driving through water

M

motion732

New member
hey guys

i was late for work and the road i take was closed 'due to flooding'. i drove up and saw a bunch of cars thinking about going for it, but then they ended up turning around. it was probably a 70ft stretch through what looked to be knee high water (ended up being waist high). i made it through, but after, teh truck felt funny. the brakes were making some terrible grunt and the windows started to fog. it's parked in the train station parking lot, hopefully drying off (even though it's pouring in the north east).

is this something to be concerned about? i mean, it's serious truck (06 sport) and it should be able to handle something like this. right?
 
Register to hide this ad
motion732 said:
(ended up being waist high).
Click to expand...
You might want to specifiy how high your waist is!? With me that would be about 3ft, so yeah it would probably cause some damage. Water in diffs, possible in transfer case and transmission, especially if everything was warmed up to normal operating temp.
 
Last edited:
the brakes shouldn't be anything to worry about, just grunting and squeeling cuz they were still wet. Not sure about the foggy windows, maybe you just needed the defroster on. the two things to be worried about in something that deep would be the rear diff and the air intake for the engine, which would be around waist height in the front. that likely would have killed you on the spot if it got in there though- or your air filter may have soaked some up and could use this parking lot time to dry out. might want to check the rear diff to see if it got any water in through the breather.
 
i mean, i saw a rav4 make it through (barely) and a an old gmc jimmy. i had to go. maybe i am exaggerating waist high. had to be over 2 ft though.

i figured if i were to hydrolock, it'd happen on the spot. a volkswagon was stuck 3/4 of the way through in probably knee high water.

no water came into the cabin which i thought was a good sign.

how do i check the diff?
 
You will have to drain the diff to see if there is water mixed in with the oil. If it has been sitting a while, the water might separeate out from the oil and be the first thing to drain out. Also, pull the tranny dipstick and make sure there is the fluid in transparent and not milky. You can check the engine air filter and see if it is dry too.

Rear diff breather is about 18" from the ground, about where the bottom of the door is. Transmission and t-case breathers are about 27" from the ground, air intake and front diff breather are around 34" I think (just over the wheel).
 
thanks for the help. my plan is to drive it to my parent's house later in the day when i get out of work, and let it dry in the garage overnight. then tomorrow, run those diagnostic tests...

any other input is welcome
 
motion732 said:
thanks for the help. my plan is to drive it to my parent's house later in the day when i get out of work, and let it dry in the garage overnight. then tomorrow, run those diagnostic tests...

any other input is welcome
Click to expand...

It will not dry in a garage. Leave it outside if its not raining.
 
it's goign to be rainging probably until sunday. i'm gonna leave it there overnight so i can work on it tomorrow without getting drenched
 
motion732 said:
hey guys

i was late for work and the road i take was closed 'due to flooding'. i drove up and saw a bunch of cars thinking about going for it, but then they ended up turning around. it was probably a 70ft stretch through what looked to be knee high water (ended up being waist high). i made it through, but after, teh truck felt funny. the brakes were making some terrible grunt and the windows started to fog. it's parked in the train station parking lot, hopefully drying off (even though it's pouring in the north east).

is this something to be concerned about? i mean, it's serious truck (06 sport) and it should be able to handle something like this. right?
Click to expand...

What does road closed mean to you birds up north? Was this sign not in ENGLISH? If drying out don't make it better,good luck :biggrin2:
 
I drove through some water this last weekend myself while off-roading. Probably about 2 feet deep. Afterwards, the check engine light came on as well as the VSC TRAC, and VSC OFF. They are still on, and the engine idles rough, and stalls when I try to speed up. Is your check engine light on? Are you having any of the same symptoms as mine? My un-porfessional opinion seems to be something with the emissions, exhaust, etc...., on mine, or possibly got some water in the fuel line or filter. As it has dried out, it has gotten a little better, even though the lights are still on.
 
I believe the fjoding spec is 30". That means if you have stock tires the water would have to have the whole tire submersed (all but a 1/2" or so). That 30" value protects the engine inlet and axle, t-case and trans vents (allegedly). The rear axle vent design is a cheapo, suspect device IMHO. I would check the rear axle for sure. The rest should be ok provided you were going slow and didn't exceed 30". (Link in my sig for cheap, cool rear axle vent mod.) Semi unrelated but related all at the same time: This posting shows pictures of the for the engine intake so you can get an idea of where it is.

2 areas of concern for me with clean***, deep water are: 1) The CV's. The OE clamps are marginal at best. Filling the boots up with water will, in the end game, shorten the life of the joints dramatically. Kmvreter did an awesome post on how to rectify that. 2) The floor plugs. Under the carpet are a few rubber oval and round plugs that pop in/out. If one of them wasn't sealed properly or the bottom of the door leaked you could have soaked the carpet.


*** The work I would do after fjording salt water is far more extensive:ybrick:


Manhunter: I would check the air cleaner and MAF sensor. With your lift and 2ft that's unlikely but worth a check. I would also unplug, spay with electronic cleaner and replug the O2 sensors on the exhaust. If I got nowhere I would pull the code at the local Autozone, PepBoys etc. and then let them sell you an O2 sensor. I have seen more than one fixed with a cleaning of the connection and I have seen more than one fail when submerged especially if being driven hard at the time of being submerged. A very high exhaust temp (driving hard) and an attempt to be a U-boat Commander don't always mix.


Good luck!
:cheers:
 
Last edited:
CJ3Flyr said:
I believe the fjoding spec is 30". That means if you have stock tires the water would have to have the whole tire submersed (all but a 1/2" or so). That 30" value protects the engine inlet and axle, t-case and trans vents (allegedly). The rear axle vent design is a cheapo, suspect device IMHO. I would check the rear axle for sure. :cheers:
Click to expand...

To be more accurate CJ, it is 27.5". :D The technique of which you cross the water has a lot to do with the potential damages.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thai said:
To be more accurate CJ, it is 27.5". :D The technique of which you cross the water has a lot to do with the potential damages.
Click to expand...

Thanks for keeping me straight:D I remember reading that and a max angle spec of 40 or 42 degrees from somewhere. Do you know where that info is, some Prado brochure?
 
Last edited:
I been crossing little streams in mountains at least 1.5-2 feet deep without any problems on stock Limited. I know when a water starts coming over a top of your hood then you should be worried. And I recently changed oil in axles and it was little dirty but no signs of water at all
 
What do the guys do about the rear diff's who have the snorkels and try to go as deep as possible in the water? Do they have a mod for that?
 
Thanks for the advice Chris. I have narrowed down the possibilities to the MAF sensor or the 02 sensors. I looked at the MAF sensor, and it has a black baked look to it, so not sure if that means it needs cleaning or replaced. I have never dealt with the O2 sensors, so that will be new territory for me if it means cleaning and replacing on my own. Are they located on the cat converters or where?
 
manhunter said:
Thanks for the advice Chris. I have narrowed down the possibilities to the MAF sensor or the 02 sensors. I looked at the MAF sensor, and it has a black baked look to it, so not sure if that means it needs cleaning or replaced. I have never dealt with the O2 sensors, so that will be new territory for me if it means cleaning and replacing on my own. Are they located on the cat converters or where?
Click to expand...

Check your PM's
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 381 (members: 3, guests: 378)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,049
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top