Done a lot of work, rear end still clunks! GRRR
- Thread starter Hardway
- Start date
Yes, the Moog springs are OEM style replacements. They did lift the rear almost 2" but some of that was due to the old ones sagging. I installed the adjustable panhard bar because the bushings in the original bar did not look good. Plus I had read several posts that it may have been the culprit of the noise and suspension issues. In the end it did not help though. I don't want to throw any more parts at it until I know what the true problem is.
Socco
New member
In light of learning about the zerks on the drive shaft I jacked up the 4Runner this evening and crawled under it with grease gun hand. After a thorough inspection I have concluded my driveshaft does not have zerks at either end, see pics below. Anyone know why this would be?
Wow. I've never heard of not having zerks on the drive shaft before. How do you lube the u-joints? My money says that the u-joints are shot then. If you come to a hard stop, does it feel like someone had bumped into you from behind either after stopping or right when you take your foot of the brake? Thats classic binding of the driveshaft.
While under I did notice this body mount/bushing. Its obviously shot but I am not sold this would be causing all the noise I am hearing. On the bright side it does not look like it would be too hard to replace.
That is the mystery body mount. Earlier models didn't even have that bracket. Why does it not connect the body to the frame? Thats why it's a mystery! Not the source of your problem though.
Below is the passenger side upper shock bushing. This may or may not be the cause of my issue but the bushing looks like it is compressed beyond function. Thoughts?
It's function isn't to cushion the road feel, just to isolate metal to metal contact. Still not the cause of your problem.
Wow. I've never heard of not having zerks on the drive shaft before. How do you lube the u-joints? My money says that the u-joints are shot then. If you come to a hard stop, does it feel like someone had bumped into you from behind either after stopping or right when you take your foot of the brake? Thats classic binding of the driveshaft.
While under I did notice this body mount/bushing. Its obviously shot but I am not sold this would be causing all the noise I am hearing. On the bright side it does not look like it would be too hard to replace.
That is the mystery body mount. Earlier models didn't even have that bracket. Why does it not connect the body to the frame? Thats why it's a mystery! Not the source of your problem though.
Below is the passenger side upper shock bushing. This may or may not be the cause of my issue but the bushing looks like it is compressed beyond function. Thoughts?
It's function isn't to cushion the road feel, just to isolate metal to metal contact. Still not the cause of your problem.
STRRAYNGE
New member
I had a major clunk in my runner as well from the rearend. I tried to track it down for days with help from others on here. Finally, I went back over every bolt and nut underneath. I was able to get about 1 full turn on the nuts on my panhard bar top mount. After I did that, noise was completely gone. Then a week or so later, I installed Toytec Panhard bracket. Clunk was back. what I had to do then was where the end of the bar goes into the panhard bracket I bought, there was about 1/4" gap that allowed the upper end of the panhard bar to move forward or backward on the bolt causing my clunk. I took a couple washers and placed them between that bracket and panhard bar, tightened back down, no clunk. But that was my issue, yours may be totally different.
First and foremost I want to say thank you everyone who has responded to my thread and many questions. This is a great community and very happy to be part of it!
I have triple checked my panhard bar and there is no gap in between it and the mounts. This was one of the first things I checked as it seems to be one of the most common problems.
As far as no zerks on the driveshaft, they are sealed and maintenance free. I do not feel any odd bumps or shaking when stopping. The brakes are probably the best thing about my 4Runner, it stops hard and straight every time with no drama.
The clunking/chunking sound and feeling are isolated to the passenger side. I have a raised section of pavement on my street. If I go over it and concentrate the driver side of the vehicle it handles it fine. If I drive over it with the passenger side it goes over the bump okay but when exiting it literally feels like the rear end is dropping down and hitting metal. It is some what violent feeling depening on how fast I am going.
Even though my shocks feel good and stiff could they still be bad? At this point I am considering changing the passenger side shock just to see if it makes a difference. Afterall, whats another $35 at this point?
I have triple checked my panhard bar and there is no gap in between it and the mounts. This was one of the first things I checked as it seems to be one of the most common problems.
As far as no zerks on the driveshaft, they are sealed and maintenance free. I do not feel any odd bumps or shaking when stopping. The brakes are probably the best thing about my 4Runner, it stops hard and straight every time with no drama.
The clunking/chunking sound and feeling are isolated to the passenger side. I have a raised section of pavement on my street. If I go over it and concentrate the driver side of the vehicle it handles it fine. If I drive over it with the passenger side it goes over the bump okay but when exiting it literally feels like the rear end is dropping down and hitting metal. It is some what violent feeling depening on how fast I am going.
Even though my shocks feel good and stiff could they still be bad? At this point I am considering changing the passenger side shock just to see if it makes a difference. Afterall, whats another $35 at this point?
STRRAYNGE
New member
Im clueless man. I hope you find it! Noises like that will drive you insane. Mine was exactly the same as you are describing. I thought something was literally about to break and fall out it was so loud! But all I did was tighten my upper PH bolt about 1 full turn, and it was completely gone. I might have missed this in your thread, but did you check your rear control arms and bushings?
Thanks Strraynge. Advance Auto Parts has the Monroe Sensa-trac shocks in stock for $43/ea. I know Amazon has them for $36 but read reviews that people have recieved them without the bushings so I am going to pick them up at Advance today. If possible this evening I am going to remove the control arms on the passenger side to get a good look at the bushings. If the bushings check out I am going to wait until the weekend to install the shocks. One way or another I am going to get this sorted out.
pcleary1210
New member
Can you replicate the issue by shaking the truck side to side, jumping up and down on the back, or anything along those lines?
