19963.4lsr5
New member
This is the product @%1; linked us too. It was plug and play
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Drop-in headlight upgrade?
- Thread starter texadelphia
- Start date
texadelphia
New member
Yep. That's the one that claims to use 14 ga wire that's actually 18 ga with thick insulation. It probably works fine but could be a meltdown/fire risk.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Not saying harness is good or bad deal, to each their own.
Resistence checks of Relay coils contacts bases, 3 prong connectors Ohm'ed out as good as what you get at autoparts store. I'll tweak the rest.
Resistence checks of Relay coils contacts bases, 3 prong connectors Ohm'ed out as good as what you get at autoparts store. I'll tweak the rest.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Seeing other's responses I wonder if this particular product's quality has degraded since I bought mine a year ago. My wires are stout and work fantastic but obviously the ones that were shipped out recently are less than desirable. I've seen this happen with Amazon items before where all of a sudden their quality goes to pieces.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I’m happy with mine. At the minimum I spent 19 dollars to have a basis to make it better. Prewired relay bases from napa are something like 25 dollars.
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texadelphia
New member
Anyone know if a 97 without DRLs or fog lamps is ground-switched or power-switched? Talking to headlight services about getting a harness and he needs to know. He gave me a way to test it but my rig is in the body shop right now.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
You sure you want to go with a vender that doesn't know this.
When your selling this, 1995-2002 Toyota 4Runner Premium-Plus Harness (NOT for DRL or factory fog lamp equiped vehicles)
How could you not know Doesn't inspire confidence with design based on a 98 Model.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Good point. Strand count, strand size, strand composition way to tell, jacket stripped copper in scrap pile too late.
texadelphia
New member
That's a valid point. I found a wiring diagram that's making me question if powering the bulbs directly from the battery will really make a difference. Seems like the power is already coming straight from the battery. Guess I'll check the voltage drop once it's out of the shop.
This seems to indicate that once the relay is activated power goes from the battery, through the headlight relay, and to the bulbs. The headlight relay is in the fuse/relay box under the hood so I can't imagine installing a harness that connects straight to the battery is going to make much difference in terms of the voltage being delivered to the headlights. But I had to take circuits twice in college. Haha.
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Malcolm99
Member
I would agree except the factory wiring is 18AWG, so not up to a 100w bulb requirement.
And my DRL's are unplugged and fogs wired anytime, but again I guess I'll see. And everything in the Toyota is ground switched afaik
And just so everyone knows I'm not smoking to much electric lettuce, here is a pic of the main supply wire supplied in this harness beside a 14AWG, and yes the strands are thinner and the count lower making this mAyBe 18AWG but I still think its 20AWG. I will say the relays are nice and have been weather proofed which is hard to find.
Sorry for the gigantic pic, no clue how to resize this.
And I've been back and forth with Amazon/Townsgate Market about this and they just keep dragging there feet asking dumb questions or responding your order has been delivered..
And my DRL's are unplugged and fogs wired anytime, but again I guess I'll see. And everything in the Toyota is ground switched afaik
And just so everyone knows I'm not smoking to much electric lettuce, here is a pic of the main supply wire supplied in this harness beside a 14AWG, and yes the strands are thinner and the count lower making this mAyBe 18AWG but I still think its 20AWG. I will say the relays are nice and have been weather proofed which is hard to find.
Sorry for the gigantic pic, no clue how to resize this.
And I've been back and forth with Amazon/Townsgate Market about this and they just keep dragging there feet asking dumb questions or responding your order has been delivered..
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texadelphia
New member
Wow. That supply wire is bonkers.
Point taken about the stock wire not being up to the task of 100W bulbs. I guess from that standpoint it makes sense to run power on an independent, higher gauge harness. Just seems kind of goofy to have a daisy chain of relays but whatever works. I just returned all the wire I bought so I guess I'm back to ordering a good harness from one of the aforementioned vendors.
Malcolm99
Member
I just rebuilt mine in about an hour using new connectors, ring terminals, 14awg, weather proof shrink tubing and a bit of solder on every connection including 30amp to 87a power jumper wire, I left the 3 signal 20ga wires that plug into the headlight harness and go to the relays as my math says these should carry no load. I might add that the shrink tubing made all the h4 and relay connections solid unlike the wiggly ones that where there. Quicker to fix it than to write and read responses from the Amazon/seller.
texadelphia
New member
Nice work.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I ran these before changing to the ones I have now: Amazon.com: Philips 9003 X-tremeVision Upgrade Headlight Bulb (Pack of 2): Automotive. They are brighter because they are slightly higher wattage than average bulbs, not some marketing hype or blue light nonsense.
The GE Nighthawk headlights are also good if you can find the higher wattage bulbs. Can't seem to find them right now.
Malcolm99
Member
After rewiring this harness with actual 14ga wire everything works as it should on my 99' LTD with Hella 80/100w bulbs, note if rewiring a harness the spade connectors for the H4 bulbs are larger than normal spade connectors and hard to find for 14ga applications, after finished they do give off lots of extra light and heat, and the ceramic plugs get very hot, so upgrading just bulbs to 80/100w with the OEM plastic H4 connector would not be advisable, my early 99' LTD (Nov 98) has auto lights that shut off when you open the drivers door even when you leave the lights in the on position (no auto position on lighting stock like later 99's), it has the DRL's unplugged by battery and the Fogs are 100w bulbs wired for anytime use so they even flash when you lock/unlock it with the FOB and the fogs stay on with hi beams, so quite happy as my lights seems twice a bright now!. Thanks for everyones advice!.
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pluton
Senior Member
I bought these exact bulbs, from this seller, a few months ago, and while the package said 67/60W, the bulbs inside were regular 60/55W bulbs, so labelled on the bulb. Package *looked* authentic. This seller sold me ---knowingly or unknowingly--- fraudulently labelled merchandise. I called them about it and the item mysteriously become unavailable shortly after and they issued one of those 'Don't bother sending it back" refunds. I had the actual 67/60W bulbs a few years ago and they were excellent. I'd buy them now, but from where???
beklemmung
New member
Did you end up getting a harness from Susquehanna? I'm in the same situation as you: a 97 SR5 without DRLs or fog lamps. I got the 99+ TYC complete headlights from Rockauto and higher wattage bulbs, but like others here, the driver's side is bad. I'll need to either try to fix it with a screwdriver like others here have mentioned, or just keep using my old OEM headlights, but either way I think I need to get a harness in order to see an improvement with higher wattage bulbs.
texadelphia
New member
I can't get Susquehanna to return any of my emails about which harness I need. Just got my car back from the body shop yesterday so I'll probably start trying to figure this out now. I'll report back with any findings.
