Driveshaft grease, which one

[ron in sc]

I know this topic has been covered but my questions deal with another part of the driveshaft grease questions.

Service manager at Toyota said they do not sell grease for driveshaft. I got the impression the mechanics use what they have.

There is a document I think I saw on this forum regarding driveshaft grease, I also have a copy of document.

From review it seems ok to use Molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGL no. 2 The service manager said it was important to use a grease with molybdenum.

I have no local access to greases that I believe are of quality I am looking for. I can get grease from other sources out of town.

The greases are Shell, Mystik(Citgo), and Mobil. The only differences involves the percent of Moly present in the grease. Between the three one of them has .75%, another has 3% and the other one has one percent .

So what is the significance of the amount of moly in the grease?

 

[eddiebx]

Check out this thread, they go into a pretty detailed discussion about the differences: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html

 

[ron in sc]

Check out this thread, they go into a pretty detailed discussion about the differences: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html

I read that great thread again but I could not find discussion regarding the questions I asked about the percent of moly and the significance of same.

Could you kindly point me to the posts that deal with same when you have a chance.

 

[eddiebx]

I read that great thread again but I could not find discussion regarding the questions I asked about the percent of moly and the significance of same.

Could you kindly point me to the posts that deal with same when you have a chance.

I think in the 2nd post in the thread, the guy talks about different percentages of moly for different applications? It's easy to miss because the values in the chart didn't cut and paste over too well, so in case you are having trouble seeing it, it's basically an excerpt from this link he posted: Molybdenum-sulfur compounds in lubrication

 

[Biggcrisp]

Grease monkey perspective.

Molybdenum is used to lube two moving metal parts in contact under pressure.
.75% is good. 1% is better. 3% is best.

lithium is used to repel moisture.

chassis grease NLGL no. 2 is a good general purpose grease.

My experience has been to lube fittings regularly in order to avoid having the grease zerk corrode. If the fitting corrodes the part will obviously fail from lack of lube. Keep the parts lubed and you have a good chance of them lasting their design life hours. "Grease the machine" favorite words to live by.

I have no data to reference.

This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

 

[1000MPH]

If you're really this interested in grease I suggest going over to the Bob is the oil guy website and search 4runner, grease. Moly. There's a pretty entertaining thread with a couple guys going at it a bit.

 

[ron in sc]

I think in the 2nd post in the thread, the guy talks about different percentages of moly for different applications? It's easy to miss because the values in the chart didn't cut and paste over too well, so in case you are having trouble seeing it, it's basically an excerpt from this link he posted: Molybdenum-sulfur compounds in lubrication

Thanks, that is where theMolybdenum-Sulfur Compounds in Lubrication
are discussed.

For the % of moly in the three examples I mentioned I have been told as follows by the respective engineering depts. Mobile XHP 222 special has .75%, Shell Gadus S1V160D2 has 1% and Mystic JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease with 3% Moly, NGLI no.2 has 3%.

 

[ron in sc]

After a rather thorough review including bob is the oil guys forum I have come to the conclusion, at least for me, that this is an exercise in futility.

Since I have an extended warranty on my vehicle I am going to follow the instructions in my owners manual. Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2 for the Spiders and Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2 for the Slide Yokes.

This way if I have a driveshaft issue I will not have to listen to any whining about not following the manuf. specifications.

 

[eddiebx]

After a rather thorough review including bob is the oil guys forum I have come to the conclusion, at least for me, that this is an exercise in futility.

Since I have an extended warranty on my vehicle I am going to follow the instructions in my owners manual. Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2 for the Spiders and Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2 for the Slide Yokes.

This way if I have a driveshaft issue I will not have to listen to any whining about not following the manuf. specifications.

Lol yeah I agree, you're probably not going to find much solid advice when you are trying to get this deep into the details. Sorry about mis-reading the previous article I linked you too, I skimmed it too quickly and thought it was the % of moly suspended in the grease, and didn't realize it was actually talking about the MO concentration.

If your main concern is proper routine maintenance compliance for the extended warranty, I'd say you are right on the money about getting two separate grease guns and just using the proper grease at each service point. Small price to pay for peace of mind

 

[1000MPH]

I bought both types of grease: The Valvoline (moly) and some M1 (Pink Grease!, non moly) but stopped short of being a guy with 2 grease guns. I ended up just using the M1 on everything so far. Now you guys are gonna shame me into buying a second gun.
Valvoline VV985 SynPower Synthetic Grease (for all US, European and Japanese Vehicles), Single Pack : Amazon.com : Automotive
Grease by MOBIL - Greases by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies
Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose and Rigid Pipe : Amazon.com : Automotive

BTW, with coupons and free shipping offers, zorotools.com has some pretty good prices. Got my Delvac diff lube there, too.

 

[ron in sc]

I bought both types of grease and two guns, the guns were about $8.00 each at Harbor Frieght.

Lubed all the spider joints, no problem telling when you have enough grease.

Not the same with the slider yoke joints. The seal seems so tight that to much grease will blow it out, or maybe even push driveshaft in to far speculation on my part.

I put in a little more than 1/4 teaspoon in each yoke zerk, that about 4 to 5 pump with little gun. Test drove and no problems.

I'd think yoke needs more grease but do not know how much more.

Will blow seal if I add more or will it just seep out around the very tight seal?

 

[Okki]

I've been using Lucas Oil Red N' Tacky #2
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/MSDS10005_RedNTacky.pdf

So far so good... Although I may look into Royal Purple NGLI no.2 once my current 2 cartridges run out.

