Does this sound like ITR or OTTR?

[mtbtim]

they look solid, but im not 100% sure. Arent those like a ***** to do

They can be a little bit of a pain in the arse if one or more of the cam adjuster sleeves are welded into the bushing due to rust. In that case, you have to cut them out. But, with a reciprocating saw and some good steel cutting blades (Demon Diablo Carbide tipped blades are suppose to be awesome), you'll make quick work of it.

Here's a video you can peruse to see what the job entails if you figure out you could use a LCA bushing replacement.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM?list=PLPMpPriBUyJBswzxy00gJpFg55Zk2fZmq" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[nobb]

The Sankei 555 being high quality has been very questioned on this site. The price of them may be high but quality not so much. I bought Moog that had Sankei on them. It loosened up fast. Comparing the two the OEM had a lot more droop in its design. I believe the non OEM's pull out of the socket at droop when wheeling. Again I had three failures in less than 10k miles and my 280k miled OEM I put back in is still solid.

Are you talking about tie rod failure or ball joint? Sankei 555's or Moogs are perfectly fine for any application other than the LBJs. Sankei ITREs and upper ball joints are actually a very beefy part. They use a full ball stud + polymer bearing which is the same as the OE design and superior to the metal-on-metal design of the Moog Problem Solver line (if not regularly greased). Strangely, Sankei and every other aftermarket LBJ uses a metal-on-metal design and not a full ball stud which is why they are questionable.

The traditional metal-on-metal Moog Gusher bearing design (fancy name for sintered metal bearings, a 50 yr old technology) has the potential to be even more durable than the OE design ONLY if they are very regularly greased.

 

[St Runner]

The crowbar technique works good if you have some experience but for a novice like me I had to take all the tension off the control arm to really understand how bad my bushings were. Put the frame on jack stands remove the wheel, sway bar and the four bolts of the lower ball joint. Then take off the lower shock bolt. Now there is no tension on either control arm and it is quite easy to tell the exact condition of the bushings

 

[kolelt]

Another video of driving and jerking the steering wheel. Sorry for the key fob lol

https://youtu.be/IwB4Rb4jks0

Only happens when moving. Not when still

 

[Kanoe]

No one has mentioned your steering rack guide bushing, which you point out is still the old style. This can cause some play and a slapping noise. I have upgraded mine to the new style.

An easy way to check is to lie under and watch the drivers side ITRE area. Have someone gently turn the steering wheel back and forth enough to slightly wiggle the tires. If your guide is loose you will see or feel the drivers ITRE moving front to back slightly in addition to the expected in and out. The guides job is to keep the rack piston (for lack of the right term) tightly to the front. The loose guide allows some front to back wiggle there.

You could always just tighten up your existing one using the procedure in the service manual for the time being. Sure can't hurt anything.

 

[MandAtaco]

No one has mentioned your steering rack guide bushing, which you point out is still the old style. This can cause some play and a slapping noise. I have upgraded mine to the new style.

An easy way to check is to lie under and watch the drivers side ITRE area. Have someone gently turn the steering wheel back and forth enough to slightly wiggle the tires. If your guide is loose you will see or feel the drivers ITRE moving front to back slightly in addition to the expected in and out. The guides job is to keep the rack piston (for lack of the right term) tightly to the front. The loose guide allows some front to back wiggle there.

You could always just tighten up your existing one using the procedure in the service manual for the time being. Sure can't hurt anything.

You beat me to it. Yea, that sounds like your rack guide is toast. You can see the rack working up and down when you crank on the wheels. The sound is probably the rack as it moves up and down. I put an updated rack guide in mine and adjusted it and now its noise free. Pull the inner boot back on that side and watch the inner shaft as you rock the wheel.

https://www.yotatech.com/f2/how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures-215931/

 

[kolelt]

You beat me to it. Yea, that sounds like your rack guide is toast. You can see the rack working up and down when you crank on the wheels. The sound is probably the rack as it moves up and down. I put an updated rack guide in mine and adjusted it and now its noise free. Pull the inner boot back on that side and watch the inner shaft as you rock the wheel.

https://www.yotatech.com/f2/how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures-215931/

yes i did find this. But the video did not work.

