk of lean, I went ahead and installed the spacer. Well, after lift I was 1/2” higher than drivers side so I already removed it. I’m still about 3/16” high on passengers side which is a little odd…tough to be too precise… Waiting to finalize my front settings until I know where the back ends up. I Intentionally set the seat/perch a bit high (216mm) so I could lower afterwards.). The front seems to be where it should and where I expected. I’m at 22.75” on the front both sides (and I have a shim on the passenger side. I had a bit of lean on the front).

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] - The first post of this thread says 2.5” or higher of lift in front - UCAs recommended. Is that 2.5” above baseline or 2.5” above where it sat pre-lift?

 

[MAST4R]

When I had Dobs front, they settled in under 100 miles. Thereafter, maybe 1/8, if that.

 

[Crikeymike]

Since you have 505s in the rear, what is your hub to fender measurement? (Lean? Shims?) Also, what is the 302 hub to fender in the front? You have it set at 213mm?

I just installed my 302s and 505s on Thursday. I’ll post comprehensive info after everything is said and done and tweaked. But curious how long to wait for things to settle.

My rear was at 21.75” pre-lift so only .25” less than Dobinsons “baseline”. I assumed I would see 1.75” lift in the end which is fine. Maybe 2” on the absolute high side. Well, I’m sitting at 24” now. That’s 2” of lift over baseline which is .50” over spec. (2.25” of net lift for me which is too much.) From what I’ve read on various threads, I shouldn’t expect that much settlement. That’s too much variance in my opinion.

I’ve done some driving on rough gravel roads along with some interstate… it hasn’t been long though so I’ll keep checking. I had zero KDSS lean in the back pre lift. But reading the risk of lean, I went ahead and installed the spacer. Well, after lift I was 1/2” higher than drivers side so I already removed it. I’m still about 3/16” high on passengers side which is a little odd…tough to be too precise… Waiting to finalize my front settings until I know where the back ends up. I Intentionally set the seat/perch a bit high (216mm) so I could lower afterwards.). The front seems to be where it should and where I expected. I’m at 22.75” on the front both sides (and I have a shim on the passenger side. I had a bit of lean on the front).

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] - The first post of this thread says 2.5” or higher of lift in front - UCAs recommended. Is that 2.5” above baseline or 2.5” above where it sat pre-lift?

The springs take at least a month of solid driving to settle in.

22.5" from hub to fender and higher, UCA's should really be used. Any lift of 2" or more will benefit from adding UCA's to correct the ball joint angle and also to help add more caster to the alignment.

 

[BlueRidge77]

The springs take at least a month of solid driving to settle in.

22.5" from hub to fender and higher, UCA's should really be used. Any lift of 2" or more will benefit from adding UCA's to correct the ball joint angle and also to help add more caster to the alignment.

Good to know about the month. Thanks.

I may go ahead and get UCAs then since I seriously doubt my front will be below 2”. I was shooting for 2.25” (go to about 210mm on perch)..

I will say, first impressions of this, which it’s still pretty early, is a little all over the place. It feels stiffer than what I was expecting but that may be because things haven’t settled. There are times where it feels extremely stable and smooth and in control, but then I’ll hit a section of road and it will feel like it bounces a little odd and has a back and forth left/right bounce. I know nothing rides as smooth and compliant as factory, but there are times where it feels a bit unstable me. Now, with that said, I know I need an alignment in the worst way with the current amount of lift (22.75” with a net 3.25” lift since my front had sagged) and I’m on stock UCAs with no alignment yet. Just wanted to avoid multiple alignments…

 

[spokalpine]

I will say, first impressions of this, which it’s still pretty early, is a little all over the place. It feels stiffer than what I was expecting but that may be because things haven’t settled. There are times where it feels extremely stable and smooth and in control, but then I’ll hit a section of road and it will feel like it bounces a little odd and has a back and forth left/right bounce. I know nothing rides as smooth and compliant as factory, but there are times where it feels a bit unstable me. Now, with that said, I know I need an alignment in the worst way with the current amount of lift (22.75” with a net 3.25” lift since my front had sagged) and I’m on stock UCAs with no alignment yet. Just wanted to avoid multiple alignments…

Dude, let it settle out first and get an alignment before you try to give any sort of review. My Dobinsons kit rides way better than stock ever did... way more compliant and responsive than the boat-like stock suspension.

