Driveshaft Clunk-Thud **UPDATE**

Green Grease

After trying different things over the years, I stumbled across another post recommending Green Grease. Didn't expect it to work because I had been let down with previous attempts. After 10,000 miles, still no clunk. Not sure why, but the Green Grease eliminated the clunk immediately.
 
Has anyone created a sticky with images for a DIY replacement of the shaft? I have also used a local drivetrain company to have two drive shafts on other vehicles rebuilt is that an option or does it maintain the same issue. Will try the zerk removal first.
 
Has anyone created a sticky with images for a DIY replacement of the shaft? I have also used a local drivetrain company to have two drive shafts on other vehicles rebuilt is that an option or does it maintain the same issue. Will try the zerk removal first.


try removing the zerk and see if anything comes out, put the zerk back in, then pumped it full of grease, take the zerk off again to let any grease under pressure come out and then finally put the zerk back in. I had a real bad clunk and now it's gone.
 
My clunking issue was solved 100%. I completely removed the zerk from my rear slip yoke. Now hear me out, the reason why we get clunks is not because of the lack of grease but from pressure building up then releasing, hence the "clunk." You can experiment with this by removing the four nuts and bolts, then pushing and pulling on the slip yoke. You will feel the resistance due to the pressure and suction. The air pressure has no where to go. By removing the zerk, that air can escape quickly which eliminates the clunk.

You might think that dirt and debris might be an issue but the hole is very small and even if dirt did get inside, there are no moving parts i.e. needle bearings, etc. The spline and tube can be easily cleaned and manually greased.

I've driven over 500 miles and tried everything to replicate the "clunk" and was unable. It almost feels weird not to feel the clunk. I would try removing the zerk to see if it works for you.

Different thread:

I guess it's luck of the draw. Maybe regular greasing of the zerk fitting will keep you clunk free. My rig was doing it when I bought it and nothing fixed it until I took it apart and manually greased it. I'm guessing when people don't regularly grease it, the splines incur excessive wear and the slip yoke doesn't necessarily slip as well anymore. I may be wrong, but I think the splines come from the factory with a special coating of whatever that allows the splines to slide better. When the yoke isn't properly lubricated, that coating gets worn off and then doesn't slide as well anymore. I've taken a good look at the male splines and there's different shades of metal on the splines giving me the idea something wore off over time.

I thing [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] is on to something by keeping the zerk fitting off. I've noticed there's built up pressure every time I take off the zerk fitting. I just drilled out the center ball on my zerk and I'm going to try driving around like that for a while. My clunk comes back pretty quick after manually regreasing the yoke so maybe the pressure build-up is adding to the problem.



Is anyone else running without zerks after pumping in a metric shit ton of grease? (I don't have an imperial shit ton gauge, sorry :biggrin1:)

It seems the best option to me, to get the grease up the splines where it needs to be, and then let any excess seep out. I could drill the ball out of a zerk and put it back in to make the chances of contamination even less.

I think my slip yoke may have been seized, as I notice this slight thunk now sometimes, after pumping in a mere 10 pumps or so a month ago.

Would greasing with the wheels raised allow the grease to potentially travel further, and help it spread when the wheels are lowered?

[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] how are you getting on with no zerks?
 
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Different thread:





Is anyone else running without zerks after pumping in a metric shit ton of grease? (I don't have an imperial shit ton gauge, sorry :biggrin1:)

It seems the best option to me, to get the grease up the splines where it needs to be, and then let any excess seep out. I could drill the ball out of a zerk and put it back in to make the chances of contamination even less.

I think my slip yoke may have been seized, as I notice this slight thunk now sometimes, after pumping in a mere 10 pumps or so a month ago.

Would greasing with the wheels raised allow the grease to potentially travel further, and help it spread when the wheels are lowered?

[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] how are you getting on with no zerks?

I ran it without any zerks for couple years with zero issues. Eventually I installed a small breather in place of where the zerk went. It's also been fine for a couple years now.

I found that removing the slip yoke and just brushing on grease on the splined shaft was the best way to keep it all lubed up without building a bunch of grease up at the bottom.

I got the breather from a member on here (@JZiggy).
 
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I ran it without any zerks for couple years with zero issues. Eventually I installed a small breather in place of where the zerk went. It's also been fine for a couple years now.

I found that removing the slip yoke and just brushing on grease on the splined shaft was the best way to keep it all lubed up without building a bunch of grease up at the bottom.

I got the breather from a member on here, unfortunately I don't remember who it was.

What timing mate, it is 13:25 here and I have just put the truck up on ramps ready to pump the slip joint full of grease. Having a bit of lunch and one last check for replies before I started.

I don't think I have the skills or confidence to split the slip yoke apart, so this will have to do.

Thanks very much for replying, much appreciated. :)
 
What timing mate, it is 13:25 here and I have just put the truck up on ramps ready to pump the slip joint full of grease. Having a bit of lunch and one last check for replies before I started.

I don't think I have the skills or confidence to split the slip yoke apart, so this will have to do.

Thanks very much for replying, much appreciated. :)

You should just have to remove the four 14mm nuts on the slip yoke and slide it out. I cleaned mine off real good with brake cleaner then just brushed on the grease onto the splines. You can also remove the zerk fitting while it's off and then reinstall the yoke. It should solve your drive shaft clunking problem.

I also marked the slip yoke with a paint marker so that when I reinstalled it, it was clocked in the same exact spot as it was before.

I just noticed this is on the 4th gen section, to be clear, I did this on my 3rd gen. I'm assuming everything is probably the same though.
 
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You should just have to remove the four 14mm nuts on the slip yoke and slide it out. I cleaned mine off real good with brake cleaner then just brushed on the grease onto the splines. You can also remove the zerk fitting while it's off and then just reinstall it. It should solve your drive shaft clunking problem.

I also marked the slip yoke with a paint marker so that when I reinstalled it, it was clocked in the same exact spot as it was before.

I just noticed this is on the 4th gen section, to be clear, I did this on my 3rd gen. I'm assuming everything is probably the same though.

All done!

I pumped grease in until thick black old grease came through the seal, and then carried on until there was approx 5mm/ 3/16 inch of movement in the drive shaft. At that point I removed the zerk.

My observation from doing this is that I strongly advise anyone who has filled up the slip yoke to the point you see movement, as I have seen mentioned in a few threads, to remove the zerk and bounce the suspension. Thick grease was forced from the hole with such force that it reached the underside of the body. I can only imagine what forces that would have put on the drive line components, if I had not done so.

I also took it for a drive, then put the zerk back in. The clunk (More a feeling of 'wind up' in the drive line, that was felt when releasing the brake after stopping) was reduced and seemed to get better the further I drove.

Thank you again thegipper.
 

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