Ed_C
Senior Member
My passenger side TYC headlight's beam pattern is fine too, it's the driver side ones that have beam pattern issues.
Drop-in headlight upgrade?
- Thread starter texadelphia
- Start date
My passenger side TYC headlight's beam pattern is fine too, it's the driver side ones that have beam pattern issues.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
A given voltge over a given distance with a given wire size has a percent of voltage drop which effects amp draw.
There is a varible percentage range of acceptable voltage drop for a given load type and voltage DC AC
I'm aiming for .5%+- voltage drop since it is the headlights, ground is half the circuit harness is other.
Any electrical advantage is a good thing, https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hw8.../7707/9781284194531__53082.1584208230.jpg?c=2 Comes in handy
Will harness achieve that out of box we'll see.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Ahh, all these 4Runners with brighter headlights make me happy. Drive safely and confidently!
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Aim these brighter lights correctly in there somewhere.
The one I had Susquehanna Motorsports build me for my '99 Limited has a relay circuit for the foglights that's controlled by the factory stalk switch, and has actuation by the stock harness connector.
Only issue I've had with it is that if I have the driving lights turned on with the factory fog switch on, then shut the truck off, then something goofy goes on and the driving lights turn on and don't shut off with the rest of the lighting.
Also, the Hella 500 driving light does wonderful things in conjunction with properly-fed stock headlights. I haven't measured it, but I'm pretty sure I have like 3/4 of a mile's worth of visibility.
Malcolm99
Member
Just to add to this thread, I'm using the wire harness mentioned on the first page Amazon.com: H4 LED Headlight Wiring Harness [Negative Switched Conversion] [Fused] H4 Head Light Relay Harness Kit for 9003 H6054 H5054 H6054LL 6014 6052 6053 Subaru Toyota Head Lights: Automotive and all the wires in this harness are maybe 18ga with thick insulation, since I started to cut it up to add my own ring terminals and to extend the 2 negative chassi to the battery grounds using 14GA wire I took note. I think I might rebuild this harness for 14GA if I notice resistance but it should still be bigger gauge wire than the OEM setup. I also bought the Hella 100/80w 9003 as mentioned, so we'll see how this works with the Nov 98' LTD (99' model no auto light switch on stock but lights stay on until driver door is opened), DRL's unplugged near battery and Fog lights anytime mod). Will updated how it goes.
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texadelphia
New member
Damn, that's disappointing. I haven't cut into mine yet. Makes me want to return it and get one of the better ones that have been mentioned. Guess I could rewire it myself for cheaper. Good soldering practice I guess.
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Malcolm99
Member
I'm sure the most benificial thing is your getting direct power & ground from the battery on a shorter circuit to the 100w headlights and maybe using slightly bigger gauge wiring, I haven't cut up the OEM harness to say what gauge it is maybe 20ga, so this is probably perfectly gauged for the task but I only dable in auto electronics and house wiring, but the requirements add up even with small gauge wiring, but I'll see. I'd probably return it if I knew it was this gauge though, but to rebuild it 14ga wouldn't be hard with the left overs parts and cheaper than the better harnesses that list gauge size.
texadelphia
New member
I just took a look at the harness and the only wires marked are the ones that go to the original headlight plug to activate the relays which is 16 gauge. None of the other wires are marked which is shady. I bought a bunch of 14 gauge wire today and I'm probably going to replace all the wires and recycle the plugs and everything else. At least now I can customize all the lengths to my routing.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
16 gauge is more than enough to handle the increased draw because the wires are short. The power wire is 14 gauge. Remember, the stock wires are 18 gauge at 55W and have about 15 ft of wiring length that goes through the steering wheel stalk switch to boot. Of course, higher gauge wires give you even more security.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I really didn’t notice much improvement in my harness but my high beams seem brighter. I have two places deer jump infront and I can see around 1/2 mile with my high beams on and my fogs with this setup.
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Malcolm99
Member
I guess I must have got the only one that says 20GA on the harness that goes to the factory plug? Which is fine as those are really signal/switch wires now not carrying a load. I thought I bought the exact kit you did?. The other wires in the harness appear to be 20ga aswell and it has the 30amp fuse and holder?(which is to large to save this wiring harness) I guess I'll have to see, disappointing indeed and it was $46 CAD Amazon.ca so I dunno what's up and whether this will work with the 100/80w bulbs,...
At 13volts and 8.33amps (100watts) and 7ft wire it should be 14GA from everything I've read, which is over sized for safety but that's the advised wire gauge for that load and length, and a 20amp fuse would be safe to use maybe 25amp fuse max, looks like I've talked myself into rebuilding this harness using 14ga 25amp fuse instead of trying it and hoping the wires don't burn. 20ga can only handle 5amps at 4.5ft length, so they built me a harness designed to burn basically, the 30 amp fuse should reduce paint and metal from burning though I guess once the wire insulation melts...
H4 LED Headlight Wiring Harness [Negative Switched Conversion] [Fused] H4 Head Light Relay Harness Kit for 9003 H6054 H5054 H6054LL 6014 6052 6053 Subaru Toyota Head Lights, Lighting & Electrical - Amazon Canada
At 13volts and 8.33amps (100watts) and 7ft wire it should be 14GA from everything I've read, which is over sized for safety but that's the advised wire gauge for that load and length, and a 20amp fuse would be safe to use maybe 25amp fuse max, looks like I've talked myself into rebuilding this harness using 14ga 25amp fuse instead of trying it and hoping the wires don't burn. 20ga can only handle 5amps at 4.5ft length, so they built me a harness designed to burn basically, the 30 amp fuse should reduce paint and metal from burning though I guess once the wire insulation melts...
H4 LED Headlight Wiring Harness [Negative Switched Conversion] [Fused] H4 Head Light Relay Harness Kit for 9003 H6054 H5054 H6054LL 6014 6052 6053 Subaru Toyota Head Lights, Lighting & Electrical - Amazon Canada
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texadelphia
New member
No, you're right. I just took another look and the wires running to the factory harness are 20 gauge. I misspoke before.
I really need to refresh myself on wire size and load capacity but it sounds like this harness is designed to be one giant fuse...haha. The unmarked wires seem suspect and I hadn't even considered the fuse size. I'd definitely feel better rewiring with wire I trust.
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Malcolm99
Member
Ya the unmarked wires are 20GA with thick insulation,..so why they put a 30amp fuse in it is beyond me, it's actually a fire hazard in this configuration, especially if used with standard or 100w bulbs, the only thing I can think is they planned for this to be used with low wattage LED lights, but again why a 30amp fuse that is WAY oversized for this gauge wiring is beyond me. Even the main supply wire is 20ga., would 16ga work, yes, should be border line safe with a 20amp fuse, but ideally it should be 14ga +, and 16ga for (-) is sufficient, and the short 20ga wires to headlight plug to relays for signal/switching the relays are fine as there is no load on these wires anymore and can be left as they are.
I'll be sending my complaints to the seller, not that they know or care what's right or wrong I'm sure since a 20ga wire has a 30amp fuse:/ sad really.
I'll be sending my complaints to the seller, not that they know or care what's right or wrong I'm sure since a 20ga wire has a 30amp fuse:/ sad really.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Received my $25 bag of parts I can live with that.
texadelphia
New member
Yeah, I'm kind of going back and forth on returning this vs rewiring it. I spent like $45 on wire and connectors, plus $20 for the harness. I could return it all and just spend $120 on something that's built right with better relays or just hack this together myself. Maybe I'll throw this cheap one in my Corolla running stock bulbs and buy a better one for the Runner. Decisions, decisions.
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