door rattles (latches???)

From the Haynes manual. Not a good book but all I have.

I suppose you could only do fine adjustments with this.
 

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Seems to be the rubber coating coming off messes things up, cleaning/re-lubing, increasing the the size of the striker loop with electrical tape seem to be the old time fix.



Why are my doors hard to close
Yep, this seems to be it. Both of my driver's side doors have lost the rubber coating and molded-in rubber "springs" as pointed out in the above post. Wrapping some electrical tape around the striker solved the problem completely. The doors were so loose I was having a hard time believing that it could be adjusted enough with just electrical tape. I put some on and both doors fit perfectly flush with the body again. Not sure how long the tape will last but it's cheap enough to replace whenever needed obviously.

Ultimately it's good to know that the degradation of rubber coating on the latch mechanism is what the true problem is.

Anybody have a more durable solution than electrical tape? I'm trying to think of a hard piece of plastic pipe or tubing that could clip on to the striker loop.

Thanks for all the input!!
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Still tracking mine down. Believe it's being caused by one of the interior panel clips affixed from within being shot, I've noticed quite a few haven't held up well with age so wouldn't surprise me. Almost seems like the plastic door trim itself is rattling and hitting the door frame. What sucks is I've fixed it to the point where I can't simulate it while in park anymore, so now it only comes up when driving - time for trial and error, I guess. Good lord does it get annoying. :ak472:
A strange thing I've noticed too is I don't get a rattle when making a decently hard turn in one direction (I think left?)
My locks are also rattling too and that's equally shitty. Will have to give that foam block trick a go sometime before I lose my mind. Still, none of these are as bad as the damn seatbelt buckle rattle - holy hell!
From the Haynes manual. Not a good book but all I have.

I suppose you could only do fine adjustments with this.
This is a load of crap to me, the screws immediately realign the latch to where it was originally. Which makes sense, given theres isn't an open slot for them to move around, but a specific hole which doesn't allow for wiggle room.
 
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This is a load of crap to me, the screws immediately realign the latch to where it was originally. Which makes sense, given theres isn't an open slot for them to move around, but a specific hole which doesn't allow for wiggle room.

It’s the nuts that move. They are not directly welded to the body. They are welded to a plate in there that is semi floating. A hammer tap can slightly move where the nuts are sitting in the door frame. Of course the range of motion is small hence the fine adjustment comment.
 

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