Doc's CS144 alternator upgrade.

I just did this mod on my 98 V6 last week, to replace a failing stock alternator. I don't have anything to add to the procedure, but I did keep some part numbers in case anyone was interested in doing this mod, but wanted to take some guesswork out.

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The alt: Ultima Select (95 Cadillac Fleetwood)
You can find these refurbed for a bit cheaper, but I read enough warnings about poor rebuilds that I went for a new one with the lifetime warranty. This alt was a bolt-in replacement, with the washer spacer.

The plug: Doorman Part #85854
Picked this up with the alt. I replaced the old plug with it. If stripping and splicing worries you, you can get an adaptor, but I wanted to keep the wiring in my engine bay clean and minimal. It's also a fair bit cheaper, and seemed like a robust part.

If you want to wire in that plug, the wires are:
Stock WHITE -> Plug RED
Stock RED -> Plug GREY
Stock YELLOW -> Plug BROWN

It was easy to do this in place without removing the wire harness, but YMMV.

I only hit two snags:

Short Belt: My existing alternator belt was too short. But the belt that I use for my power steering was a perfect fit, so I just used one of those. So just get another of whichever belt you use for your power steering.

Large Terminal: The battery positive terminal bolt on the new alt was larger than the stock alt's, and the lug that was on the cable wouldn't fit. So I had to enlarge the lug hole with a file, and I'll be replacing it entirely as part of a Big 3 upgrade.

I've only been running it for a week or so now, but I'm keeping a close eye on it. So far, I'm getting a solid 13.8v on the battery whenever I check, so everything's working out so far. I'm not running it anywhere near capacity at this point, but I am planning on adding a more robust stereo and inverter, and in any event, my particular build goals center around robustness and reliability, and the CS-144 has a good reputation for those things.

Easy mod, recommend it!
 
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Just incase cause the winch will draw alot of amps its better to be safe!
Take care that you don't put in a bigger fuse then the stock wiring will bear. That's what it's there to protect.

If I end up blowing that fuse, I'll be looking at the wiring in detail before replacing it with something larger. But like Doc says, this seems like a pretty common mod and I didn't see any reports of blown fuses while researching it.
 
So, After 6 months of running just this alternator, I've had no problems.

Just thought you'd like to know for anyone interested in doing this upgrade.
 
So, After 6 months of running just this alternator, I've had no problems.

Just thought you'd like to know for anyone interested in doing this upgrade.

I think that might be an understatement.

You have blown two head gaskets from the excess load on the engine. What if you never did this mod? Your engine could still be alive....

Hmm - Makes you wonder... :gun6:
 
I think that might be an understatement.

You have blown two head gaskets from the excess load on the engine. What if you never did this mod? Your engine could still be alive....

Hmm - Makes you wonder... :gun6:

how does the cs144 cause a blown HG?

Idont see it. I see the HG being from the broken radiator cap, and the overheating that was caused by the broken RC.

The CS144 puts no extra load on the engine. It idles just the same.
 
how does the cs144 cause a blown HG?

Idont see it. I see the HG being from the broken radiator cap, and the overheating that was caused by the broken RC.

The CS144 puts no extra load on the engine. It idles just the same.

Relax, you know that I know that the radiator cap crapped out plus you had like 200k on the engine.



But in reality, it does put extra load on the engine.

140 amp x 14.5 volts equals 2030 watts

It takes 1 horse power to turn 745 watts

Thus it takes 2.75 horse power to turn that alternator under full load.

It takes 1.65 hp to turn the stock alternator under full load.

I HIGHLY doubt you'll need it.

There are people running this alternator that have been for years without blowing the fuze.

As for the fuse, the stock fuse will blow if you have a load of 140 amp. Then it will leave you stranded on the side of the road or trail head.

If you don't plan to succeed you are planning to fail.
 
I'm planning to tackle this CS-144 alternator upgrade this coming weekend when I mount and install my new Warn M8000 winch and ShrockWorks front bumper...
 
just bought me a cs144 170amp alt tonight and the wire harness converter. ill also be upgrading the power wire off the alt to the battery, as well as doing the big3 when i get the alt sometime this week. ill try and do a write up as i go so you can all follow along and take notes. a big thanks to Doc and his write up to pave the way on this for the rest of us...
 


