Drum Brakes Size question

[swampy_swimmer]

Unless there are serious grooves in the drums, just get them turned. Make sure and try and knock as much rust off the inside of the face that attaches to the axle.

Raybestos hold down springs, cylinders, and the like is what we used on my friend’s brothers drums in 2009. The only thing I recommended we keep OEM are the shoes and drums. And try and reuse the OEM bleeder screws.

Do you own a right angle grinder and compressor? It would help.

Presoak the hard line connectors to the existing cylinders before trying to remove them carefully. Also the bell cracks, which I imagine are seized.

Make sure the star adjuster turns freely before putting it all back together.

Invest in at least one can of Fluid Film for when you are done.

Thanks.
One of the drums is grooved, but hope not too serious. I replaced bleeder screws with SS Speedbleeders few years ago. I plan on buying new star adjusters as mine are seized completely, bell cranks, all of it. And yes, I PB Blasted the line connections before putting it all back together. Any decent alternatives to OEM shoes?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Thanks.
One of the drums is grooved, but hope not too serious. I replaced bleeder screws with SS Speedbleeders few years ago. I plan on buying new star adjusters as mine are seized completely, bell cranks, all of it. And yes, I PB Blasted the line connections before putting it all back together. Any decent alternatives to OEM shoes?

You could try Wagner PAB764 if the $$$$ is tight. OEM just fit much better.

I would lube the new star adjuster with never seize, along with the ears of the shoes that contact the backing plate.

 

[nissanh]

A brand new OEM rotor is $60 and drum is $112 at Camelback.

My experience with turning the drum/rotor is not good. I find pulsing when breaking, so I went with OEM and the pulsing went away.

FYI: don't mix up the left and right park brake mechanism, especially the adjuster (star wheel).

 

[nissanh]

try not to use anti-seize

You could try Wagner PAB764 if the $$$$ is tight. OEM just fit much better.

I would lube the new star adjuster with never seize, along with the ears of the shoes that contact the backing plate.

Try not to use anti-seize. I used the anti-seize on a Hilux rear brake drum adjuster wheel and within few months the grease got harden and the wheel didn't turn. Ended up using regular high-temp grease.

 

[swampy_swimmer]

A brand new OEM rotor is $60 and drum is $112 at Camelback.

My experience with turning the drum/rotor is not good. I find pulsing when breaking, so I went with OEM and the pulsing went away.

FYI: don't mix up the left and right park brake mechanism, especially the adjuster (star wheel).

I agree on the rotors. But for the drums, if they only do about 25% of the braking and you taking .5 mm off the surface of the OEM drum, would it really matter?

 

[LittleCaesar]

I agree on the rotors. But for the drums, if they only do about 25% of the braking and you taking .5 mm off the surface of the OEM drum, would it really matter?

No, not much but that is why getting drums turned not at a chain auto parts store but a regular tire shop is imperative. You want someone who knows what they are doing.

I should have been more specific with the anti seize, never had one failure using such:
http://https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Copper-Anti-Seize-Brake-Lube/?N=5002385+3291146065&rt=rud

Also use your parking brake at least once a week to keep it in good order once you get it fixed.

 

[Scramble]

Where the hell is Tim with his video recommendation! LOL
Watch Tim's video & it will show you all the places to grease. I use regular red axle grease & a small 1" chip brush to apply. Anti-Seize does get hard & is not as good as grease for high temps. Use OEM shoes & drums & the Raybestos spring kit.

I just did mine in May, here are the cleanest brakes in the NE! LOL I used rust converter & paint because they looked as horrible as yours.

 

[nevada]

I agree on the rotors. But for the drums, if they only do about 25% of the braking and you taking .5 mm off the surface of the OEM drum, would it really matter?

traditionally it was said to be a 70/30 split. but, I don't think that's right. I have driven a vehicle with ZERO(the MC was blocked off) rear brakes, and then immediately after with all brakes working properly. I can tell you, it stopped night and day difference with the rears working. id guess its closer to 60/40 assuming the rear brakes are working correctly, and adjusted properly.

the key is in the adjustment. it will ALSO effect how well your park brake works.

if the drums are thick enough, and you find someone competent to resurface them, they wont give you any problems.

 

[swampy_swimmer]

traditionally it was said to be a 70/30 split. but, I don't think that's right. I have driven a vehicle with ZERO(the MC was blocked off) rear brakes, and then immediately after with all brakes working properly. I can tell you, it stopped night and day difference with the rears working. id guess its closer to 60/40 assuming the rear brakes are working correctly, and adjusted properly.

the key is in the adjustment. it will ALSO effect how well your park brake works.

if the drums are thick enough, and you find someone competent to resurface them, they wont give you any problems.

Yeah, that's how I drive now. Without rears...

And it seems that I have another issue now. Nobody in my area turns drums/rotors anymore... Called bunch of shops, they all threw away their equipment for it. Go figure.

 

[TheDurk]

Yeah, that's how I drive now. Without rears...

And it seems that I have another issue now. Nobody in my area turns drums/rotors anymore... Called bunch of shops, they all threw away their equipment for it. Go figure.

Same here in NJ. Same with flywheels. P's me off.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Chalk it up to cheap Chinese crap.

 

[TheDurk]

So I opened my rear brakes past weekend for the first time of owning the truck.
A little horror…
Took some BFH and M8 bolts work, but they came off.
Everything is completely rusted, both cylinders are shot and fluid sprays out of them when pedal depressed. No wonder my pedal is so soft regardless of me bleeding it. Self-adjusting mechanisms are completely seized. Shoes rusted to the point that they don’t even compress back, I think rust was holding them.
I essentially have had no rear brakes for very long time.
The drums are rusted, but after I measured them they look like they still within the specked 295 mm. One drum has very rough inner surface, I suspect that brake was not working much longer than the other.
So, I’m thinking of replacing everything except the drums, I will ask a shop if they could turn them.

I know most would suggest OEM parts, but what is the second best option here? I’m talking about shoes, cylinders, springs and self-adjusters. Can you recommend a manufacturer?

I have a question about the bold. How do you see what happens when the pedal is depressed if the drum is still on? Because if you do that with the drum off, then sure as shootin you will push the pistons past limit and fluid will absolutely spray all over the place.

Just wondering....

 

[swampy_swimmer]

Chalk it up to cheap Chinese crap.

Yeah, I guess it’s time for that Centric drum kit.

 

[swampy_swimmer]

I have a question about the bold. How do you see what happens when the pedal is depressed if the drum is still on? Because if you do that with the drum off, then sure as shootin you will push the pistons past limit and fluid will absolutely spray all over the place.

Just wondering....

I didn’t think about that...

I checked it with drums off. But I think I should replace them anyway.

 

[TheDurk]

I didn’t think about that...

I checked it with drums off. But I think I should replace them anyway.

Okay. Just don't do that with the new ones.