Dobinsons IMS Struts and Shocks - Adjustable Height Monotubes - 5th Gen 4Runners

[Crikeymike]

The cat got out of the bag recently about the new Dobinsons IMS shocks, so I'm starting this thread to give the details about these new struts and shocks from Dobinsons that are arriving in March 2020, and some versions coming after (long travel, no ETA yet, but probably some time in June 2020).

IMS
Internal reservoir
Monotube
Shocks

I guess IRMS sounded silly, and considering the already existing MRR (Monotube Remote Resi), a non-resi version didn't sound right either, this is the wording Dobinsons are going with.

In a nutshell, the IMS struts and shocks are almost the same as the MRR/MRA but with an IFP (Internal Floating Piston) inside the shock body with a small gas reservoir, and no external hose or reservoir. Same monotube body size, piston diameter, shaft thickness, and also the struts are height adjustable thanks to the fully threaded body. Super easy installation.
These do not have any valving adjustment.

From the manufacturer:
Dobinsons IMS Monotube Shock Absorbers are designed for next level performance over Twin Tube Shocks in those hot, harsh, demanding conditions. By utilising the Monotube design, Dobinsons IMS Shock Absorbers are able to resist fade far longer on corrugated roads, long or hard working 4WD trips, towing or racing conditions.

The larger 50 and 60mm high flow pistons reduce internal pressures, reduce the heat generated, transfer heat to the body for faster cooling and offer improved damping performance and vehicle control at higher shaft speeds on rough terrain and during big impacts. Threaded bodies on struts allow for fine tuning of height and offer further improvements in cooling.
The micro-polished, hard chromed and heat treated shock shaft, CNC aluminium high flow race inspired piston, and DOM seamless tubing body provides the ultimate in performance and off-road durability.

Composite piston wear bands and a race style 3-stage sealing system offer the lowest levels of friction whilst maintaining durability and longevity. Dobinsons team of engineers spend hundreds of hours of testing and tuning
the shim stacks and damping characteristics in each IMS Shock to ensure a balance of comfort, handling, vehicle control and offroad performance - Enjoy the ride

Features

• Fully re-buildable and re-valvable
• Zero shock fade in all terrains with full load
• Direct, bolt-on replacement for easy fitment
• Progressive valving
• Uses existing full range of coil springs and top mounts
• Highest quality rubber bushings top and bottom for maximum NVH dampening
• Corrosion resistant (EDP Surface Protection)
• Heavy duty single piece lower leg
• Enormous oil capacity
• Heavy Duty 3 Stage FKM HNBR Sealing System for the ultimate in reliability
• Race inspired hi-flow CNC 6061 Billet alloy piston – for the ultimate in offroad handling
• 56mm/2.2” Bodied Series - 50mm hi-flow CNC 6061 Billet alloy piston - 50mm bore
• 66mm/2.6” Bodied Series - 60mm hi-flow CNC 6061 Billet alloy piston - 60mm bore

The body size is 56mm with a 50mm piston for these vehicles:
4th/5th Gen 4Runner
2nd/3rd Gen Tacoma
Lexus GX470 and GX460

The body size is 66mm with a 60mm piston for these vehicles:
Land Cruiser 80, 100, and 200 series

Part numbers for 5th Gen IMS struts and shocks. Click on part number to see pricing and further details of each item. **SOLD IN PAIRS**
IMS59-50700 - IMS Front Struts - suits 0-3" lift - 560mm ext, 420mm comp
IMS59-50574 - IMS Front Extended Travel Struts - suits 2-3.5" lift - 574mm ext, 430mm comp
IMS59-50705 - discontinued and replaced by newly revalved IMS59-50701
IMS59-50701 - IMS Rear Shocks standard valved - suits 0-3" lift - 598mm ext, 389mm comp
IMS59-50575 - IMS Rear Long Travel Shocks - suits 3"+ lift (not for KDSS models) - 720mm ext, 438mm comp

Setting coil seat height
The IMS59-50700 and IMS59-50574 come with a full threaded body, and the coil seat height needs to be set prior to installing the coils onto them. A proper strut coil compressor is required. Regular rental compressors can have teeth that hold the coil which are too thick, they won't work, as you probably won't be able to get the teeth out once the coil is on the strut. We offer the assembly of the front coilovers with new top mounts for an extra charge.

