Dobinsons MRA - 3-way adjustable struts/shocks w/resi - 5th Gen
- Thread starter Crikeymike
- Start date
Crikeymike
Senior Member
You'd have to change the hose to the longer one. It wouldn't be worth it in my opinion unless you were already doing a rebuild and having to replace all the oil and gas.
carlodonz
Member
I agree, not worth it. Thanks!
MyanRagahis
Member
For anyone that loses the rear driver upper shock nut like me because it rolled down the frame and wedged itself between the gas tank and the frame, the size of the nut is an M12 x 1.25. Picked up a brand called Hillman at Lowe's. Pack of two for $2+. It'll be a 19mm nut vs the 18mm that came with the shock.
I've had these on since April and I'm loving them everyday. Smoothest on road ride I've ever had. I've learned using low speed compression of 3 and 0 high speed works best for trail use for me.
I've had these on since April and I'm loving them everyday. Smoothest on road ride I've ever had. I've learned using low speed compression of 3 and 0 high speed works best for trail use for me.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Thanks for the tip!!
I lost one of the retaining bolts from a coil pack when changing spark plugs a few months ago, and it straight up disappeared. After an hour of searching, I went and bought a replacement. Fast forward to 2 months later, the threads are sticking out of one end of the skid plate... No idea where it had been all that time, but I finally found it!! haha
SpeedPhreak87
New member
Hi [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION], what struts and coils would you recommend for the following scenario? I currently run Elka 2.0 IFPs and have Load range E tires, but I find the ride harsh at lower speeds (it's excellent higher speeds though) so I am thinking moving back to something with rubber bushings will help, as will the adjustable compression dampening.
4Runner w/ KDSS, looking for 2.5-3" lift up front and 2" in the rear:
- Full RCI Aluminum Skids (incl. gas tank, guessing this probably adds 50-75lbs over stock)
- Aluminum stub bumper + winch (est. 70 lbs over stock)
- Aluminum sliders + roof rack (est. another 50-75lbs total)
I already have SPC UCAs, but I'm not sure if I'm better off going with the 0-3" fronts or the 2-3.5" - I like the idea of extended travel but if the difference is marginal, I'd prefer to put less stress of my CVs at full droop.
This vehicle is also my daily driver, so it spends most of its time unloaded. When I go off-road, I typically am not camping so I'm only adding recovery gear and basic tools, so compared to others I probably don't have a massive swing in loaded vs unloaded weight (I figured I'm loaded down heaviest taking road trips to visit family with a fully loaded trunk).
Thanks in advance,
Mark
4Runner w/ KDSS, looking for 2.5-3" lift up front and 2" in the rear:
- Full RCI Aluminum Skids (incl. gas tank, guessing this probably adds 50-75lbs over stock)
- Aluminum stub bumper + winch (est. 70 lbs over stock)
- Aluminum sliders + roof rack (est. another 50-75lbs total)
I already have SPC UCAs, but I'm not sure if I'm better off going with the 0-3" fronts or the 2-3.5" - I like the idea of extended travel but if the difference is marginal, I'd prefer to put less stress of my CVs at full droop.
This vehicle is also my daily driver, so it spends most of its time unloaded. When I go off-road, I typically am not camping so I'm only adding recovery gear and basic tools, so compared to others I probably don't have a massive swing in loaded vs unloaded weight (I figured I'm loaded down heaviest taking road trips to visit family with a fully loaded trunk).
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Hey Mark,
Rubber bushings definitely make a difference. My buddy just took off Total Chaos UCA's with poly bushings and uniballs for some new Dobinsons UCA's with ball joints and rubber bushings, and that alone made a really nice ride quality improvement. Running rubber strut mounts would help a lot too.
For that taller height, the MRA59-A574 extended length struts is what we normally go with, so you have a bit more down travel left when it's lifted. For 2.5", it would be the C59-302 coils with a little preload, and for 3", it would be the C59-314 coils. Lighter spring rates too as you don't have too much front weight. You can go with the MRA59-A700 front regular struts too if you don't want that extra travel.
C59-325 in the rear would get you 2" with the bit of weight you have, plus the MRA59-A701 shocks.
