Dropping the gas tank

T4Rscott

New member
Can some tell if there is a good write-up for dropping the tank in a 3rd gen? 99 specifically.

Thanks, Scott
 
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I'm not sure offhand if there is a writeup out there, but I had to drop my gas tank a few weeks ago to convert from the ABS harness to the ABS+locker harness. Here is a quick summary. I only lowered the tank 6 inches and didn't disconnect the fuel lines so you'll have to figure that part out.

1. If you are going to completely disconnect the tank first depressurize the fuel system. One way to do this is to pull the fuel pump fuse and then try to start the truck, it should stall out.

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3. Unbolt the bottom of the rear seat on the driver's side and fold back the carpet. Underneath you'll see an access panel held in place by three screws remove this. Under the panel is the power connector for the fuel pump, disconnect it.

4. Remove the gas tank skid plate. On the front of the plate there are three bolts, remove the outer two but leave the center one in place since it holds up the gas tank. There are two more bolts near the rear axle.

5. Gas is heavy and you'll definitely need something to support the tank. I put a piece of plywood on top of my floor jack to spread out the load and then raised the jack under the gas tank to support it.

6. The gas tank is held up by the one bolt at the front and a strap at the back. Remove the front bolt, and then unbolt the driver's side of the strap. The other side of the strap is held in place by a pin, remove the cotter pin and then slide the pin out. Remove the strap. At this point the tank is free from the vehicle.

7. Disconnect the filler line and the fuel lines. I didn't have to go this far, so I can only offer some pointers. If you lower the tank on the jack about 6" you can look in the access hole beneath the seat and see how the hoses are hooked up. The filler hose exits the rear of the tank. The fuel lines leave the pump and head forward towards the engine. From what I saw it looks like you would disconnect the fuel lines from above and should be able to disconnect the filler line from below.

Hope this helps, good luck.

- Matt
 
I'm not sure offhand if there is a writeup out there, but I had to drop my gas tank a few weeks ago to convert from the ABS harness to the ABS+locker harness. Here is a quick summary. I only lowered the tank 6 inches and didn't disconnect the fuel lines so you'll have to figure that part out.

1. If you are going to completely disconnect the tank first depressurize the fuel system. One way to do this is to pull the fuel pump fuse and then try to start the truck, it should stall out.

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3. Unbolt the bottom of the rear seat on the driver's side and fold back the carpet. Underneath you'll see an access panel held in place by three screws remove this. Under the panel is the power connector for the fuel pump, disconnect it.

4. Remove the gas tank skid plate. On the front of the plate there are three bolts, remove the outer two but leave the center one in place since it holds up the gas tank. There are two more bolts near the rear axle.

5. Gas is heavy and you'll definitely need something to support the tank. I put a piece of plywood on top of my floor jack to spread out the load and then raised the jack under the gas tank to support it.

6. The gas tank is held up by the one bolt at the front and a strap at the back. Remove the front bolt, and then unbolt the driver's side of the strap. The other side of the strap is held in place by a pin, remove the cotter pin and then slide the pin out. Remove the strap. At this point the tank is free from the vehicle.

7. Disconnect the filler line and the fuel lines. I didn't have to go this far, so I can only offer some pointers. If you lower the tank on the jack about 6" you can look in the access hole beneath the seat and see how the hoses are hooked up. The filler hose exits the rear of the tank. The fuel lines leave the pump and head forward towards the engine. From what I saw it looks like you would disconnect the fuel lines from above and should be able to disconnect the filler line from below.

Hope this helps, good luck.

- Matt

That has to be one of the best how to posts with out pictures.
 
Sorry for resurrecting this extinct thread, but it seemed like a good starting point for my own adventures in tank dropping on a 97 V6.

I've not seen any way to empty the fuel. Fortunately there are only a couple gallons in mine but the fuel pump isn't pumping so I can't get it out that way.

Regarding #7, the 3 fuiel lines can be disconnected at right front side of the tank. There are no connections above the tank on mine. They can also be disconnected a little in front of the tank but I think closer to the source is better because then you've got shorter lines flopping around. The filler and vent tube are mounted with one bolt behind an access panel in the rear wheel well. I don't think there is anything else holding them but I'll find out.

My question here, is the skid plate really a separate piece from the tank, and does it drop out with the tank? or is it 2 steps, first the skid plate then the tank? Mine has the 3 bolts in front (which mount it to a bracket that is bolted to the cross-frame), and 3 "strap" mounts (if you can call them that)-left front and rear, and right rear.

I'm not sure offhand if there is a writeup out there, but I had to drop my gas tank a few weeks ago to convert from the ABS harness to the ABS+locker harness. Here is a quick summary. I only lowered the tank 6 inches and didn't disconnect the fuel lines so you'll have to figure that part out.