Im going to slide the boot tomorrow and do another video and ask you guys for your opinion. Hopefully its just the steering guide and not my rack and pinion

 

[MarkamisPrime]

What's a good to see if LCA bushing are bad.

What tim and jay said works
You can also just crawl up underneath with a flash light and if your bushings are bad enough you'll be able to tell just be looking at them

 

[JayRolla]

Are you talking about tie rod failure or ball joint? Sankei 555's or Moogs are perfectly fine for any application other than the LBJs. Sankei ITREs and upper ball joints are actually a very beefy part. They use a full ball stud + polymer bearing which is the same as the OE design and superior to the metal-on-metal design of the Moog Problem Solver line (if not regularly greased). Strangely, Sankei and every other aftermarket LBJ uses a metal-on-metal design and not a full ball stud which is why they are questionable.

The traditional metal-on-metal Moog Gusher bearing design (fancy name for sintered metal bearings, a 50 yr old technology) has the potential to be even more durable than the OE design ONLY if they are very regularly greased.

Im talking about my ITRE that I spend like $80 that was labeled Sankei OEM part made by manufacturer. Its a replacement part and not the original OEM. It failed with in 1 month and multiple offroad trips. Comparing to the OEM part it was "BEEFY" but it did not have the same amount of droop. I compared a sankei 555, autozone rebestos, napa brand and OEM. ( Only the was casted in the way to allow more droop. Another member also posted pictures of this issue. Maybe I just got a bad one but all the non OEM's failed on me.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Amayama Trading

OEM Inner Tie Rod - 45503-39075

 

[mckennar]

(Demon Diablo Carbide tipped blades are suppose to be awesome).

I used a pack of these to cut my sliders off. Took ~30 minutes/leg (at the welds to save the gussets) with them vs. spending almost 2 hours per leg/gusset with others (Lenox, Milwaukee, DeWalt). So yes, they are awesome.

 

[frodiesel]

I/O tierods
Steering rack bushings
Worn steering guide (old version)
Worn slip joint in steering column (tack weld)
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Lbj/upper ball joint

Likely in that order too. Go oem and enjoy another 200k.

 

[kolelt]

I/O tierods
Steering rack bushings
Worn steering guide (old version)
Worn slip joint in steering column (tack weld)
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Lbj/upper ball joint

Likely in that order too. Go oem and enjoy another 200k.

UCA bushings are in good shape. New OEM LBJ. LCA bushings are good to. Only things it could be as you mentioned, worn steering guide, worn slip joint, or my whole rack and pinion.

But check this out. I washed the car today. At a self car wash with pressure washer. It doesn't make anymore poping noise !?! WHAT THE HELL LOL???

 

[nobb]

Im talking about my ITRE that I spend like $80 that was labeled Sankei OEM part made by manufacturer. Its a replacement part and not the original OEM. It failed with in 1 month and multiple offroad trips. Comparing to the OEM part it was "BEEFY" but it did not have the same amount of droop. I compared a sankei 555, autozone rebestos, napa brand and OEM. ( Only the was casted in the way to allow more droop. Another member also posted pictures of this issue. Maybe I just got a bad one but all the non OEM's failed on me.

Not to thread jack, but can you link the thread where members have issues with the ball pulling out? I'm interested in if there is an actual difference of axial play (or "droop") of these joints.

I do like Moog OTREs in general because they'll often have oversized jam/castle nuts which definitely help.

 

[JayRolla]

Not to thread jack, but can you link the thread where members have issues with the ball pulling out? I'm interested in if there is an actual difference of axial play (or "droop") of these joints.

I do like Moog OTREs in general because they'll often have oversized jam/castle nuts which definitely help.

I searched yesterday and could not find it. I had mine loosening up and found the thread showing difference in the casting. So I compared myself and found the same to be true. I will look again.