 

[Crikeymike]

Good to know about the month. Thanks.

I may go ahead and get UCAs then since I seriously doubt my front will be below 2”. I was shooting for 2.25” (go to about 210mm on perch)..

I will say, first impressions of this, which it’s still pretty early, is a little all over the place. It feels stiffer than what I was expecting but that may be because things haven’t settled. There are times where it feels extremely stable and smooth and in control, but then I’ll hit a section of road and it will feel like it bounces a little odd and has a back and forth left/right bounce. I know nothing rides as smooth and compliant as factory, but there are times where it feels a bit unstable me. Now, with that said, I know I need an alignment in the worst way with the current amount of lift (22.75” with a net 3.25” lift since my front had sagged) and I’m on stock UCAs with no alignment yet. Just wanted to avoid multiple alignments…

Dude, let it settle out first and get an alignment before you try to give any sort of review. My Dobinsons kit rides way better than stock ever did... way more compliant and responsive than the boat-like stock suspension.

I was gonna say the same thing. A bad alignment can make a good suspension feel like crap. It's like buying a $3000 camera and not focusing the lens before you take a photo.

 

[BlueRidge77]

Dude, let it settle out first and get an alignment before you try to give any sort of review. My Dobinsons kit rides way better than stock ever did... way more compliant and responsive than the boat-like stock suspension.

I was gonna say the same thing. A bad alignment can make a good suspension feel like crap. It's like buying a $3000 camera and not focusing the lens before you take a photo.

You guys are right and I will certainly give it time before a “review”. Thanks. I just was sharing my first impressions and even stated it could be because of the lack of alignment. My only true frustration is the what appears to be more lift than expected. This isn’t my first experience with a lift, but it is my first with an IFS vehicle. There are some differences to me that I’m learning. Thanks for the responses.

Edit: I meant to say also, I decided to not let a nickel hold up a dollar. I’m scheduled to get an alignment on Friday. Even if it means I need another in a few weeks/months or if/when I get UCAs.

 

[gordonp]

I know I need an alignment in the worst way

I was in the same situation last year, toward the beginning of COVID - I really didn't want to circulate. I needed a second alignment, but didn't want to keep paying and paying. So, I watched some YouTube, and gave it some thought.

I then tackled my own alignment. It was a different vehicle (Suzuki Grand Vitara) and I only worried about Camber and Toe-In, for my DIY approach.

Simply try this:

With your lift, can you hook a tape-measure into a tread-block in the mid-backside of your tire, and measure to a tread-block-edge on the other side (where you are laying)?

Then, at the same pattern of the treadblock, but on the front, can you hook and measure across the front? The front should be narrower than the rear - I looked up the 4Runner spec, and it can be as much as 0.10-degree. With a 31-inch tire, some quick math (TAN) tells me this is a bit under 1/16 inch.

It's important to hook onto the same hill or valley in the tread patterns, so you're getting a fairly accurate toe-in measurement. If in doubt, re-measure several times.

So - you should be able to measure OK if the rear-mid-tire is 1/16" wider than the front-mid-tire distance.

Loosen the tie-rod lock nuts (more YouTube and very-hot propane flame if yours are stuck). Think about your steering wheel, make adjustments that re-center your steering wheel.

As you get close (it may take 5 tries to get close) you'll find you're probably making about 1/12-turn on the rod-ends. The satisfying thing about this DIY approach - beside saving a lot of tire-rubber - is that you will get a feel for your handling, and you can adjust things to your liking.

At the very least, this should hold you until everything is settled, and you can take it in.

