Does replacing read shocks require Stabilzer bar dissconnet ?

[Lug1]

Hi,
I'm planning to replace the front and rear shocks. AFAIK, the coil springs will not need to be replaced. I don't have proof for that, - just from what I've been told - my 4Runner does not show any signs of them being soggy or in bad shape.

My question:
For the rear, if I'm only replacing the shocks on the , and not touching the springs, will that still require the stabilizer bar to be disconnected ?

Thank you.

 

[Konkordmusk]

Hi,
I'm planning to replace the front and rear shocks. AFAIK, the coil springs will not need to be replaced. I don't have proof for that, - just from what I've been told - my 4Runner does not show any signs of them being soggy or in bad shape.

My question:
For the rear, if I'm only replacing the shocks on the , and not touching the springs, will that still require the stabilizer bar to be disconnected ?

Thank you.

Nope. Unbolt lower eyelet, and then yell/curse/scream/plead with the upper shock mount to come off. (If your truck is like 90% of 3GT4R's)
Obviously axle should be at full droop.

 

[Lug1]

, yeah, I have my pleads ready.

As for axle being at full drop - what's the safest/best way for doing it right ?

 

[JayRolla]

, yeah, I have my pleads ready.

As for axle being at full drop - what's the safest/best way for doing it right ?

You dont need axle to be at full droop for shock removal, just for removing the coils.

 

[Lug1]

You dont need axle to be at full droop for shock removal, just for removing the coils.

Okay, I see. So, the prep work would be just:
Jack up the truck
Remove wheels
Position jack stands

Correct ?

 

[sawguy]

Just did mine. Remove bottom bolt, pull off and just bend shock back and forth a few times...usually breaks right off at the top.

 

[02SE]

Okay, I see. So, the prep work would be just:
Jack up the truck
Remove wheels
Position jack stands

Correct ?

Well, except for better access, the wheels and tires don't even necessarily need to come off. What could present an issue, is if you have significant rust.

If rust is an issue, I'd start spraying fasteners several days in advance, with something like PB Blaster.

 

[Lug1]

Well, except for better access, the wheels and tires don't even necessarily need to come off. What could present an issue, is if you have significant rust.

If rust is an issue, I'd start spraying fasteners several days in advance, with something like PB Blaster.

Yup, we're in Massachusetts, rust is everywhere (mainly in the legislator :dancin: )

 

[TheDurk]

Just did mine. Remove bottom bolt, pull off and just bend shock back and forth a few times...usually breaks right off at the top.

How I did my right one--after I wasted a half-hour trying to unscrew the left one.

Wheels on the ground, no stands, no jack.

 

[Lug1]

Can the front ones be removed w/o jacking, as well ?

 

[cashmoney]

Sawzall that thing off. I didn't have any luck bending mine back and forth. Took longer to get the sawzall out than it did to cut both shocks out.

 

[JayRolla]

Can the front ones be removed w/o jacking, as well ?

No, the front is a coilover setup so the coil is removed with the strut/shock. You must lift the truck to remove the front.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Sawzall that thing off. I didn't have any luck bending mine back and forth. Took longer to get the sawzall out than it did to cut both shocks out.

I think for those of us who live where rust is just a rumor — the Sawzall is the way to go. I too tried the whole "bend it back & forth" thing with no luck. I think that really only works well if you have a rusty shock bolt. I finally went to the saw since my truck has never seen rust and those bolts were not going to conveniently just break apart for me.