IBallEngineer
New member
Are you looking for the pin out? B16 is on the second page here.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/connecto/connecto.pdf
Door unlock/lock problem
- Thread starter JC41
- Start date
Are you looking for the pin out? B16 is on the second page here.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/connecto/connecto.pdf
That gets me closer, but I don't see a reference to connector B16 on the Body ECU you posted on another thread, nor does the Body ECU have a connector with 23 pins on it.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96.../ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf
(BTW thanks for the quick reply, I have this thing torn down in my driveway right now!).
ok, I think I figured it out. The connector that comes from the door lock switches is actually labeled 1H. Ground 1H pin 10 and that energizes the relay coil and locks the doors. Ground 1H pin 9 and that unlocks the doors. Even matched the wire colors with the pin slots, so that correlates. I have no idea what B16 or even the numbers 11 and 12 mean on the diagram.
When I ground pins 9 and 10 the doors try to unlock/lock (motors act like they are not getting enough current, sometimes the lock and sometimes they don't) and shows the same behavior of the door lock switches themselves, this proves the switches are good and either the relay internal contacts or something else downstream is the problem. I will try to get on the contacts side of the relay tomorrow.
When I ground pins 9 and 10 the doors try to unlock/lock (motors act like they are not getting enough current, sometimes the lock and sometimes they don't) and shows the same behavior of the door lock switches themselves, this proves the switches are good and either the relay internal contacts or something else downstream is the problem. I will try to get on the contacts side of the relay tomorrow.
Attachments
19963.4lsr5
New member
Can you lube up the linkage? Might be full or road grime
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IBallEngineer
New member
OK, I was grilling dinner and painting some parts while I drank a beer and listening to my son playing Norwegian Wood on his guitar so I really didn't pay attention to what you were asking. So B16 is just the location identifier. The actual connector is 1H on the Body ECU. The Pin out for that is here on page 5, not that you really need it.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf
What I don't know is what your actual problem is, did you post it on an earlier post? If you are experience lazy movement, or the actuator tries to work but doesn't, it is most likely the actuator motor itself. You can try providing direct power and ground to the actuator using the EWD you are already using. You can also see this thread for more details about the actuator motor and replacement.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/202720-door-lock-motor-replacement.html
Hope this helps!
:ranger:
calimobber
Member
Just throwing in my input, I had this same issue. all my motors were dyeing. I would hit lock/unlock more than once and the motors would stop working. It would still make the noise but nothing works.
I bought new motors from ebay and replaced them. It was Pretty easy but a little time consuming for the first time. plan on a whole evening for just one to see how long it takes you before diving into all at once.
Mine work amazing now. so fast and instant and never tire out. amazing since it only cost $20
. Just plan on breaking the yellow clips on the door handle. If you can drive down to toyota you can buy 4. Or I had to buy packs online which adds up a little. like $10 for 10( I only needed one) haha
they are left or right door specific but I used a left one for the right now .
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay
Make sure you get the motors like these with the little gears on the motor shaft. The smooth ones wont work( Ask me how I know..... Anyone need 4 smooth shaft motors?? )
I bought new motors from ebay and replaced them. It was Pretty easy but a little time consuming for the first time. plan on a whole evening for just one to see how long it takes you before diving into all at once.
Mine work amazing now. so fast and instant and never tire out. amazing since it only cost $20
. Just plan on breaking the yellow clips on the door handle. If you can drive down to toyota you can buy 4. Or I had to buy packs online which adds up a little. like $10 for 10( I only needed one) hahathey are left or right door specific but I used a left one for the right now .
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay
Make sure you get the motors like these with the little gears on the motor shaft. The smooth ones wont work( Ask me how I know..... Anyone need 4 smooth shaft motors??
)Spent most of the day messing with this. Original problem was the "lazy locking/unlocking" on really all 4 of the doors. I started at the Body ECU because I initially figured the relay was the culprit (although it did have a strong click), but because the 1H connector fed both the coil and the contact side of the relay I could test both without opening up door panels and all those damn plastic clips. Sure enough, I got on 1H (6) and 1H (7) with +12v and GND to lock, reverse polarity to unlock. Same symptoms, conclusion - relay is good.