1. If you are going to completely disconnect the tank first depressurize the fuel system. One way to do this is to pull the fuel pump fuse and then try to start the truck, it should stall out.

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3. Unbolt the bottom of the rear seat on the driver's side and fold back the carpet. Underneath you'll see an access panel held in place by three screws remove this. Under the panel is the power connector for the fuel pump, disconnect it.

4. Remove the gas tank skid plate. On the front of the plate there are three bolts, remove the outer two but leave the center one in place since it holds up the gas tank. There are two more bolts near the rear axle.

5. Gas is heavy and you'll definitely need something to support the tank. I put a piece of plywood on top of my floor jack to spread out the load and then raised the jack under the gas tank to support it.

6. The gas tank is held up by the one bolt at the front and a strap at the back. Remove the front bolt, and then unbolt the driver's side of the strap. The other side of the strap is held in place by a pin, remove the cotter pin and then slide the pin out. Remove the strap. At this point the tank is free from the vehicle.

7. Disconnect the filler line and the fuel lines. I didn't have to go this far, so I can only offer some pointers. If you lower the tank on the jack about 6" you can look in the access hole beneath the seat and see how the hoses are hooked up. The filler hose exits the rear of the tank. The fuel lines leave the pump and head forward towards the engine. From what I saw it looks like you would disconnect the fuel lines from above and should be able to disconnect the filler line from below.

Hope this helps, good luck.

- Matt
 
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Sorry for resurrecting this extinct thread, but it seemed like a good starting point for my own adventures in tank dropping on a 97 V6.

I've not seen any way to empty the fuel. Fortunately there are only a couple gallons in mine but the fuel pump isn't pumping so I can't get it out that way.

Regarding #7, the lines can be disconnected at right front side of the tank. There are no connections above the tank on mine. They can also be disconnected a little in front of the tank but I think closer to the source is better because then you've got shorter lines flopping around.

My question here, is the skid plate really a separate piece from the tank, and does it drop out with the tank? or is it 2 steps, first the skid plate then the tank? Mine has the 3 bolts in front (which mount it to a bracket that is bolted to the cross-frame), and several strap mounts.

Yes, the skid plate is separate. Drop the skid. You have the fuel pump harness on top of the tank as well as the filler tube and the fuel lines from the pump, you'll need to go through the panel under the rear seat to disconnect them. Put a floor jack under the tank and unbolt it... lower it very slowly. Basically repeating the above post, but that's exactly how it was on my 96 when I dropped my tank to replace the sending unit.
 
Yea, what downpour said. And label the fuel lines with a piece of masking tape or something when you lower it is what I did. I dropped my gas tank three times in a month because I had dented it in and it kept having issues.
 
Here's a picture of the skidplate showing the front mounting bolts. As you can see there are tabs for the two outside bolts, but the middle bolt goes in a gap on the skidplate and holds the tank in place. When you drop the skid leave the middle bolt in place and the tank straps attached until after you get the skid plate removed, then you can drop the tank.

IMG_2925.jpg


- Matt
 
Yes. That's exactly what mine looks like. Now I understand. I hope those few gallons of gas won't be a problem. I've got a brand new floor jack and will use a piece of plywood to support it. Once I get it off I can dump the gas before putting the tank back in. Other than that it looks like a fairly simple job (famous last words)



Here's a picture of the skidplate showing the front mounting bolts. As you can see there are tabs for the two outside bolts, but the middle bolt goes in a gap on the skidplate and holds the tank in place. When you drop the skid leave the middle bolt in place and the tank straps attached until after you get the skid plate removed, then you can drop the tank.

IMG_2925.jpg


- Matt
 
Gas weighs a bit over 6lb per gallon so if you have a few gallons in there it's not a big deal. I lowered mine with 1/2 a tank of gas using a jack and a piece of wood to spread the weight and it wasn't a problem, you just need to make sure you keep the tank from falling off the jack.

- Matt
 
This is so stupid. Why didn't they just make the access panel a few inches larger so you could lift the pump out from above without removing the tank? Most of this isn't difficult, but getting at the vent pipe is a PIA. And it seems totally unnecessary. I'm looking for a good reason not to just cut a larger access panel and save myself the hassle of ever doing this again
 
This is so stupid. Why didn't they just make the access panel a few inches larger so you could lift the pump out from above without removing the tank? Most of this isn't difficult, but getting at the vent pipe is a PIA. And it seems totally unnecessary. I'm looking for a good reason not to just cut a larger access panel and save myself the hassle of ever doing this again

You'd have to cut a pretty decent size hole and then be able to seal it. Especially changing the sending unit as well, you'd need a lot of wiggle room to get the old one out and the new one in. How often are you really dropping your gas tank? Not even worth the time IMO.
 