I've got some info for you Kid. Nothing bad, just some experiences I had with the big three. I'll send you a PM in a few. Gonna take me a few minutes to type it all up, and my phones about to die. It'll be in your inbox before noon.
 
I've got some info for you Kid. Nothing bad, just some experiences I had with the big three. I'll send you a PM in a few. Gonna take me a few minutes to type it all up, and my phones about to die. It'll be in your inbox before noon.

How about passing that info along to me as well. I'm looking to do the big 3 this winter and want to start gathering what I need.
 
Relax, you know that I know that the radiator cap crapped out plus you had like 200k on the engine.



But in reality, it does put extra load on the engine.

140 amp x 14.5 volts equals 2030 watts

It takes 1 horse power to turn 745 watts

Thus it takes 2.75 horse power to turn that alternator under full load.

It takes 1.65 hp to turn the stock alternator under full load.



As for the fuse, the stock fuse will blow if you have a load of 140 amp. Then it will leave you stranded on the side of the road or trail head.

If you don't plan to succeed you are planning to fail.

Actually, the amount of power it takes to turn the alternator depends on the LOAD, not the alternator (your figures are based on full load). If you don't increase the load (like more lights, stereo, etc.) the pull on the engine won't increase at all (in theory). What the larger alternator gives you is more CAPACITY in case you need it to meet higher loads.

That's why the alternator fuses don't blow. You are correct that it's possible to blow the fuse if your LOAD increases beyond the capacity of the stock fuse (like charging 2 dead batteries or running 1000 watt stereo at full volume). With the stock alternator it just wouldn't have enough capacity to supply the power needed (or to blow the fuse), so the extra power needed would just come from the battery.
 
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But if I'm going to have the possibility of a blown fuse, I would MUCH rather it be the fuse for the individual device (lights, stereo, winch, whatever) than have it be my alternator. They you are stranded. Having a fuse on a circuit that is built to generate more current than the fuse or breaker is rated for is just not good practice. Many people might not need to generate more than 140 amps, but it's always a possibility that it can happen.
 
Actually, the amount of power it takes to turn the alternator depends on the LOAD, not the alternator (your figures are based on full load). If you don't increase the load (like more lights, stereo, etc.) the pull on the engine won't increase at all (in theory). What the larger alternator gives you is more CAPACITY in case you need it to meet higher loads.

That's why the alternator fuses don't blow. You are correct that it's possible to blow the fuse if your LOAD increases beyond the capacity of the stock fuse (like charging 2 dead batteries or running 1000 watt stereo at full volume). With the stock alternator it just wouldn't have enough capacity to supply the power needed (or to blow the fuse), so the extra power needed would just come from the battery.

Exactly. That is what I said. Under full load.

But don't forget. The heavier the stator (big amperage) the more rotational mass that it will have. Thus the more energy it takes to rotate it. Kind of like adding a heavy flywheel.
 
I figure I'll do this if the stock alt goes bad. Without dual batteries, or a 1000-watt stereo, I haven't had any problems with the stock alternator keeping up. I only have 110 watts of aux lights (though another 200 watts or so would be nice).
 
Thanks for writing this up DOC! just finished my CS144 swap, you took out almost all the guess work! (my brown wire was black on the doorman plug).

:cool:
 
Part # W1232 Alternator Wiring Harness Adapter. converts CS130 or CS144 4 pin Plug to Toyotal Oval Style Alternator Plug

I just ran across this jumper harness that lets you leave the stock wiring 100% intact! When my alt goes, I will be going this route. 25 bucks to make this swap 100% plug and play is great!

So this appears to be identical Alternator Conversion Lead Kit Delco CS130 CS121 to Denso Geo Toyota Oval Style | eBay but does not mention cs 144; however it ends up being $20 cheaper than the one you posted. Anyone have any experience with it?
 
Adding for information, as I'm knee deep in this install...

Couldn't get the belt to go over, push alternator to the side and heard a clunk / can't push anymore.

Look through wheel well, it's hitting my oversized oil filter (20195 Purolator PureONE). So looks like I'm off to get oil change stuff with regular filter. No big deal, due for a change anyway. Just figured I'd pass that along.

Edit changed oil, got alternator in, broke tensioner bolt :| But good write up, my gorilla strength on an old bolt was the only surprise.
 
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