Attachments
Door panel time. Ended up taking off all 4 door panels, disconnecting the actuators, and testing with 12v on each. They would work two or three times (reversing polarity) then slow to finally stop. Passenger doors worked better than the driver side doors. I read on other threads that as the motor heats up, it will loose torque, thus the "lazy movement" that IBall describes. My conclusion is the motors are the culprit. I took the left rear actuator out just to confirm I needed the motor with the collar (and yep, that damn yellow retaining clip for the door handle broke off!). Just ordered 4 motors from the link that callimobber posted above. Thanks guys!:hatsoff:
To confirm, I have a 2000 4Runner Limited 2WD and the motors need the short shaft FC-280PC-22125 with the brass collar.
Here are some picks of the actuator pulled from the left rear passenger door. On the pic of where my finger is pointing, you can just wiggle the actuator on top of the bracket, then pry the case open along the seam with a screwdriver.
To confirm, I have a 2000 4Runner Limited 2WD and the motors need the short shaft FC-280PC-22125 with the brass collar.
Here are some picks of the actuator pulled from the left rear passenger door. On the pic of where my finger is pointing, you can just wiggle the actuator on top of the bracket, then pry the case open along the seam with a screwdriver.
Attachments
RoofRack
New member
Same Problem, looking for parts
Just discovered that I have this problem, when trying to program locks, found this thread, THANKS for the info!
Looking for the actuators. Is this the right part? https://www.amazon.com/Central-Actuator-Motor-FC-280PT-22125-Collar/dp/B00CM10NE8
And are they all the same? Looks like Left/Right have different gears that slip over them?
Also, I'm getting the lazy locks that indicate bad actuators, but also a lout click from the relay under the dash. Is that bad?
Thanks,
-M
Just discovered that I have this problem, when trying to program locks, found this thread, THANKS for the info!
Looking for the actuators. Is this the right part? https://www.amazon.com/Central-Actuator-Motor-FC-280PT-22125-Collar/dp/B00CM10NE8
And are they all the same? Looks like Left/Right have different gears that slip over them?
Also, I'm getting the lazy locks that indicate bad actuators, but also a lout click from the relay under the dash. Is that bad?
Thanks,
-M
Bump
I have a 99 limited, since I bought it about 6 months ago, its had some interesting things going on with the locks. It started as when you were driving, if you pushed the locks down with your arm, passenger or driver side, you would have to roll down the window, try the exterior door handle, and then you could unlock it with the power locks or pull up on it. Just recently it started to try and lock multiple times after hitting the lock button on the fob or the lock button on the doors. You could hear most of the doors (not all) continuing to try and lock after they were locked. I stopped using the fob, and went to just using the key, and manually unlocking everything. No big deal, but annoying. This week it started constantly trying to lock going down the road. and would sporadically do it at other times. I unhooked all of the door lock switches, driver and passenger, and rear hatch. No moisture, all connections were clean, so I hooked them back up, and tried the fob. It seemed to work, but then when I would press unlock, the alarm goes off. So I unhooked again, and left them unhooked. It seemed to be better, but then all of a sudden they would try and lock again, even with everything unhooked. Its less often, but still happens.
Any insight? I have tried finding a BCM from a yard, but that is proving to be difficult. There were 3 wires at the hatch that had split insulation, but were unbroken. I taped them up and it did not resolve anything. I am also not convinced it isnt the security system. Not aftermarket, it is on the dash above the climate control.
