Doc's CS144 alternator upgrade.

Oh by the way I have a TRD supercharger and did NOT have to change the belt. The alternator is adjusted as far out as it will go and there is room for my longer oil filter, thanks to the S/C belt tentioner.
 
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Thanks [MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION] for the write up. Here were some of my observations.

1. I couldn't muscle the original alternator belt onto the new cs144 (even after loosening the bolt down). And if it did work, I didn't like how the cs144 would've been collapsing down on the coolant hose under it. So I used the 4-rib belt from the power steering pump and it fit perfectly. It added just enough length for it to adjust properly.

2. I ordered the GM to Toyota adapter harness off of ebay, and turned out to be a time saver.

3. I ordered my CS144 without the heated windshield, the only difference i noticed was the missing 3 vertical pins (unused by us).
 
Thanks [MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION] for the write up. Here were some of my observations.

1. I couldn't muscle the original alternator belt onto the new cs144 (even after loosening the bolt down). And if it did work, I didn't like how the cs144 would've been collapsing down on the coolant hose under it. So I used the 4-rib belt from the power steering pump and it fit perfectly. It added just enough length for it to adjust properly.

2. I ordered the GM to Toyota adapter harness off of ebay, and turned out to be a time saver.

3. I ordered my CS144 without the heated windshield, the only difference i noticed was the missing 3 vertical pins (unused by us).

From what I read, the only people that managed to use the original alternator belt are the ones who have superchargers. Others did as you did and used a power steering belt.


Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk
 
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Checking if anyone knows if the belts hold up in the 6 groove or if a pulley change is necessary.

Also, will this one work? Does the clock position matter if i have to use a gm to toyota adapter?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RSE2134647K#

Looks good to me. It won't matter just makes it a bit harder to get to. I left the 6 rib pulley on and so far so good. Others have left it on with good results too. I did have to put a 1/4" spacer on the pulley to align the belt better cuz it squeaked and wouldn't go away.
 
Been holding up just fine for me man.

What do you mean about the clock position?

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That's great that it holds up.

The clock position was something I only just saw last night because I figure I'd be best off buying a NAPA reman just in case for the warranty. I didn't see any mention of this on rockauto but it may be there under the separate info for each alternator brand. If you click the link, under details you'll see that this one is set to 2:00. Others on the site are set to different clock positions.

I can't say I know a lot about alternators so I looked it up.

https://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/html/tas_alt_clock.jsp



Alternators/Generators — Clock Position


The connector position is determined by viewing the alternator from the diode end with the threaded adjusting lug in the up or 12 o'clock position. Select the clock position to match the unit being replaced.

tas_alt_clock_chart.gif
 
Looks good to me. It won't matter just makes it a bit harder to get to. I left the 6 rib pulley on and so far so good. Others have left it on with good results too. I did have to put a 1/4" spacer on the pulley to align the belt better cuz it squeaked and wouldn't go away.

Thanks. What kind of spacer did you use for this? Nylon / Aluminum / Steel / washers? I just want to buy all this stuff prior than run to homedepot or somewhere midway through the install. I'll be buying another spacer for the bottom of the alternator. I can't tack washers together like Doc did.

I also plan on buying a BANDO MFG. 4PK1068 Power Steering Belt belt to make my life easier as noted above.
 
Thanks. What kind of spacer did you use for this? Nylon / Aluminum / Steel / washers? I just want to buy all this stuff prior than run to homedepot or somewhere midway through the install. I'll be buying another spacer for the bottom of the alternator. I can't tack washers together like Doc did.

I also plan on buying a BANDO MFG. 4PK1068 Power Steering Belt belt to make my life easier as noted above.

It's a steel spacer that I got from my work. I used the alternator belt and maybe that's why I ran into an issue. I have the 4 washers for the top mount and the oem setup for the bottom mount of the alternator. I don't have a spacer on the bottom mount. You'd need to take the nut off that holds the pulley and put the spacer on behind the pulley. It doesn't squeak now and is charging the way it should be so everything is good to go.
 
It's a steel spacer that I got from my work. I used the alternator belt and maybe that's why I ran into an issue. I have the 4 washers for the top mount and the oem setup for the bottom mount of the alternator. I don't have a spacer on the bottom mount. You'd need to take the nut off that holds the pulley and put the spacer on behind the pulley. It doesn't squeak now and is charging the way it should be so everything is good to go.

Thanks. I meant the top where Doc used 3 tacked washers. Was just writing this off of memory but I looked at the top of this post.
 
Quick question guys ...

I turned on my truck and it started up fine but the battery light was on. After a bit of revving it went away and I drove home. The scan gauge said 14.1v.

I get home, park, move the car an hour later and the battery light is on again but this time the scangauge never goes above 12.1 even after driving. I pull the battery to test the charge and my charger says the battery is at 76%.

Alternator failing? I'll find out for sure in about ten days when I bring it to get professionally tested. I'll be out next week so fixing this will have to wait.
 

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