I have tried jumping up and down on the bumper, pressing against the hatch door, and shaking all the suspension components, nothing moves or squeaks. I am only able to replicate while driving as it seems it needs the weight of the vehicle to create the issue.
Since we were blessed with a light rain this evening and cooler temps I pulled the passenger side control arms off. Both seem to be in good shape and their bushings seemed okay as well. While I had them off I put bolts back through them to work the bushing by hand and they moved just a little and nothing more. None of the bushings were torn or had any signs of damage or distress. See pics below.
Since the control arm bushings checked out I proceeded to install the new rear Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks I purchased after work. The old KYB's came out with a minimal fight and I did not have to break the top studs to remove them. A 14mm deep socket wrench on top, a strap wrench around the upper tube and some good arm strength broke them loose. I am guessing they are not too old so I will credit that with making my job a little easier.
After I buttoned it back up I took it for a test drive. My first impression is that the new Monroe's are a little softer than the KYB's but that is good with me as I expected. However the new shocks did not fix the problem. I drove without the spare tire again and I know everything in the rear is tight. My drive to work tomorrow will be the real proof as I have about 5 miles of crappy road to go over.
Now I am totally lost. One would think after all this any and all problems would be cured but its just not the case. I know I am not crazy as I have owned plenty of trucks and SUV's in the past and none of them acted or felt like this. I am thinking of finding a local 4WD shop in town and let them look at it. The Toyota dealership is a last resort for me. Any other ideas or suggestions are truly welcome. As of tonight I feel defeated :ybrick:
Since we were blessed with a light rain this evening and cooler temps I pulled the passenger side control arms off. Both seem to be in good shape and their bushings seemed okay as well. While I had them off I put bolts back through them to work the bushing by hand and they moved just a little and nothing more. None of the bushings were torn or had any signs of damage or distress. See pics below.
Since the control arm bushings checked out I proceeded to install the new rear Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks I purchased after work. The old KYB's came out with a minimal fight and I did not have to break the top studs to remove them. A 14mm deep socket wrench on top, a strap wrench around the upper tube and some good arm strength broke them loose. I am guessing they are not too old so I will credit that with making my job a little easier.
After I buttoned it back up I took it for a test drive. My first impression is that the new Monroe's are a little softer than the KYB's but that is good with me as I expected. However the new shocks did not fix the problem. I drove without the spare tire again and I know everything in the rear is tight. My drive to work tomorrow will be the real proof as I have about 5 miles of crappy road to go over.
Now I am totally lost. One would think after all this any and all problems would be cured but its just not the case. I know I am not crazy as I have owned plenty of trucks and SUV's in the past and none of them acted or felt like this. I am thinking of finding a local 4WD shop in town and let them look at it. The Toyota dealership is a last resort for me. Any other ideas or suggestions are truly welcome. As of tonight I feel defeated :ybrick:
Whitson Metalworks
New member
i have no advice but am following this thread since i have a crazy clunk/boing! sound when i go over speed bumps... good luck
The drive to work this morning proved what I already knew last night, I am still at square 1. The only thing I have improved is the rear spring sag and it rides better going over bumps, its just the exit/fall off that is horrible. No modern vehicle should ride like this and it is down right frustrating that this problem cannot be solved. If I make and progress this weekend I will post it up.
Nelsonmd
New member
Have you confirmed that it's not the wheel bearings? I would think you would have a whine if it was, but you have eliminated alot of other components already...
BTW, possibly unrelated, but what is the box between the spar tire supports?
Something new to the 01/02's?
BTW, possibly unrelated, but what is the box between the spar tire supports?
Something new to the 01/02's?
Last edited:
Nelsonmd
New member
He does have a hitch, it's in the picture I reposted.
LittleCaesar
New member
My clunk was a bad right front wheel bearing. I knew the bearing was bad, but never suspected that going over speed bumps with a sharp rake would cause such a clunk but it did.
Got that puppy changed out, and all has been good since.
Got that puppy changed out, and all has been good since.
I am not getting a whine or anything from either end of the vehicle. I jumped up and down on the trailer hitch and jacked up the rear a little to see if it moved with some weight on it, nothing. Its nice and tight. I had my 4Runner in the shop few weeks ago to let them look at the rear brakes and try to find out whats causing the noise I am hearing. They did a full inspection on it and said the rear axle seals and bearings were good. They adjusted up my rear brakes but were never able to replicate the noise I was telling them about. I dont think they drove it around long enough. Their brake adjustment did help so not all was lost.
The black plastic box in the picture with the arrow pointing to it is the fuel evap. canister. I thought this might be causing it too and checked it, its firmly mounted in place.
The black plastic box in the picture with the arrow pointing to it is the fuel evap. canister. I thought this might be causing it too and checked it, its firmly mounted in place.
How easy is it to tell if a bearing is bad?
Nelsonmd
New member
Front is very different than rear, but you should hear a whine if it is going bad. If you pull the axle out (as I imagine the shop did), you can look directly at the bearing and try to move the hub to check for play.
Did they move the Evap canister to the rears for 01-02? That's odd; that is a much more exposed location for such an expensive item...
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