This is so stupid. Why didn't they just make the access panel a few inches larger so you could lift the pump out from above without removing the tank? Most of this isn't difficult, but getting at the vent pipe is a PIA. And it seems totally unnecessary. I'm looking for a good reason not to just cut a larger access panel and save myself the hassle of ever doing this again

I don't understand it either. Landcruisers made from 91-97 have the access panel large enough to remove the fuel pump.
 
I don't really intend to try, but this is ridiculous. I finally cut the vent hose because I couldnt get it off the pipe in back of the tank, but there is another section of pipe between there and the tank that is now hung up and I can't get at it. I can't get the $#@%!!! hose off where it attached to the tank in front because I have to reach through the mother%$#@!!!! access hole which my arm barely fits in, and then I can't $#%#@!!!!! see what I'm doing so the tank is basically off but hanging. I'm going to have to %$#%$#@!!! cut the front $%#@! hose too in order to get it off, while the access hole rips the skin off my arm. This 20 minute job has taken 2 hours and I'm not done yet.

Other than that, all is well. :-)
 
Yea, I got the mother%$#@! off! The bloody vent pipe is %$#@! mounted to the chassis or frame above the tank (WTF!!!), no wonder it hung up! I guess you're supposed to disconnect it through the access hatch, but unless you have tiny arms made of rubber that's pretty nigh impossible. I had to cut the front hose too, from below, once it was hanging.

Now, whats the procedure for changing the pump? It looks straightforward but I don't want to assume anything and this whole pump-float mechanism looks delicate.


I don't really intend to try, but this is ridiculous. I finally cut the vent hose because I couldnt get it off the pipe in back of the tank, but there is another section of pipe between there and the tank that is now hung up and I can't get at it. I can't get the $#@%!!! hose off where it attached to the tank in front because I have to reach through the mother%$#@!!!! access hole which my arm barely fits in, and then I can't $#%#@!!!!! see what I'm doing so the tank is basically off but hanging. I'm going to have to %$#%$#@!!! cut the front $%#@! hose too in order to get it off, while the access hole rips the skin off my arm. This 20 minute job has taken 2 hours and I'm not done yet.

Other than that, all is well. :-)
 
Replacing my 2000 4runner Gas Tank

Alright so my truck has quiet a bit of rust and a hole has eaten into the tank I bought a new tank but I want to know the best way to go about removing the old one and installing the new one.
 
thread revival, im gonna try and take pics of this process the whole way through and show what and where to remove ect. -i have to drop my tank to replace the pump. im planning on dropping the tank and using the lil'skip tank skid as the support for it. im hoping to do this friday. for those of you who have done this, would you recommend getting a new tank seal around the port on the tank and how about new vent hoses or filler hoses? im just thinking that my truck is 19 years old and it might be a bit stubborn. im just glad im not gonna have to worry about rust.

-im also gonna try to lengthen the bracket for the fuel pump so my pickup will be at the bottom of the tank so i can get all my fuel, and not leave the last 1-2gal sitting in the tank, thus hopefully extending my usable range.
 
I just did this and it was a total pain in the ass.

Two hoses at the front, easy.

Fuel line hose with the compression nut, total MFer.

Fill pipe, easy although awkward to reach clamp screw.

Vent hose... the clamps are on facing away from any access point. Impossible to reach. So I detatched the one I could reach next to the fill hose assuming it could be bent back to clear the frame. Start lowering and it gets hung up... metal vent pipe section is bolted to chassis like someone said. Try to unbolt it, rusted and no room. So I cut the vent hose and hopefully can find a replacement tomorrow.

Start lowering tank again... nope I forgot the ABS wires. Found the hidden terminal clip thingy and disconnected. Terminal looked discolored and melted?? Looked closer and appeared to be oozing electrical grease.

Start lowering again... nope. Theres a wire clip on top of the tank. I couldnt reach to unclip it, so had to lower tank a few inches and reach from underneath and blindly unravel the electrical tape holding the wires to the clip.

Finally got the tank down. Used straps across both ends and a old bread board on top of a floor jack. It wasnt that heavy even with a few gallons in it.

If one of the vent hose clamps had been rotated 180 degrees it would have been soooo much easier.
 
How does the connector to the vent come off? It looks like you need to squeeze it with some pliers and pull it off.
 
Yeah just squeeze with pliers and move the clamp back then give the hose a good twist with your hand and it will pop loose and you can slide it off. Or if its really stuck maybe a hose pick or radiator hose pliers. I couldnt reach with pliers so cut it and then I couldnt find anywhere in town that keeps metric hose, and the stuff they had didnt fit nice, so ended up paying $14 for a 6" piece of hose at the dealer.
 
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