Okki

 

[Whiplash Willy]

I bought both types of grease and two guns, the guns were about $8.00 each at Harbor Frieght.

Lubed all the spider joints, no problem telling when you have enough grease.

Not the same with the slider yoke joints. The seal seems so tight that to much grease will blow it out, or maybe even push driveshaft in to far speculation on my part.

I put in a little more than 1/4 teaspoon in each yoke zerk, that about 4 to 5 pump with little gun. Test drove and no problems.

I'd think yoke needs more grease but do not know how much more.

Will blow seal if I add more or will it just seep out around the very tight seal?

From the many driveshaft grease threads I have read, I hear if you put too much grease in the slide yoke, it can over extend, and put wear on other parts of your drivetrain. Some people pump the slide yoke until they see it start to move, then they unscrew the zerk to let the excess pressure or grease out. Others just give it a few pumps every 10-15k.

I think to be safe you should be careful when greasing the slide yoke, and if you do see it starting to extend make sure to relieve the pressure by undoing the zerk. Ultimately, i think it is better to have a under-greased driveshaft, then an over greased one that will put additional stress on more expensive parts your drivetrain. A new drive shaft is only about $300, and can be easily replaced.

Also, if you are to use only 1 type, it is bad to use moly in both, as it is bad for the spider gears. I did ask Amsoil what they would recommend if I only use one grease for the spiders and slide yoke, and they said this was the one to use:

AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2

However, I think I am going to bite the bullit and get another Lincoln 1134 grease gun so I can use both types of grease for peace of mind. I have messed with cheaper grease guns, and they dont' work well, or last very long, especially with the thicker moly grease. With the money I have spent on cheap guns I have had to throw away, I could have gotten a Lincon, which would have lasted, been easier to use, and worked better.

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1134-Pistol-Grease/dp/B0002NYDZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390237174&sr=8-1&keywords=lincoln+1134

Ill be using this for spiders:
AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2

And this for the Slide Yoke:
AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2

I have also determined it futile to search for the answer of what to use on bobistheoilguy or other forums. There are so many people saying that they use "X" method and have been fine for 100k +/- miles. Some are adamant that it does matter, and others say it doesn't

 

[ron in sc]

Attached is photo yellow arrow shows the edge of the seal to which I make reference. You can see where the paint is worn off so it much he moving.

 

[Okki]

Attached is photo yellow arrow shows the edge of the seal to which I make reference. You can see where the paint is worn off so it much he moving.

When I did mine, it just started coming our around the zerk fitting (i.e. your bottom circle); not around the "slide area" of the drive shaft (arrow).

I was able to get quite a bit in when I did mine. (it had spent a good bit of time in the water before I regreased everything.)

Okki

 

[1engineer]

I have a question: If it is futile to get a definitive answer on a respected lubrication and fluids site such as Bobistheoilguy, why would you guys think you could find a definitive answer here?
With age I have learned that ignorance and stupidity trumps knowledge, logic and fact every single time. We do have a bunch of intelligent people who post here but we also have some that continue to perpetuate rumors and misinformation like it is their job. What's even worse is that some new guy believes it because "They have heard it someplace before."
Ron, you know what grease is recommended. If you really want to get technical then go here The Official STLE Web Site | Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers and spend a little money to learn everything you want to know about moly. While your questions are excellent, all you will get at general websites like this are opinion and hearsay. I know a few guys that are lubrication engineers and they really know their stuff.


Edit: That site has a lot of good articles without a paywall such as http://www.stle.org/assets/document...=3d8+3d9+3e0+&hc=146&req=Molybdenum+disulfide so if you want the real information and not just a bunch of opinion go there and become a grease expert!

 

[ron in sc]

I have a question: If it is futile to get a definitive answer on a respected lubrication and fluids site such as Bobistheoilguy, why would you guys think you could find a definitive answer here?
With age I have learned that ignorance and stupidity trumps knowledge, logic and fact every single time. We do have a bunch of intelligent people who post here but we also have some that continue to perpetuate rumors and misinformation like it is their job. What's even worse is that some new guy believes it because "They have heard it someplace before."
Ron, you know what grease is recommended. If you really want to get technical then go here The Official STLE Web Site | Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers and spend a little money to learn everything you want to know about moly. While your questions are excellent, all you will get at general websites like this are opinion and hearsay. I know a few guys that are lubrication engineers and they really know their stuff.


Edit: That site has a lot of good articles without a paywall such as http://www.stle.org/assets/document...=3d8+3d9+3e0+&hc=146&req=Molybdenum+disulfide so if you want the real information and not just a bunch of opinion go there and become a grease expert!

I can answer your question easily. I am eternally optimistic and often at the same time eternally unrealistic. In this case my expectations can best be described as unrealistic and an adventure in the land futility. :frusty:

I've complete my little project. I used Valvoline product for the spiders and the Smitty product for the slide yokes.

http://www.smittysinc.net/images/products/files/169_Super_S_Grease_Super_Moly_EP2.pdf

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/hd_cerulean_grease.pdf

 

[adam2562]

i use Lucas Red & Tacky #2 for all of them.. but how many zerk fitting are there? i only found 3.. beginning of drive-shaft middle then end

 

[ron in sc]

Mine has total of 6.

 

[Okki]

Mine has total of 6.

^^^ Ron beat me to it. there are some in front of the transfer case (?), and from the transmission back. a couple places you have 2 zerk fittings in the same area. you may need to rotate the driveshaft to see them.

Okki