Door lock replacement 96 runner

kball

New member
I do not have keyless entry and one night I went out to get into the truck and the key would not turn. It would barely move and I could see the pull tab inside just barely going up but not enough to unlock it. So after some searching and not finding a lot I decided to just tear it apart and see what was up.

First pop the tweeter cover off. It has a hook on the bottom and you can see the round plug that goes in the hole. Once you pop it out of the hole you just lean it back like in the pic and lift it out.

IMG_8195.jpg~original


Then pop the armrest off. It's just the two metal clips that you have to pry out.

IMG_8197.jpg~original


Then pry up the window switch control. It just pops out at the front end. Take the front electrical plug out and swing it up and pull out. Then take out the electrical plug on the bottom end.

IMG_8196.jpg~original


Then take out the two screws on the side of the grab handle. There's also one screw in the door release handle. I took the release handle off before removing the panel. Some people have said to "stick it through the hole in the panel" type of thing. I thought the amount of twisting I was putting on it to do that was a little too much for 14 year old plastic.

IMG_8194.jpg~original


There are two plastic interior plugs that need to come out also. I did not take a pic of them in the door panel but here they are along with the part numbers. One is near the front of the door by the dash and the other is at the back end of the door facing the back end.

IMG_8140.jpg~original


Here's a pic of the door release handle after I took the panel off just to give you an idea of the linkage.

IMG_8144.jpg~original


Then the fun part. Popping off the panel. There's about 8 plastic clips/plugs that hold it on. I just went around with a screwdriver and popped them all off. As you can see in the pic (circled in red), one of the clips broke off mount and all. Not too sure if I did that or if it was already broken but oh well, the panel still fits as tight as it did before.

IMG_8136.jpg~original


This is what you see once you've got the panel off.

IMG_8137.jpg~original


Looking at the lock mechanism, my yellow lock tab had come off just like so many others have had happen. The rod on mine never came out though so I never lost function of the outside handle.

IMG_8135.jpg~original


So after unclipping the yellow and pink lock tabs and pulling the rods out, all it takes is a 10mm socket with an extension and two bolts holding the lock mechanism on the door. Pulled the lock part out which is held in by a metal spring clip and took the lock and a new key I got made off the VIN by the dealer to a locksmith. Dealer charges were $10 for the new key and plastic plugs. Locksmith charge was $25. So for $35 and a couple hours of my time I'm sure I saved a bunch!

IMG_8186.jpg~original


IMG_8145.jpg~original
 
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Thanks guys, I hope it helps people out in the future. I've got a lot of help from this forum and I like to give back what I can.

Got the door fixed just in time for a quick roadtrip to Yosemite where we got rained on. Pretty miserable weather. Heading to Sequoia next where it's supposed to be having a severe snow storm. We'll see how far we get there...
 
Hey Kball:

Awsome write up it worked great for me . My door quit working turned out the yellow clip on the outside door handle broke and the rod got wedged in to the lock some how so door would not shut and close. It made for a fun drive home, holding door closed and driving 15 miles while shifting gears :lookout:. LOL

now need to go to dealer to buy a new part EEK!!!!!


Thank you again,:biggrin2:
snotaz
 
I love it when people take the time to do a really good pictorial write up on things.

My thought is it doesn't add that much time to the project and you save a LOT of people heartache trying to work through trying to figure out things.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Kudos my man!
 
Hey Kball, how hard was it to get those clips from the dealer? Did they just know what you were talking about right away or did they have a diagram that showed the part #'s for the clips? Do you happen to have the part numbers for all the clips that surround the door panel too? Or has anyone found good clips at autozone or something?

(I commited a huge act of negligence by not really searching before I posted this, anyone want to help me be lazy? I have searched before and couldn't find much)
 
Hey Kball, how hard was it to get those clips from the dealer? Did they just know what you were talking about right away or did they have a diagram that showed the part #'s for the clips? Do you happen to have the part numbers for all the clips that surround the door panel too? Or has anyone found good clips at autozone or something?

(I commited a huge act of negligence by not really searching before I posted this, anyone want to help me be lazy? I have searched before and couldn't find much)

No, I didn't replace any of the clips that go around the inside of the interior door panel. I'm sure the dealer would not have any trouble looking them up for you.
 
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good deal. thanks. I felt kinda stupid for asking that question after I posted it. I've just lost and broken so many of those damn plastic clips that I'm always on the look out for a convienent source for them.
 
Great write up and superb photo's . This will be my project this coming week , the old lock(s) have been getting somewhat miserable the last few months . My key fob kicked the bucket for the electro locks so getting locked out now is a possibility :(

Even the rear hatch tumbler only turns the one way now :>|

Thanks man , appreciate the effort you did in the write up !
 
Finally got around to this ( year later lol . ) , but it turns out there is nothing wrong with my locks , was a worn out key :\

Had the locksmith digitize my old key and cut it .
 
Looking at the lock mechanism, my yellow lock tab had come off just like so many others have had happen. The rod on mine never came out though so I never lost function of the outside handle.

IMG_8135.jpg~original


So after unclipping the yellow and pink lock tabs and pulling the rods out, all it takes is a 10mm socket with an extension and two bolts holding the lock mechanism on the door. Pulled the lock part out which is held in by a metal spring clip and took the lock and a new key I got made off the VIN by the dealer to a locksmith. Dealer charges were $10 for the new key and plastic plugs. Locksmith charge was $25. So for $35 and a couple hours of my time I'm sure I saved a bunch!

IMG_8186.jpg~original


IMG_8145.jpg~original

How did you get the rod out of the yellow clip after you pop/release the one end? i fought and fought and could not get the rod out. thought i was going to break the plastic end off the handle assembly
 
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I have had to do this twice now. The first time it came apart no problem. The second time I had the same issue you are. I could not for the life of me get that thing off. I ended up taking the door handle off with the rod still attached or I left it all there and just took the clip off the lock and got it out... it's been a while so I can't remember just what I did and the lock has worked fine since the second fix. I'm sure that thing will pop off with just the right pressure and tweak. I just didn't want to break things in there.
 
I just wanted to say thanks so much for this write up. It helped enormously.

I don't think it's necessary to pop off the tweeter, or at least it wasn't for me. Would also recommend wrapping the end of your flathead screwdriver with electric tape before prying the door off - it's a little easier on your door.

I had the same issue as jb10 where the rod with the yellow locking clip would simply not come out. The pink one came out pretty easily but the yellow just refused, so I had to leave it attached and work around it to get the lock cylinder as well. That took longer than taking the entire door off.

Not sure about anyone else's luck with dealer made keys, but once I took the key I had made at the dealer from the VIN to a real locksmith, it was obvious the dealer had no idea what they were doing.

My suggestion is if you are at the dealer getting a key made from the VIN, ask them to give you your key code as well (should be five digits). That way if it's not working with your cylinder you can just have the locksmith make a proper key. A locksmith can decode your key, it's just cheaper if they have the code to start with.

Thanks again.
 
Clarification please

First, thanks for the great info on how to get to the lock!

It says the problem was a broken yellow tab. Why then the new key and locksmith? Why not just a new yellow tab? I don't know what I am not understanding about this.....

Thanks!
 

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