2 base options:
213mm - Base setting, same as OE, for coil seat height. Use this with lifted coil springs to let the coils do the lifting only
226mm - Taller setting, adds 1" of lift to whatever coil springs you're using. Use this setting with a 2" coil to produce 3" of lift, for example.

• Spin both collars down on the strut almost to the bottom. Never use any locktight, it will gum up the threads and it's not necessary once you see the step below.
• Slide the coil seat onto the strut, with the flattest side facing down (notch facing upwards for coil to sit against)
• Using a tape measure, hold the tape against the lip/notch of the coil seat (where the pigtail of the coil will sit) and measure down to center of the lower mounting hole. Raise or lower the top adjuster collar until the coil seat is in the correct position.
• Once the height is set, take both adjuster tools that were supplied. Hold the top adjuster in place, and bring the 2nd adjuster up to the top one, and lock them together. This is the same as "double nutting". This is insurance to keep the top adjuster in position and keep the height where it is.
• If ever you need to adjust the coilover up or down, ALWAYS undo the lower adjuster FIRST, slide it down out of the way, then adjust the upper adjuster to the correct position. If you try to move both adjusters at once, the threads will most likely get damaged and you won't be happy.
• I'll be making a video and posting it up when I get a chance, as it's a pretty simple process, but worth getting a visual for too.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Npfx40VD3kM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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[SpeedyKevin]

Sick. I take it these are non rebuildable? Should we expect the same life as the twin tubes?

Prob jump on these if/when I go to steel bumpers.

I believe they are the same thing as the MRR but without resi so they should br rebuildable

 

[Dillusion]

The purple would be the deal breaker for me.

 

[Crikeymike]

The purple would be the deal breaker for me.

I don't have photos of it handy for the IMS, but the adjusters on the US supply will be black, not purple. Just like the MRA's in this photo on mine.

 

[Crikeymike]

Sick. I take it these are non rebuildable? Should we expect the same life as the twin tubes?

Prob jump on these if/when I go to steel bumpers.

Yes, rebuildable and re-valvable (I don't think valvable is a real word)

Should expect the same life if not more actually.

 

[Crikeymike]

Not to nit pick here... but to clarify and be crystal clear. Are we talking overall life with rebuilds every 20-50K they will last longer. Or will they outlast the mono tube before they needing a rebuild?

Definitely a valid question.

They do not have a set rebuild period like some other brands on the market. Without a reservoir and as many parts, there's less that can go wrong, especially with the quality of the components used.

I can't put a date or mileage on it, but they should last a long time under standard use without needing anything. Now for someone that races with them or really goes hard offroad a lot, they'll be putting more heat thru them, so they might require a service sooner than other guys.

 

[DigitalAviatorZ]

Progressive or digressive valving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Crikeymike]

Progressive or digressive valving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Progressive

 

[Dillusion]

We get it your more of a pink kinda guy. Just be patient.

If it was hot pink count me in.

Patient for what I don't need a lift already got one. Just saying I don't think most (yes speaking for everyone here) wants bright colors all over. But then could just be me.

 

[Crikeymike]

Pretend the rings are black...

 

[Dillusion]

Pretending real hard and it looks good.

Silver/chrome can get by too.

 

[Harrisnc]

Is the pricing for the shocks only? Which coils work with the fronts? I’m guessing any of your rear coils will be fine.

 

[Crikeymike]

Is the pricing for the shocks only? Which coils work with the fronts? I’m guessing any of your rear coils will be fine.

Yes, the links go to the shocks only. Any front coils can be used.

Here you can choose any option you want to make a full kit.

Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Lift Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-20 (Non KDSS) | Exit Offroad

 

[Sundy]

I was looking the MRRs but this price point is a little nicer and they still sound great!

Also, I personally don't mind the purple and teal. I've got a black truck so a little color is okay lol. These look like a great setup!

 

[RedRunner_87]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] two questionsfor you:

1) How much adjustability do you get with these? "Threaded bodies on struts allow for fine tuning of height and offer further improvements in cooling."

2) Do the Long Travel(IMS59-50574) add an additional 1" of lift?

