Drive shaft slip yoke help

[A-dog]

When I was lubing the slip yoke today, I made a huge error I think. I made a mark before dissasemly to help line everything back up once I finished. However, during the process of lubing, I rubbed off the alignment mark I had made. I put the joint back together, hoping everything would be fine. I feel like there may me a slight vibration at 65+mph that may be in my head. What do you recommend I do? Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

The slip yoke is balanced with the main propeller shaft as one unit. There's so many splines on that shaft that you'd have to be pretty lucky to get it back in the right spot. Unless you want to try all those combinations and take a test drive after each one to see if you feel any vibrations, I'd just bite the bullet and go to a shop that can rebalance it for you. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't cost you that much.

 

[A-dog]

When I put it back together, I just rotated the output side to fit with the slip yoke. I would have to try every single spline combination to find the original combination. Then test drive it each time. There must be around 100 (or more!) possible combinations, right? Is it bad for the components to drive it out of balance?

 

[Konkordmusk]

It does not matter the orientation of the slip joint splines. What matters is that the u-joints are in the same phase, or orientation. This is the only thing that can cause vibration; the Spicer Dana driveshaft bible states exactly this.

 

[A-dog]

Is there a way to find the original orientation?

 

[pluton]

The FSM has a page about this. Check there.

 

[diverscale]

no panic, just assemble it back as the engine manual states.

both hands in same direction. Or assemble it outside the truck, and ''aim'' both of the hands. Though, I can't figure which way the zerks point. I assemble mine with zerks pointing same way.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Yes, Zerks the same direction. There aren't many possible ways to configure it at that point. Maybe 4 or 5, but you should be able to get it close by eyeing it.

Curious, why did you take it apart? I have lubed lots of driveshafts and never disassembled them.

 

[mtbtim]

It does not matter the orientation of the slip joint splines. What matters is that the u-joints are in the same phase, or orientation. This is the only thing that can cause vibration; the Spicer Dana driveshaft bible states exactly this.

You and [MENTION=84331]diverscale[/MENTION] seem pretty sure about this. So, are you both saying that every driveshaft produced by Toyota has the same exact amount of weight in the same exact location on every driveshaft so all you have to do is line up the u-joints and you'll be balanced every time?

The FSM specifically states to make matchmarks to get the orientation of the slip yoke and propeller shaft back the way it was if you're pulling it apart for whatever reason. Why don't they just say line up the u-joints?

 

[mtbtim]

Yes, Zerks the same direction. There aren't many possible ways to configure it at that point. Maybe 4 or 5, but you should be able to get it close by eyeing it.

Curious, why did you take it apart? I have lubed lots of driveshafts and never disassembled them.

I'm guessing he took it apart because the slip yoke zerk fitting does a poor job at best to lubricate the slip yoke splines. All the grease ends up at the bottom of the yoke and very little if any makes it way to the upper splines. This is why many of us have that annoying slip yoke clunk. Taking apart the slip yoke, manually greasing the splines and putting it back together is the best way in my opinion to properly lubricate it.

 

[I_bRAD]

You and [MENTION=84331]diverscale[/MENTION] seem pretty sure about this. So, are you both saying that every driveshaft produced by Toyota has the same exact amount of weight in the same exact location on every driveshaft so all you have to do is line up the u-joints and you'll be balanced every time?

Probably not, but it is also probably safe to say that every driveshaft was assembled with the yokes parallel, and then balanced. So... unless he's changed out one of the components, as long as the yokes are parallel you're good.

 

[thegipper]

I always just mark the slip yoke where it attaches (the four bolt area) with a paint marker. I remove the four bolt/nuts and leave the rest of the drive shaft attached. I clean up the inside of the slip yoke and brush in new grease on the splines. I also didn't even bother putting the zerk back in because it is 100% worthless.

As Tim mentioned, the zerk just pumps grease into the bottom of the slip yoke. None of the grease gets on the splines and it actually makes the slip yoke bind up because it cannot articulate all the way down. This is another reason why I left the zerk out, to allow air to escape through the hole. If I was planning on going through deep water or mud I would probably put the zerk back in but for the "off roading" and daily driving I do, I see no reason for the zerk even to be in there.

