driver's door won't open from inside

rcd771

New member
My son's '97 4runner is needing a new lock assembly. The door handle will not pull the rod quite far enough. You can pull the handle out, then pull the handle & rod forward and the door will open. Nothing is broken, just too much slack. Does anyone have any ideas on where to find one? Dealership is almost $400. Trying eBay, Craigslist, local salvage yards, but no luck...
 
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My son's '97 4runner is needing a new lock assembly. The door handle will not pull the rod quite far enough. You can pull the handle out, then pull the handle & rod forward and the door will open. Nothing is broken, just too much slack. Does anyone have any ideas on where to find one? Dealership is almost $400. Trying eBay, Craigslist, local salvage yards, but no luck...

Are you sure the little clip guide thingy inside the door isn't broken? Same thing happened to me and I fixed it with some washers and a zip tie.

Watch this video
https://youtu.be/Nrlgq-UiGCI
 
My son's '97 4runner is needing a new lock assembly. The door handle will not pull the rod quite far enough. You can pull the handle out, then pull the handle & rod forward and the door will open. Nothing is broken, just too much slack. Does anyone have any ideas on where to find one? Dealership is almost $400. Trying eBay, Craigslist, local salvage yards, but no luck...

personally, after 20 years of opening and closing, i'd replace the lock assembly. i did it to my front doors and what a difference. unless the price went up, i bought mine from camelback toyota. they were 100 something each.
 
driver's door lock

The lock assembly has been out of the door twice. Nothing is broken, all the retainer clips are there. There is just too much play in the lock for the door handle rod to move far enough to open the door. It does have power locks.
I believe list price is around $480. I've found one for @ $362 from the Toyota dealer. Didn't see one in Dorman, or other aftermarket brand.
 
Hmm... I found 3 possible part numbers for these.

One for the passenger front:
69310-35150 LOCK ASSEMBLY, FRONT DOOR, RIGHT. LOCK,DOOR - $164.74 from Camelback Online

Two for the driver's front:
69320-35150 LOCK ASSEMBLY, FRONT DOOR, LEFT. LOCK,DOOR; W(ELECTROMAGNETIC LOCK) - Not listed from Camelback Online

69040-35150 LOCK ASSEMBLY, FRONT DOOR, LEFT. LOCK,DOOR; W(ELECTROMAGNETIC LOCK) - $337.67 from Camelback Online
 
This seems strange that there is "slack" in the components. To my knowledge it is all metal and plastic. Those aren't materials that typically stretch enough cause it not to open due to slack. Something is off somewhere. I had issues with my door and it was because a guide clip that holds the door was broken and wouldn't hold it in place enough allowing "slack" and thus preventing it from working properly. I used a thin metal strip and a self tapping screw to fix this.


Look it over and maybe take a look at the opposite side door to see what differences there are. Something isn't right and $400 or hell $100 is likely WAY more than you need to spend to fix it. Most issues with door opening problems can be fixed with zip ties and other things you already have.
 
The lock assembly has been out of the door twice. Nothing is broken, all the retainer clips are there. There is just too much play in the lock for the door handle rod to move far enough to open the door. It does have power locks.
I believe list price is around $480. I've found one for @ $362 from the Toyota dealer. Didn't see one in Dorman, or other aftermarket brand.

Again, I'd look at the clip that allows the metal rod to slide back and forth. It's halfway between the assembly and the handle. I agree with another poster that said there isn't much to flex there. And the handle opens from the outside, suggesting the lock and latch mechanism are OK.
 
Did this happen after you had the door apart? If so, the inside release handle has to be reinserted properly or the door will not open.
 
Sounds like what happened to mine on both sides. The little plastic clip that holds the rod to the door frame broke. I threaded a zip tie through the hole to tighten the rod to the door and it fixed the problem.
 
Did this happen after you had the door apart? If so, the inside release handle has to be reinserted properly or the door will not open.

Agree. If the inner handle isn't placed properly and fit exactly into place, it will also create problems and fail to open, even if the inner door clip is not broken.
 
Are you sure the little clip guide thingy inside the door isn't broken? Same thing happened to me and I fixed it with some washers and a zip tie.

Watch this video
https://youtu.be/Nrlgq-UiGCI

For those who aren't poor, I found the OEM part number for the rod slider thing that causes this: 69749-89101. It cost about $2 from the dealer. Looks like I'm eating ramen for the next few months, but at least it's OEM. ;)
 
For those who aren't poor, I found the OEM part number for the rod slider thing that causes this: 69749-89101. It cost about $2 from the dealer. Looks like I'm eating ramen for the next few months, but at least it's OEM. ;)

Lol - very true. But while you're waiting for a part, this is a quick fix that stops you from having to switch seats just to get out of your car, and looking like a total doofus.
 
Lol - very true. But while you're waiting for a part, this is a quick fix that stops you from having to switch seats just to get out of your car, and looking like a total doofus.

One screw to remove the interior door handle pull. Then you can pull the metal rod. The temporary zip tie is just a cheapass waste of time.
 
One screw to remove the interior door handle pull. Then you can pull the metal rod. The temporary zip tie is just a cheapass waste of time.

You and I have very different definitions of "waste of time". A "cheapass" solution that at least in my case, took all of 10 minutes and has lasted so far for over two years seems like a pretty decent outcome.

"Cheapass" might be a better term to describe some of the plastic parts used in our cars. Off the top of my head, the entire dash comes to mind.

I'm glad someone pointed out the part number, but harping about this seems like more of a "waste of time" to me.
 
You and I have very different definitions of "waste of time". A "cheapass" solution that at least in my case, took all of 10 minutes and has lasted so far for over two years seems like a pretty decent outcome.

"Cheapass" might be a better term to describe some of the plastic parts used in our cars. Off the top of my head, the entire dash comes to mind.

I'm glad someone pointed out the part number, but harping about this seems like more of a "waste of time" to me.

Nah bro
 

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