Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

[mbumpus11]

Are you talking the cable from the actuator to the door? Or a rod from the handle itself. Appears to be a metal rod from the handle that is not connected to something in the door.

Just to clarify, I am having issues with the outside handle. Interior handle works just fine.

Did you get the outdoor handle working again? A couple posts above I had made a note of what to do under the "***EDIT***" segment of the post to make sure you get that physical rod back in the right spot for the ext handle. I had the same issue with interior/electrical locks/door working, but the handle wouldn't open from the outside.

Let us know!

 

[ssgcmwatson]

Thanks - mine went out recently and this is very helpful!

 

[rjb75]

Just changed mine today-the write up is spot on. Instead of trying to get the door lock cylinder rod aligned properly, I made sure the rod for the outside handle was in properly and removed the lock cylinder to align it once everything else was back together. Made it very straight forward.

 

[kirbyyy86]

I'm so appreciative of this post- I was quoted nearly $750 to replace my driver's side actuator. My question is this- it seems to not be "dead". When I press the lock button on the remote, the door makes a noise that sounds like a buzzing duck, for lack of better descriptive. Like the motor is working but just not connecting, instead of the part being no good.

It started when I was locked inside my own car, unable to open the door from the inside, and then unable to lock even with a key. Now after some force, I can lock using the manual slider near the door handle, as well as with the physical key in the exterior door. It just buzzes/grinds when I hit the windowsill button or the remote. Does anyone have any ideas as to what my first step would be to investigate further?

 

[mbumpus11]

I'm so appreciative of this post- I was quoted nearly $750 to replace my driver's side actuator. My question is this- it seems to not be "dead". When I press the lock button on the remote, the door makes a noise that sounds like a buzzing duck, for lack of better descriptive. Like the motor is working but just not connecting, instead of the part being no good.

It started when I was locked inside my own car, unable to open the door from the inside, and then unable to lock even with a key. Now after some force, I can lock using the manual slider near the door handle, as well as with the physical key in the exterior door. It just buzzes/grinds when I hit the windowsill button or the remote. Does anyone have any ideas as to what my first step would be to investigate further?

This sound you describe is common before the motor fully dies. If it makes noise when using the button/key fob but isn't powering the lock/unlock, your motor needs to be replaced. What you're likely hearing is the whine of the motor internals attempting to turn the spindle which in turn moves the cables/locks. I don't know for certain, but I don't think you're at risk of any serious damage, just the inconvenience of having to manually lock/unlock once it does officially go kaput.

My main question regarding the "force" part is if you have any issues with the actual handle itself? Hopefully not, as those are sheathed cables inside the door cavity just like the cables for the lock mechs. If that is an issue, have you had any problems with your window rolling down/staying down? Sounds like there could be a physical obstruction which would likely be discoverable by using the first part of this thread to remove the plastic interior door covering (it comes off pretty easy, shockingly easy for some).

Let us know your finding!

 

[Pilotmatt]

I love how we find these posts. Usually means you’ve done screwed up. I just did the exact same thing for the front passenger door. Fortunately, I did not fully put the door panel on and was able to bend it away from the top where it catches the window.

I was able to then pull on the door unlock cable. If I had put that door panel on all the way I would have likely had to cut a hole in it.

 

[alecgreen]

Just wanted to hop on here and say thank you all so much for the detailed write-up and photos, as well as follow up commentary.

I completed the repair in about 3 hours (both front doors) but did have to take the panel back off the passenger an additional time since I forgot to connect the outside door handle to the actuator.

Simply put, most folks can complete this project with basic tools (Torx 30 was the only semi-specialty). The sticky putty on the interior went right back in place. The only consumable I had was the weather seal on the actuator, which I simply replaced with electrical tape... we'll see how it holds up.

It was a little tricky to get the panel to slide back into place, I would recommend putting the window down to have a little more room to "hook" it on.

I used the Amazon 2 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 Flat Shaft, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair and they were an exact plug and play replacement and were only $13.

 

[RO1973]

I did my driver's side door a month ago and a week later, the passenger one went out. I just ended up replacing all of them.

 

[smtd3]

Just wanted to hop on here and say thank you so much for the detailed guide and troubleshooting input from everyone. I was able to change both my front door actuators with no issues. I did want to note that the white accordian-like pins that attach the door panel back on should all be attached to the panel, instead of some individual ones staying on the door itself (flat back is exposed rather than the pointy side). I found it difficult to put the door panel back on with 2-3 of the white pins not correctly in place to snap on. Other than that, everything was smooth.

 

[Humble Leader]

guys / gals. here is a tip to remove the door panel

DO NOT lift it up and out. it will be damn hard to get out. INSTEAD. the piece that hooks into the door separates from the rest of the panel with some clips. instead of lifting. hold the door and pull it horizontally away from the glass. it will pop out with some persuasion. and getting it back on will be a breeze. I just replaced my my drivers side rear door and used this method. replacement took minutes

 

[Humble Leader]

edit : *it will be damn hard to get the panel back in*