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] two questionsfor you:



1) How much adjustability do you get with these? "Threaded bodies on struts allow for fine tuning of height and offer further improvements in cooling."



2) Do the Long Travel(IMS59-50574) add an additional 1" of lift?

The whole body is threaded, so you could go from 0" to 4" technically, not that you can go that high without causing other issues.

The 574s also have a fully threaded body so you can set them to add 1" of lift or not.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Sundy]

The 574s also have a fully threaded body so you can set them to add 1" of lift or not.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Based on this, any reason to not get the long travel versions? I'm not looking at a ton of lift, just curious. Will likely go with the 2" coils after lo-pro / winch bumper, was concerned about pushing it to 3" as I'd like to try and not replace UCA's.

 

[RedRunner_87]

The whole body is threaded, so you could go from 0" to 4" technically, not that you can go that high without causing other issues.

The 574s also have a fully threaded body so you can set them to add 1" of lift or not.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Awesome! I was trying to stay around 2.5/1, that is why I was asking about adjustability. The closer to 2.5 in the front the better for me. Thanks for the info. I think this just moved up to #1 on my list.

 

[Crikeymike]

Had a few people ask about this, so I just wrote this up, and also added it to the first post.

Setting coil seat height
The IMS59-50700 come with a full threaded body, and the coil seat height needs to be set prior to installing the coils onto them. A proper strut coil compressor is required. Regular rental compressors can have teeth that hold the coil which are too thick, they won't work, as you probably won't be able to get the teeth out once the coil is on the strut. We offer the assembly of the front coilovers with new top mounts for an extra charge.

2 base options:
213mm - Base setting, same as OE, for coil seat height. Use this with lifted coil springs to let the coils do the lifting only
226mm - Taller setting, adds 1" of lift to whatever coil springs you're using. Use this setting with a 2" coil to produce 3" of lift, for example.

• Spin both collars down on the strut almost to the bottom. Never use any locktight, it will gum up the threads and it's not necessary once you see the step below.
• Slide the coil seat onto the strut, with the flattest side facing down (notch facing upwards for coil to sit against)
• Using a tape measure, hold the tape against the lip/notch of the coil seat (where the pigtail of the coil will sit) and measure down to center of the lower mounting hole. Raise or lower the top adjuster collar until the coil seat is in the correct position.
• Once the height is set, take both adjuster tools that were supplied. Hold the top adjuster in place, and bring the 2nd adjuster up to the top one, and lock them together. This is the same as "double nutting". This is insurance to keep the top adjuster in position and keep the height where it is.
• If ever you need to adjust the coilover up or down, ALWAYS undo the lower adjuster FIRST, slide it down out of the way, then adjust the upper adjuster to the correct position. If you try to move both adjusters at once, the threads will most likely get damaged and you won't be happy.
• I'll be making a video and posting it up when I get a chance, as it's a pretty simple process, but worth getting a visual for too.

 

[Jetboy]

Based on this, any reason to not get the long travel versions? I'm not looking at a ton of lift, just curious. Will likely go with the 2" coils after lo-pro / winch bumper, was concerned about pushing it to 3" as I'd like to try and not replace UCA's.

If you don't have aftermarket upper control arms you are likely to exceed the range of angle built into the stock upper control arm. So you could damage the upper control arm ball joint. I don't know the full extended length of these though so it's hard to say on whether they'd cause an issue or not.


Also FWIW - most other shocks that come in regular or extended length like Fox or King are actually all the same shock. The regular travel versions have a rubber bumper inside that limits the down travel by a little bit. So if you have them apart to rebuild you can remove that bumper to make them extended travel down the road. Maybe Mike can help with some details on the internals.

The internal reservoir is usually called and IFP or Internal Floating Piston in the other popular brands. It's a tried and true solution.

In my experience with Fox - the service interval is about 15,000 miles and the reason is to replace the spherical bearings. They don't last very long. I would much rather have rubber bushings like these. Every time I have to pull them out to replace the bushings I consider machining out the shock eyes to fit some sort of rubber instead. Rubber is simply better for this application. Otherwise if the build quality is similar - I'd expect the life of these type of shocks to be longer than the OEM due to better seals and better materials throughout. So 100k or more.