 

[mbm112]

Since you have 505s in the rear, what is your hub to fender measurement? (Lean? Shims?) Also, what is the 302 hub to fender in the front? You have it set at 213mm?

I just installed my 302s and 505s on Thursday. I’ll post comprehensive info after everything is said and done and tweaked. But curious how long to wait for things to settle.

My rear was at 21.75” pre-lift so only .25” less than Dobinsons “baseline”. I assumed I would see 1.75” lift in the end which is fine. Maybe 2” on the absolute high side. Well, I’m sitting at 24” now. That’s 2” of lift over baseline which is .50” over spec. (2.25” of net lift for me which is too much.) From what I’ve read on various threads, I shouldn’t expect that much settlement. That’s too much variance in my opinion.

I’ve done some driving on rough gravel roads along with some interstate… it hasn’t been long though so I’ll keep checking. I had zero KDSS lean in the back pre lift. But reading the risk of lean, I went ahead and installed the spacer. Well, after lift I was 1/2” higher than drivers side so I already removed it. I’m still about 3/16” high on passengers side which is a little odd…tough to be too precise… Waiting to finalize my front settings until I know where the back ends up. I Intentionally set the seat/perch a bit high (216mm) so I could lower afterwards.). The front seems to be where it should and where I expected. I’m at 22.75” on the front both sides (and I have a shim on the passenger side. I had a bit of lean on the front).

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] - The first post of this thread says 2.5” or higher of lift in front - UCAs recommended. Is that 2.5” above baseline or 2.5” above where it sat pre-lift?

302/700 and 505/705 here and my rears are at 24" from hub to fender. Unfortunately I forgot to measure the pre-lift heights.

They've been on for about a month now and already have close to 5k miles on them including 1200 miles of towing a loaded 6x12 trailer and two offroad trails. Doesn't seem likely that the rear will settle anymore so I'll be stuck at that rear height.

My fronts were originally set at 22" from hub to fender with the hopes that the rear would settle, but since it hasn't, I'm looking to raise them another inch so my rake is less aggressive.

 

[BlueRidge77]

302/700 and 505/705 here and my rears are at 24" from hub to fender. Unfortunately I forgot to measure the pre-lift heights.

They've been on for about a month now and already have close to 5k miles on them including 1200 miles of towing a loaded 6x12 trailer and two offroad trails. Doesn't seem likely that the rear will settle anymore so I'll be stuck at that rear height.

My fronts were originally set at 22" from hub to fender with the hopes that the rear would settle, but since it hasn't, I'm looking to raise them another inch so my rake is less aggressive.

Thanks for the response. I’m sorry to hear that. I’m sure someone will tell you to give it 6 months, and it will “settle”… lol. May be easier to put new rear springs on than to crank up the front coilovers. With that many miles, you may be taking a chance raising without disassembly. If you had to disassemble, I think swapping out the rear coils would be easier… Just a thought… What do you think of the ride quality? Do you still have stock UCAs? How is your alignment? Thanks again for your time.

 

[mbm112]

Thanks for the response. I’m sorry to hear that. I’m sure someone will tell you to give it 6 months, and it will “settle”… lol. May be easier to put new rear springs on than to crank up the front coilovers. With that many miles, you may be taking a chance raising without disassembly. If you had to disassemble, I think swapping out the rear coils would be easier… Just a thought… What do you think of the ride quality? Do you still have stock UCAs? How is your alignment? Thanks again for your time.

I have SPC UCAs on currently. Alignment is fine with them.

My only point of comparison is the XREAS on my Limited, which we removed to install the Dobinsons. I do find them to be softer than XREAS but not by much. I'm okay with that because I appreciated the onroad handling of XREAS. But I will say the new setup handles bumps and extremely rough roads much much better. I haven't come across any onroad scenarios where I felt it was unsettled. I do wish they were just a tad softer though.

That odd back and forth left/right bounce you mention was much more common with XREAS and was the primary reason I wanted to take it out and put something else in.

 

[Crikeymike]

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Exit Offroad are the Dobinsons Suspension Experts in the USA

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