I have a 99 limited, since I bought it about 6 months ago, its had some interesting things going on with the locks. It started as when you were driving, if you pushed the locks down with your arm, passenger or driver side, you would have to roll down the window, try the exterior door handle, and then you could unlock it with the power locks or pull up on it. Just recently it started to try and lock multiple times after hitting the lock button on the fob or the lock button on the doors. You could hear most of the doors (not all) continuing to try and lock after they were locked. I stopped using the fob, and went to just using the key, and manually unlocking everything. No big deal, but annoying. This week it started constantly trying to lock going down the road. and would sporadically do it at other times. I unhooked all of the door lock switches, driver and passenger, and rear hatch. No moisture, all connections were clean, so I hooked them back up, and tried the fob. It seemed to work, but then when I would press unlock, the alarm goes off. So I unhooked again, and left them unhooked. It seemed to be better, but then all of a sudden they would try and lock again, even with everything unhooked. Its less often, but still happens.
Any insight? I have tried finding a BCM from a yard, but that is proving to be difficult. There were 3 wires at the hatch that had split insulation, but were unbroken. I taped them up and it did not resolve anything. I am also not convinced it isnt the security system. Not aftermarket, it is on the dash above the climate control.
RodrickHeffley
Member
To me it sounds like some of your door actuators are going bad, that might not solve your whole issue but it's a starting point
look up Timmy the Toolman on Youtube, he's got a video detailing how to replace them
Your 99 might be trying to auto lock the doors and when it fails it just keeps trying which might be the other issue that can be fixed with new actuators
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That was one of my thoughts, but even when they are all manually locked, it will still try and lock while driving. And most of the time it is all of them going off. It might still be something to look into though.
Also, my security light is blinking all of the time, and when I make sure they are all manually locked, and then lock them with the fob, the light goes solid. the only time it is not blinking, is when the key is in the ignition and it is running.
nathanroyse
New member
I had a similar problem to yours and jumped thru all of the hoops of replacing door lock actuators, finding wires, etc and what turned out to be my problem was the little electrical switch on the back of the actual manual door lock. Like where you stick your key in from the outside. My passenger side one had broke. Try unplugging either one and unlock/lock your doors.
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Old thread - I know - but we are talking about an old car, too. Right?
Heh, heh. But I love my old Toyota 4Runner. I had this same problem. First the key would not unlock the driver side door, so I started using the passenger side. Within a month, it would not unlock the passenger side either.
I eventually went back to drivers side and found that if I rotated the key quickly, it would eventually unlock (while leaving a blister on my fingers). I spent an hour in a mall parking lot messing with it after leaving it overnight.
I have over 420,000 miles on it, so I just leave the doors unlocked everywhere I go. The key got a little bent up and I started having problem with the ignition. So now, she sits in baseball park in an older neighborhood, waiting for me to come and get her in the morning. I am hoping the radio and will still be there. One of the other baseball dads seemed doubtful.
Months ago, when I first discovered the problem, I combed the internet for one of these Body ECMs. I ordered one off ebay that was cheap, too, but they sent the wrong module. I sent it back and found they did not have the right part.
Sigh. I normally don't bond with physical things but I bought that car new in late 1999. Lots of memories. It is still getting me where I need to go, too. Well, maybe not anymore.
Thanks for allowing me to decompress. Time to go to sleep and take tomorrow off for my big baby.
Heh, heh. But I love my old Toyota 4Runner. I had this same problem. First the key would not unlock the driver side door, so I started using the passenger side. Within a month, it would not unlock the passenger side either.
I eventually went back to drivers side and found that if I rotated the key quickly, it would eventually unlock (while leaving a blister on my fingers). I spent an hour in a mall parking lot messing with it after leaving it overnight.
I have over 420,000 miles on it, so I just leave the doors unlocked everywhere I go. The key got a little bent up and I started having problem with the ignition. So now, she sits in baseball park in an older neighborhood, waiting for me to come and get her in the morning. I am hoping the radio and will still be there. One of the other baseball dads seemed doubtful.
Months ago, when I first discovered the problem, I combed the internet for one of these Body ECMs. I ordered one off ebay that was cheap, too, but they sent the wrong module. I sent it back and found they did not have the right part.
Sigh. I normally don't bond with physical things but I bought that car new in late 1999. Lots of memories. It is still getting me where I need to go, too. Well, maybe not anymore.
Thanks for allowing me to decompress. Time to go to sleep and take tomorrow off for my big baby.
