96RedRunner
Senior Member
Yep Rosin core, you can get burnt if you don't read label on the tube in your hand cause shelf stockers don't pay attention/give a shiite at big box stores.
Drop-in headlight upgrade?
- Thread starter texadelphia
- Start date
texadelphia
New member
texadelphia
New member
Yeah, haven't soldered since one of my labs in college.
Pretty sure I got rosin core.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
TYC vs OE depends on what your after your situation is.
TYC upgrade mods in mind, bulb shroud not used drilling maybe cutting involved, high risk low loss. Glass and they fit seems to be why they're popular. Shroud tweaks are cheap.
OE What are you really getting ? new old stock I doubt it wouldn't want it that old anyway, likely it's new OE approved aftermarket that makes for several labels.
TYC upgrade mods in mind, bulb shroud not used drilling maybe cutting involved, high risk low loss. Glass and they fit seems to be why they're popular. Shroud tweaks are cheap.
OE What are you really getting ? new old stock I doubt it wouldn't want it that old anyway, likely it's new OE approved aftermarket that makes for several labels.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Drop-in upgrade harness tweak.
Since harness on the way been scoping the job I lied saying 3' wire would do it, ha.
Print shows body ground at R/S bucket, goes to Batt plus L/S bucket.
Plan is to run a 10ga wire from R/S bucket to L/S bucket to Batt, isolated ground clean power.
Since harness on the way been scoping the job I lied saying 3' wire would do it, ha.
Print shows body ground at R/S bucket, goes to Batt plus L/S bucket.
Plan is to run a 10ga wire from R/S bucket to L/S bucket to Batt, isolated ground clean power.
texadelphia
New member
Iron showed up today so I was practicing my wire splices. Does yours have to be cranked all the way up to melt solder? Mine has a scale from 1-5 on the dial but I have to turn it a quarter turn past 5 before it's hot enough. If I turn it down at all it won't melt the 60/40 let alone heat up the wire enough to flow solder. It kind of looks like it overheated while it was sitting the stand too. Half of the metal from the tip to the plastic looks like it's got a light layer of soot on it. I'm wondering if I got a faulty one.
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texadelphia
New member
OEM housings showed up today and they're excellent. Bulb shields are in the right place and everything. Looking forward to getting my rig back from the body shop so I can get them installed.
pluton
Senior Member
The above P/Ns are for the "Lens and Housing"
The below P/Ns (see screenshot) and prices are for total, complete new "headlamp assemblies"(everything including the bulb):
Attachments
pluton
Senior Member
If they're NOS and faded, yellowed, corroded, filled with dust...refund time.
If they're OE approved new/aftermarket, then fine...I'll get better lights than I had. If they're TYC with a different badge on them, then, yes...I will have overpaid, and proven the 'stupid' part of my 'rich and stupid' formulation from the earlier post.
texadelphia
New member
From my local dealer they're $204/piece plus $30 for shipping. I only bought the lens and reflector though since I'm going to mount them in my current frames to save some money and upgrade the bulbs.
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texadelphia
New member
Mine don't look like old stock. Definitely a step up in quality from the TYCs. I don't think the TYCs had the rubber vent hose on the back and the rubber bulb housing on the back was kind of chintzy.
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texadelphia
New member
My plan was to remove the terminals on the ground wires and splice those to one long 14 gauge wire running back to the negative battery terminal. Nothing in that harness is bigger than 14 gauge so I figured that would be sufficient.
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I bought a TYC to the passenger side (after reading your thread and other's views). I am already running 100/80W bulbs with stock wiring. I am very happy to report the passenger side light throws a LOT of light on the road now, a massive improvement!
The TYC light has 2 rubber vents in the back, those are not as long as OEM toyota but those are there. I saw it.
The TYC light has 2 rubber vents in the back, those are not as long as OEM toyota but those are there. I saw it.
texadelphia
New member
Cool. I didn't specifically look. I just didn't remember seeing them. Glad it worked out for you!
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Think about what your doing by doing this, your doubling the load on the single 14 ga wire. Ground sized for both loads in this case, you benefit by running this to R/S, circuit efficency Ohms Law what we after.
With your soldering iron and solder. Pic is blurry what size solder did you choose ? .035"-.045" dia. works best with that tip, chisel tip better for larger solder. Was tip tight in heat element where it screws in. New out of box could be a dud, check temp, who doesn't have an I/R thermometer now days with the WOO Flu, lol.
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shadow247
New member
I purchased a set of used lights from a member here. He shipped them to me in one of the OEM boxes he got. Order date was last year, so definitely not NOS. When I called my wholesale buddy @ Toyota of Richardson a year or 2 ago, he said they were still being produced and stocked regularly at the warehouse.
texadelphia
New member
Yeah, I was wondering about that. Guess I'll run each ground back to the battery individually.
Solder is 0.062 diameter. Tip is screwdriver tip. I think it's a dud with a loose connection. Iron went completely cold a few time despite being turned on. Ordered a nicer Weller model as a replacement.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Your choice I'd still go bigger 12-10 ga still a benefit.
This like wiring a Amp best power I can get, think it'll payoff powering the bulbs.
Going OCD or close on this Mod, No winter time blues.
Ground side all I can layout at the moment. A $25.00 plug n play harness could be coming, $25.00 of parts snip here snip there we'll see.
$25.00 down the drain.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I got my Amazon harness and the only thing I’m going to do to it is extend the grounds back to the battery. I’m going to mount the relays where the fog relay it mounted at the battery tray.
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texadelphia
New member
I guess I figured the power going to ground was essentially limited by the power going in through the single 14 gauge wire going to the positive terminal. Can't get out more than goes in right?
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