Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

Thank you for the info [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Sounds like I may be hosed. I take it you would say this is unsafe to drive on then?

As an addition to this. The manual states the rebound adjuster has 6 clicks per full rotation. Should you be able to feel these? Mine just spin freely/smoothly from full loose to full snug (not turning past any resistance)
 
Thank you for the info [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Sounds like I may be hosed. I take it you would say this is unsafe to drive on then?

As an addition to this. The manual states the rebound adjuster has 6 clicks per full rotation. Should you be able to feel these? Mine just spin freely/smoothly from full loose to full snug (not turning past any resistance)

Yes, you would feel it. It's not easy to turn. You can hear it in that video. By feeling nothing, my guess is they didn't reinstall the internal grub screw and spring/ball that actually adjusts the rebound

The bushings are the most important part, they need to be tightened down so that the stud of the shock doesn't move sideways and cause damage.
 
Calling all Dobinsons gurus… ( [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] )

Just had MRRs installed and am thinking maybe they need to be tightened more? The top hat bushing seems relatively uncompressed and the rebound adjuster is practically making contact with the wheel well. Any input based on this image? Can provide more pictures but am having technical issues with the site at the moment so getting one up is a win.

Thanks!
I have the IMS and when installing the fronts there is a 6mm/7-32" socket in the top of the stem to hold it from turning when tightening down the bushings. I had to cut the leg down on an allen wrench to get it in there and then knock it out with a drift and hammer when finished. I like the Bilstein arrangement of flats on the top of the stem for holding with an open end wrench.
 
Mike,

Any suggestions for a v8 running 32” 255/75/17s? I don’t want it to look under tired. No extra weight at the moment.
Depends what you want really. Most people go with 2.5/1.5" or 3/2". The more lift, the more parts you need and the more expensive too
 
The tires will still fit. The width of the tires when you get too wide is what causes clearance problems up front, not the lift height.

Mike I am looking at the Dobinsons IMS59-50575 for my 4th gen. I've already got metal tech extended travel springs for the rear (MT-GSJ-4052) as well as extended brake lines, resz fab rear lower links and durobumps (2-inch extended bump stops - DBR425).

Will these durobumps work or will I need further rear bump spacers added? I bought these bumpstops before durobumps made a 5.25" bump stop.

I do not plan on removing the rear sway bar. I have read about the clearance issues with the gas tank skid and am okay with flipping the driveshaft. I do currently have the stock gas skid in place.

Also, I am curious at what the travel numbers are by going long travel rear vs. the regular length.

Thanks!

Thanks!
 
Mike I am looking at the Dobinsons IMS59-50575 for my 4th gen. I've already got metal tech extended travel springs for the rear (MT-GSJ-4052) as well as extended brake lines, resz fab rear lower links and durobumps (2-inch extended bump stops - DBR425).

Will these durobumps work or will I need further rear bump spacers added? I bought these bumpstops before durobumps made a 5.25" bump stop.

I do not plan on removing the rear sway bar. I have read about the clearance issues with the gas tank skid and am okay with flipping the driveshaft. I do currently have the stock gas skid in place.

Also, I am curious at what the travel numbers are by going long travel rear vs. the regular length.

Thanks!

Thanks!
Hey bud

They will be close to fitting. You'll probably have to do a travel/flex test once it's all on to see how they will work. I suggest asking Durobumps too, maybe they offer a spacer to go in there as well to space them down a little.

The shock specs are in the first post of this thread so you can work out the differences in travel. The LT shocks are about 5" longer fully extended than the regular rear shock option.
 
Not much flexing on this trip but had some great views!

jod9GrM.jpeg
 
Mike,

Do the Dobinsons UCAs give more clearance so 33” (285/70r17) tires don’t rub on the ICA with stock rims?

They give as much clearance as you can get, but if a tire is too wide on a low offset wheel, that just won't do it.

If it's ball joint clearance you need, these give it for sure.
 
I've been running daystar leveling kit 2.5/1.5 on stock original suspension in an 07' 90k miles v6 for the last 7 yrs and it is sagging a bit (measured 21 inches front center hub to fender and 22 inches rear). I Have bmc and panhard extended bracket installed with 33s and scs wheels.

Looking for a refreshed suspension with a 3/2 inch lift on mainly stock weight (rear ladder and roofrack). Does the below give me that 3/2 lift?

Front- c59-300 & gs59-220 + drivers lean spacer
Rear- c59-325 & gs59-705

Understand a diff drop, UCAs and swaybar relocation kit are needed.

For the drivers lean, is it usually just a single front top spacer 1/4 needed ? Or also a rear driver's side spacer too ?

Thanks for any help!
 
Last edited:
I've been running daystar leveling kit 2.5/1.5 on stock original suspension in an 07' 90k miles v6 for the last 7 yrs and it is sagging a bit (measured 21 inches front center hub to fender and 22 inches rear). I Have bmc and panhard extended bracket installed with 33s and scs wheels.

Looking for a refreshed suspension with a 3/2 inch lift on mainly stock weight (rear ladder and roofrack). Does the below give me that 3/2 lift?

Front- c59-300 & gs59-220 + drivers lean spacer
Rear- c59-325 & gs59-705

Understand a diff drop, UCAs and swaybar relocation kit are needed.

For the drivers lean, is it usually just a single front top spacer 1/4 needed ? Or also a rear driver's side spacer too ?

Thanks for any help!
Hey bud.

Yes, that's correct for the front. On the rear, I'd recommend the C59-505 unless you plan to carry some rear weight, a 3rd row seat, or if you will tow with it. The C59-325 can be more like 2.25" of lift when empty, the C59-505 are more like 1.75".

Usually the older and more worn out the vehicle is, that's when front and rear lean spacers are needed. I would add them to both ends.
 
Hey bud.

Yes, that's correct for the front. On the rear, I'd recommend the C59-505 unless you plan to carry some rear weight, a 3rd row seat, or if you will tow with it. The C59-325 can be more like 2.25" of lift when empty, the C59-505 are more like 1.75".

Usually the older and more worn out the vehicle is, that's when front and rear lean spacers are needed. I would add them to both ends.


Thanks!!

As for the rear, I was actually worried the c59-325 was only going to give 1.75 lift and not the true 2+ inch based on the first page of this thread.
I do tow a 17 footer loaded boat 5 times a year and I always have 2 car seats, a big stroller and 3-4 camping chairs tucked in the back with a bag of tools at all times before adding any family/gear. Do you still think 505 coils or back to 325? The rear I am having trouble figuring out.

I am OK with a little extra height on the lift but if it is going to ride like crap I'd make the change.
 
Thanks!!

As for the rear, I was actually worried the c59-325 was only going to give 1.75 lift and not the true 2+ inch based on the first page of this thread.
I do tow a 17 footer loaded boat 5 times a year and I always have 2 car seats, a big stroller and 3-4 camping chairs tucked in the back with a bag of tools at all times before adding any family/gear. Do you still think 505 coils or back to 325? The rear I am having trouble figuring out.

I am OK with a little extra cushion on the lift but if it is going to ride like crap I'd make the change.
OK, definitely the 325's then.

They're both the same spring rate, just different heights.
 

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