Drive shaft slip yoke help

[mtbtim]

Hmmmm sounds like you got something there. Manually applying grease to the splines always appealed to me for even coverage. I might have to try this one. What do you use to prevent dirt and water from getting in after removing the zerk?

I just drilled the ball out of my zerk to allow pressure to leave and at the same time reduce the chance of dirt getting into the slip yoke. If I plan on going through water crossings, I'll install an unaltered zerk. I just don't know if any appreciable amount of rain water kicking up under the rig could get inside while the driveshaft is spinning. I'm thinking due to centrifugal force, not much if any could get in the tiny hole I drilled out of the zerk fitting. I guess time will tell.

 

[Solidape]

I had a clunk in my rear end that ended up being contaminated brake shoes sticking to the drum. The shoes, when contaminated with rear end gear oil seeping past the seal, will stick to the drum after braking. When accelerating, the brakes pop free and cause a clunk. Just something else to think about.

 

[A-dog]

Greasing the splines, rather than simply greasing from the fitting, eliminates the clunk. That is why many of us on here do this on a regular basis. I use a special lube from I believe ford that is designed for this exact use. It has been recommended numerous times on here by members. Just don't be an idiot like me and clearly mark the correct orientation of the yoke in relation to the driveshaft! Thank you all for your help. I will align the hands on the yoke with the other end and see if that puts things back to normal. I only removed the one side by the rear diff, so it shouldn't be too difficult to find the original orientation.

 

[Konkordmusk]

You and [MENTION=84331]diverscale[/MENTION] seem pretty sure about this. So, are you both saying that every driveshaft produced by Toyota has the same exact amount of weight in the same exact location on every driveshaft so all you have to do is line up the u-joints and you'll be balanced every time?

The FSM specifically states to make matchmarks to get the orientation of the slip yoke and propeller shaft back the way it was if you're pulling it apart for whatever reason. Why don't they just say line up the u-joints?

The FSM has been wrong before; I think even you have pointed it out in that some of the torque specs do not make sense. I'm not saying it's wrong in this case, but their way of explaining the re-installation of a two piece propeller shaft is very user friendly, and simple to understand. Driveshaft u-joint phasing is an art.
The not-so-user friendly driveline bible can be found here. I refer to it for 99% of my driveshaft concerns: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/DSIG-3311.pdf

 

[I_bRAD]

The not-so-user friendly driveline bible can be found here. I refer to it for 99% of my driveshaft concerns: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/DSIG-3311.pdf

Very useful. Thank you!

 

[thegipper]

Greasing the splines, rather than simply greasing from the fitting, eliminates the clunk. That is why many of us on here do this on a regular basis. I use a special lube from I believe ford that is designed for this exact use. It has been recommended numerous times on here by members. Just don't be an idiot like me and clearly mark the correct orientation of the yoke in relation to the driveshaft! Thank you all for your help. I will align the hands on the yoke with the other end and see if that puts things back to normal. I only removed the one side by the rear diff, so it shouldn't be too difficult to find the original orientation.

If you didn't drop the other end than it can only be four possible orientations. I would start with what you are planning to do since that is probably the correct one based on the previous posts. Come to think of it, I think mine are orientated the way others have said and the way it is shown in the illustration. I still mark mine just to be certain and it's easier to remember.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm not sure why everyone freaks out over getting the yoke/flange connection back in the same position. Yeah, in an ideal world you want to do it, but it isn't necessary.

U-joint phasing? Very important... Position on drive flanges? Not so much.

-Charlie

 

[I_bRAD]

I'm not sure why everyone freaks out over getting the yoke/flange connection back in the same position. Yeah, in an ideal world you want to do it, but it isn't necessary.

U-joint phasing? Very important... Position on drive flanges? Not so much.

-Charlie

Position on flanges is easy enough at least. I leave one bolt/nut loosely threaded on the flange and another on the mating position on the driveshaft. Bonus that you only stand to lose HALF the bolts once you accidentally kick the pile!

 

[nobb]

I'm not sure why everyone freaks out over getting the yoke/flange connection back in the same position. Yeah, in an ideal world you want to do it, but it isn't necessary.

U-joint phasing? Very important... Position on drive flanges? Not so much.

-Charlie

Exactly. U-joint phasing is the most critical for vibration because the inherent geometry of a u-joint means that it's not a constant velocity joint. Although balancing of the driveshaft is also important, the small spinning radius and relatively low weight means that any vibrations from an imbalanced shaft will be next to impossible to detect under normal conditions without special tools.

 

[noxor]

I just drilled the ball out of my zerk to allow pressure to leave and at the same time reduce the chance of dirt getting into the slip yoke. If I plan on going through water crossings, I'll install an unaltered zerk. I just don't know if any appreciable amount of rain water kicking up under the rig could get inside while the driveshaft is spinning. I'm thinking due to centrifugal force, not much if any could get in the tiny hole I drilled out of the zerk fitting. I guess time will tell.

I went to grease my zirc on my (new to me) 3rd gen today and found two interesting things.

1) The front driveshaft is on backwards compared to what the FSM says

and

2) The slip yoke zirc was replaced with a hex bolt (so I replaced it with the proper zirc)

Any red flags in your (or anyone else's opinion)? I found a thread on i h8 mud that talks about this and says the direction doesn't matter.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-propeller-shaft-position-problem.293229/

 

[mtbtim]

I went to grease my zirc on my (new to me) 3rd gen today and found two interesting things.

1) The front driveshaft is on backwards compared to what the FSM says

and

2) The slip yoke zirc was replaced with a hex bolt (so I replaced it with the proper zirc)

Any red flags in your (or anyone else's opinion)? I found a thread on i h8 mud that talks about this and says the direction doesn't matter.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-propeller-shaft-position-problem.293229/

The hex bolt instead of a zerk fitting is nothing to worry about unless the previous owner never greased it. With lifted trucks and a little more movement in the rear axle during 4wheeling, the slip yoke zerk fitting can come in contact with the fuel tank skid plate and break off. Maybe this is why your PO removed it and put a hex head bolt. When it's time to grease it, put a zerk fitting in, grease it up, remove the zerk fitting and put the hex bolt back in.

Now, with the front driveshaft being on backwards, it probably doesn't make a difference, but maybe it does. If it were my rig, I'd remove it and put it back on in the correct orientation.

 

[noxor]

Thanks Tim!

By the way thanks so much for your youtube channel your vids are great content and very clear!!

 

[cbr900boy]

Since I removed my zerk, not a single slip yoke clunk. If you try to install the slip yoke even if you just brush on grease onto the splines, its like a bike pump. You can feel the pressure build up the further it pushes down. Now eliminate even more volume in that cylinder because there is a bunch of grease built up on the bottom and it makes it even worse.

Who knows why some people don't have issues and why, like us, it binds up. It's hard to say. All I know is manual greasing twice a year and removing the zerk has yielded a "clunk" free slip yoke for many moons now.

Well its been a week since i removed the zerk and i can say with 100% certainty that the "bump" is gone. Its funny cause everytime i stop i anticipate the bump but nothing, it is a strange feeling. It even feels like my rear suspension is "softer". The amount of presure build up is incedible. I greased the front driveline and after removing the zerk to release the pressure the amount of grease squeezing out was crazy. Fyi, i put the zerk back for the front, i just removed it to release the pressure.