My slip yoke never binds any more and I haven't had the "clunk" once since using this method.

If the drive shaft was removed also, then there can be a bunch of different combinations. Just another reason why you should just leave the driveshaft attached and just remove the slip yoke. And make sure you mark it with something that won't rub off....

Good luck either way

 

[nobb]

Once you disassemble and clean the slip yoke, doesn't grease flow properly through the zerk and eventually to the splines? It's not an immediate thing...but gradually. I did that with my front drive shafts and it seems the grease is flowing out ok now.

 

[TheDurk]

Probably not, but it is also probably safe to say that every driveshaft was assembled with the yokes parallel, and then balanced. So... unless he's changed out one of the components, as long as the yokes are parallel you're good.

This. As original owner and only wrench to touch my rig, that's the way my shaft is, just as it came from the factory, with zerks pointing the same way, so you can grease them all once you get one right. I have never had mine apart. It seems to lube just fine with three or four strokes every six months. I never had a clunk.

 

[mtbtim]

Probably not, but it is also probably safe to say that every driveshaft was assembled with the yokes parallel, and then balanced. So... unless he's changed out one of the components, as long as the yokes are parallel you're good.

Alright, now I understand what they were saying. The driveshaft is balanced in the same orientation so as long as you get the slip yoke back in the same orientation as before, it should be very close or perfectly balanced.

 

[mtbtim]

Once you disassemble and clean the slip yoke, doesn't grease flow properly through the zerk and eventually to the splines? It's not an immediate thing...but gradually. I did that with my front drive shafts and it seems the grease is flowing out ok now.

I guess it's luck of the draw. Maybe regular greasing of the zerk fitting will keep you clunk free. My rig was doing it when I bought it and nothing fixed it until I took it apart and manually greased it. I'm guessing when people don't regularly grease it, the splines incur excessive wear and the slip yoke doesn't necessarily slip as well anymore. I may be wrong, but I think the splines come from the factory with a specail coating of whatever that allows the splines to slide better. When the yoke isn't properly lubricated, that coating gets worn off and then doesn't slide as well anymore. I've taken a good look at the male splines and there's different shades of metal on the splines giving me the idea something wore off over time.

I thing [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] is on to something by keeping the zerk fitting off. I've noticed there's built up pressure every time I take off the zerk fitting. I just drilled out the center ball on my zerk and I'm going to try driving around like that for a while. My clunk comes back pretty quick after manually regreasing the yoke so maybe the pressure build-up is adding to the problem.

 

[thegipper]

Since I removed my zerk, not a single slip yoke clunk. If you try to install the slip yoke even if you just brush on grease onto the splines, its like a bike pump. You can feel the pressure build up the further it pushes down. Now eliminate even more volume in that cylinder because there is a bunch of grease built up on the bottom and it makes it even worse.

Who knows why some people don't have issues and why, like us, it binds up. It's hard to say. All I know is manual greasing twice a year and removing the zerk has yielded a "clunk" free slip yoke for many moons now.

 

[frodiesel]

I have had the clunk on and off for about 50k miles. Going to pull my ds zerk and report back.

 

[cbr900boy]

Since I removed my zerk, not a single slip yoke clunk. If you try to install the slip yoke even if you just brush on grease onto the splines, its like a bike pump. You can feel the pressure build up the further it pushes down. Now eliminate even more volume in that cylinder because there is a bunch of grease built up on the bottom and it makes it even worse.

Who knows why some people don't have issues and why, like us, it binds up. It's hard to say. All I know is manual greasing twice a year and removing the zerk has yielded a "clunk" free slip yoke for many moons now.

Hmmmm sounds like you got something there. Manually applying grease to the splines always appealed to me for even coverage. I might have to try this one. What do you use to prevent dirt and water from getting in after removing the zerk?

 

[thegipper]

Nothing. I'm really not worried about it as long as I'm not "mudding" which I don't do and not crossing rivers, which I don't do. The hole is tiny so I would be surprised if anything is getting in there. Plus water/mud/dirt can get into the spines since there is no "seal" anyways.

You could do what Tim did and just drill out the zerk ball, then it's at least a much smaller hole.