Here you go!
Great Thread, are these numbers clicks from - or clicks from + ? Im assuming - but want to confirm
Crikeymike
Senior Member
From all the way lefty loosy, which is zero. You turn it in to add clicks
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] Is there any reason someone wouldn't want the MRA59-A574 Extended Travel over the MRA59-A700? I don't know much about suspensions and trying to read up. From what I've read, having longer struts is preferable as long as they can compress small enough. Both struts compress to 420mm, so I am wondering under why it wouldn't be a no-brainer to go with extended travel under all circumstances, even if you were targeting for a small 1-inch lift.
I was contemplating getting the softest spring (C59-238) with the MRA59-A574. Am I crazy?
I was contemplating getting the softest spring (C59-238) with the MRA59-A574. Am I crazy?
Crikeymike
Senior Member
You can run them, but you have to run aftermarket UCA's. They extend further to where the stock UCA's will hit the coil spring at full droop
Finally got to installing the MRA's on my 2017. Can other owners verify the range of the LSC, HSC and rebound? I can roughly hear 18 clicks on the HSC, and 20 clicks on the LSC from lock to lock on the knobs.
The rebound on the front coils is roughly 27 clicks (I can't feel or hear the clicks in the middle range sometimes but the knob moves so I am "counting" a click when the knob moves in the same increment as when it does make a click).
The rebound on the rear coil at the base of the strut is 18 clicks.
I feel like these figures are contradicting to what I've read online. Trail4runners 5K mile review below claims the following:
High-speed compression – 10 stage
Low-speed compression – 20 stage
Rebound – 15 stage
Dobinsons MRR/MRA Suspension: 5000-Mile Onroad & Offroad Review
The rebound on the front coils is roughly 27 clicks (I can't feel or hear the clicks in the middle range sometimes but the knob moves so I am "counting" a click when the knob moves in the same increment as when it does make a click).
The rebound on the rear coil at the base of the strut is 18 clicks.
I feel like these figures are contradicting to what I've read online. Trail4runners 5K mile review below claims the following:
High-speed compression – 10 stage
Low-speed compression – 20 stage
Rebound – 15 stage
Dobinsons MRR/MRA Suspension: 5000-Mile Onroad & Offroad Review
I cannot hear or feel the clicks on the rebound of the struts, I went from full loose to full tight and see 3.75 turns. Can anybody say the how many clicks per 360 degrees or what is 1 click equal too ? I could hear some of the clicks going from full tight to loose but it's very hard.
TIA
TIA
Holyknight
New member
I love the MRA setup. Been running them for about 3 years now and cant be happier. Glad i went with them than most of the other brands that saturate our market.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
I bet the detent ball is probably not in place inside the strut then. You should definitely be able to feel or here it.
This video I did goes over it all and you would be able to hear it. It's got a lot of clicks in a full revolution.
Dobinsons MRA Front Coilover Rebound Adjuster Removal and Installation - YouTube
First, Just did over 300 miles off road in and around Moab. These shocks and struts were great, did Hells Gate & Hells Revenge and had a blast.
Now, to my problem. Any way to access the spring and ball with strut installed ? Going off memory, I dont believe I have room to get an allen wrench in without dropping the strut.
TIA
Now, to my problem. Any way to access the spring and ball with strut installed ? Going off memory, I dont believe I have room to get an allen wrench in without dropping the strut.
TIA
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yeah, it might be too tight to get in there. If you can get the top adjuster off, then you may have to cut down an allen key so it's stubby enough to turn the inside part out of there. That piece is about an inch long or so. You can see it in detail in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTgFVvaMzfk&feature=youtu.be
Crikeymike
Senior Member
If anyone ever has a problem adjusting or turning the purple or black adjuster knobs on their Dobinsons MRA shocks or struts, here's a guide to clear that up.
https://exitoffroad.com/wp-content/...ns-MRR-MRA-Adjuster-Stuck-or-Hard-to-Turn.pdf
https://exitoffroad.com/wp-content/...ns-MRR-MRA-Adjuster-Stuck-or-Hard-to-Turn.pdf
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